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Nice looking motor. i wanted to paint mine CAT yellow with black valve covers ( just got her going :D) but i had no wheels and wanted it done ASAP, so painting didn't happen:nonod: also i want that burb!- with a diesel in it of course ):h yup thats how i do it. well a bunch of wobble...

the ATT has a larger diameter but sits higher up. its also shorter because of the separate exhaust elbow(removing this gives a lot more room to work :thumbsup:) all in all I'd say there's better clearance. However, i think its a moot point because i believe the reason the longer injectors wont...

before the rebuild i towed. Not an rv though. just enclosed cargo trailers from time, but one of those trips was a very trying mountain highway here in bc. long trip, steep grades in 90-95F weather.

i have a full 6.5l turbo set up for sale off my 95 c/w heath turbo master. shipping would pricey i think though. Also, before my rebuild it would never go more than like a mark past 210 even pulling uphill. that was with exhuast, TM, gl4, and 97+ fan. now with the ATT, 97 waterpump, and all...

Yes i reinstalled the engine grounds. I'm going go check them in a bit anyways though, just got home from work so i'm waiting for the engine to cool down a bit.

I'll check the connections as you suggest, but: Would a loose connector cause those extra lights to come on? As i said it seems like its testing the lights like when you start up. Does the dash have the circuitry to test the lights upon power on, or does the ecm do it? also i have heard the...

So i got the new motor in my truck and its running good but im having and odd problem with my dash lights. truck starts up and drives fine, but while driving the dash lights turn on and off randomly. i dont mean the back lights, i mean the check engine light, airbag light, parking brake...

mine weighs roughly 6400lbs with a full tank.

so i am getting codes 34,96,97,98 34 is Injection Timing Stepper Motor Fault- im guessing this is what is causing the rough running? the other three are cylinder imbalances

i plan to keep the truck so i will be getting a scanner or a laptop and GMTDScan like you said. but i need it right now and i don't have it so I'm taking it to a shop tomorrow to have TDCO learn done, assuming it doesn't end up being an injector.

i thought -1.94 but i wasn't sure cause it was an aftermarket chip. i have driven it around for an hour or two. it wasn't that bad to begin with, it got worse. maybe its something the PCM is trying to compensate for like you said. i ran it for a while last night and got some codes to come...

love to but i don't have a laptop to run it on and I'm not about to take my desktop setup outside. tomorrow im going to fix the exhaust leak and see if one of the injectors is the problem. If its not the injectors Im going to take it to a shop and have it timed on friday. whats the optimal TDCO...

I don't have a scanner. i have it set 2mm to the drivers side. I'm planning on taking it to get it timed soon- or buying onea scanner: any recommendations on a model? its seems to run like this at all coolant temps. but when warmed up it seems to only be at around 7-800rpm above and below...

no one else has any ideas?

it was brand new last summer. when i took it out i left it filled with diesel fuel treated with power service.

heres the diagnostic list: ____________________________ Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions: - Year: 1995______ - Truck model and class (ie: c2500) k2500 burb_________ - Automatic or Standard _auto_________ - Mileage: (indicate miles or km)...

just rebuilt my motor and installed it and its running rough and smoking white/gray at idle. sorry if this gets long- just want to describe the situation and bounce ideas of people. new engine info: -machined block 599 block, 40 over -new pistons, scat crank, balancer, balance pulley. all...

going mechanical cause that's the type of bellhousing that came with the sm465, parts are more plentiful and cheap at pick and pull, and its simple. and i see where my question was answered. when i initially skimed over that i thought that it was talking about the flywheel.

nope the numbers were perfectly clear. i paid 75 cad for this one. needed to clean off some surface rust though- really minor though. looks good now. still have to get a clutch and pedal setup though. pedals will be easy from the local pick and pull. just gonna go with a manual linkage setup...

it had the following number on it: 050525N doesnt seem to match the numbers you listed though so i dont know if it helps you. it also had GM1 and another 5-6 digit number on it.