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Timing first, then Be sure distributor cap and rotor show no signs of carbon. Blackish looking soot. Check plug wires with multimeter. Then try enrichening the fuel just a little.

Welcome to the forum

I can go out and look under the hood of my truck, take a picture, but, mine is a 2000 and not sure its the same.

The tag on the IP may be visible. If I cant see too good then snap a pic with the camera. The DB2 may have been cable controlled to the TH400 or possibly vacuum. Welcome to the forum Ballencd.

And with all six firing that too will show extra heat to the cooling system fan sensor.

I have seen crankshaft end play over the factory maximum specs when dismantling an engine for rebuild. Those all were with vehicles that had a manual shift transmission. Units with an auto shift transmission were almost always within specs. A couple were wore beyond the limits.

I gave my step son the oil deflectors that I had.

Unless the lifter is totally collapsed You are doing right. The tension on the pushrod is normal. Follow through with the rest of the procedure the after liquids is topped then fire up that engine. After being assured that all is well, then back off the rocker adjusters one at a time, back off...

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I have a spare that I can send to @Twisted Steel Performance Try it out and see if it runs with that. It is the pump that was on my engine when I bought the truck. It was throwing an advance code. Replaced the advance stepper motor and have not tried it since. The original stepper motor was...

I didnt know of a high volume pump for these engines. I thought that the high volume pumps was produced when they went to the piston cool squirt system.

Old timer mechanic told Me to thoroughly coat the coolant plugs with Aviation Permatex No.1 gasket sealer. He said that would keep the coolant off of them and keep them from rusting out, so I always did that. I mentioned the hot coolant rinsing off the sealer, he said it gets some but not all if...

Just runnum.

See niw with that information, when I decide to start setting Sono tubes then I now know what to look for on posts and bases.

See, simple solution to my complicated mind. 😖🫣😬😹😹😹😹

Yup, valves at 45* and seats at 46* is how we did them. A little memoracle jog from @ak diesel driver allowed the fog if old age forgetfulness to thin out a little.

On valve seats, reason for not having such a wide seat is so that it dies not allow for a lot of carbon to build up on the seats. I figure tgat after twenty thousand miles the seats most likely will be pounded to full width anyway. 🫣🤷😹

I do believe that there is other alternatives to rot free construction types of materials other than wood products. Might ask about those options too. If using some sort of PT to the concrete sonic tubes(I think is what they is called) then use the steel clips that sandwich two opposite sides of...

Imperative that there is a good ground from the rear door to a good grounding source. Hinges do not make for a good ground.

If there is a forward switch from the front seat then try that, if it still dont function then Check the fuse. If fuse is good, hook a jumper wire from a good clean ground on the door and a clean ground to the body or frame then check function of the window. If motor still does not function then...