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I have a 1998 K1500 (6.5 diesel), hope this helps.

I'm not sure, I sure someone here will be able to answer that for you. I responded to ask you to post a picture here once you have it completed, good luck!

I would consider to just run it. Given the location, I don't foresee any catastrophic failure potential. Besides, how long have you been running it anyway? Meanwhile, keep an eye out for a replacement.

A gear oil saturated brake pad can become sticky and bind up the brakes from releasing.

Since there is gear oil at the driver side brakes...it's most likely an axle seal gone bad causing your rear differential to be low on oil which is causing the sound you are hearing. You didn't mention the mileage on the truck, how it is used or which rear axle you have or whether it is a 1500...

The positive to this situation is that the starter bolts are not broken. Having the starter brace is imperative to this engine. Too many times has the starter brace been deleted and starter bolts or the block where the starter bolts up is broken and turned into a massive paperweight.

If you could report back with a few photos, that would be awesome.

Did you replace the resistor that slides into the PMD when you swapped it? I'm Not sure if that will cause a "no start" but I was just thinking through the steps.

Sounds like solid advice, thanks.

Hello 6.5ers, I need advice on what to do with a 6.5 with a crack in the #8 cylinder. I've already replaced the motor with a brand new GEP. So now I have a long block that's taking up space. It only has 93k on it and it ran perfectly. Coolant was disappearing and I thought I had a bad connection...

First of all, I agree with the others. What was wrong with the original ECM? 170° is about the temperature that the ECM goes into a closed loop. Perhaps the ECM is not properly grounded.

I bought mine from Leroy Diesel and I thought they were a good price! Brand new Bosch no fussing around.

I used the attached information last time I removed and replaced an intake. I believe that there's a few bolts that need a sealant as indicated on the diagram with a "T" for Teflon tape. I don't know what the factory specs are regarding sealant but I used Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant...

If you can still start the engine, you could get it up to temperature to effectively expand the metal then use a can of air in an upside down position to spray on the head of the bolt to shrink that metal while the cast iron is still warm and expanded. I'm not sure how effective it would be on...

What I have done if I suspect that I may break a bolt is: I slightly tighten first, then loosen slightly and continue to slightly tightening while mostly loosening. My theory is that this will reduce the torque (twist) and reduce the risk of snapping the bolt. Hasn't failed me yet.

Much appreciated! Many of us do not have the expertise to do the same work and would have never been able to do the same analysis. Thank you

Might also check all of the ground connections.

That sounds pretty thorough. I would suggest a large desiccant bag to absorb moisture within the plastic bag.

Got the flexplate turned around, buttoned everything back up and...NO vibration, yea! Purs like a kitten. Thanks everyone for the help.

I think I installed the flexplate backwards.