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OK now I see it. the intake and the hat are chambered. makes sense.

So Jeremy, I am loosing my mind starring at the pic you posted (pic below) on how your turbo is actually able to send boost pressure to the engine. from what it looks like the turbo is just recirculating air in that chamber along with the air filter sitting on top. I'm sure I am missing...

I think AK is referring to this in the hole in the center of the intake. I circled it. it looks like a recessed area where things could get trapped in a hole!

I didn't see that until you said something. it does look like rocks or pop corn kernels!

While you are pushing on the plunger, look at the tail pipe and see if your seeing the same smoke like when you are accelerating.

On my 93, I had to rotate that part some to tighten it up so it would push on the lever sooner when getting into the throttle. this might be part of why mine smokes on acceleration too, but it's also a very worn out engine so.... LOL

Just be sure if you mess with the linkage and rotate that that's pictured in the second picture, mark it so you can still put it back where it was. there is a procedure on how to properly adjust it. I would need to look that up again, can't remember exactly how it's done.

Your screenshots are too small for us to read! even on a PC I can't zoom in to read.

do the opposite to test the CPS. unplug the optic sensor and try to start it. it should start and run but will take a little more crank time. should run smoothly as well. having one or the other disconnected will put the engine in limp mode and set a code for what's discoed.

They didn't for the 6.2 your correct. the HV pump is for the oil squirters.

Looks like it's doing very well!

Testing the optic is simple. unplug the CPS and try to start it. it will take longer to crank but should start up and run. for testing the stepper motor, you can rotate the stepper arm on the side of the pump all the way one direction or the other and then key on. it should move iirc...

compared to my 93, that is not much blow by! it also sound good for a blown head gasket. Rig looks good too.

it's a healthy one. I wouldn't worry about it.

if it runs smooth and there are no issues I would leave the timing adjustment alone. messing with that could lead to more issues. for blow by, it doesn't need to push the cap off, just have some. if you see smoke coming out of the fill tube. with the tubing that comes from the CDR...

I found another set that shows to work on stamped steel rockers. also shows a couple of comments about crimped type nuts tearing up threads where these helped. my question is mainly with the starting section of threads already buggered up taking a chance of the crimp lock nut trying to...

would a high volume pump be any benefit for this or is that overkill / might lead to oil pan clearance issues?

Now that the oil leaks are fixed, how often do you have to add oil? is there any blow by? if might be a slight amount of oil from valve seals, blow by or simply condensation in the exhaust.

I have always had good luck when I set the base timing to 3*. it could be a finicky PCM too. being a new build with tight tolerances there is really finite movements of the IP to get it there. if you have another truck or setup where you don't have to swap IP's out and just plug in that...

and here is another set I found that is half the cost.