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Who makes the best block heater. I've heard that Kat's don't last, what are your experiences?

The ceramic coating is added to existing parts. As I understand it, it can be applied to almost anything as a spray on coating. Diesel Depot I know several people have had a bad experience, but mine has been good. Other than beating on it some and several near catastrophes from oil cooler...

I was looking through the Napa web site and found the grommet: # NOE 7031301 for $6 also even a PMD, PMD relocation kit, and new Delphi injectors. Parts I never though they carried, considering I get most all of my parts from them.

Mine came with 6.5 heads.

Tee off the OPS just behind the drivers side head. Use a good tread sealer so you don't have any leaks. I had to redo mine after it leaked. Its a real "B" to do when the engine is in the truck. Best to install the Tee and turbo line before the engine install, do a mock up of the intake...

Hard to tell if the APP is the cause without a live data scanner or a couple volt meters hooked up to the ECU when it is acting up. The scanner would show the percentage of APP applied when the peddle is pushed. Otherwise its put some volt meters on the 2 or three signal lines from the APP to...

Lower or drop the diff would be the best option. (most room) Its pretty tight with the diff installed, plus the extra work to get the pan bolts on the left side will be easier with the diff out. remove drive shaft, unbolt half shafts, remove three mounting bolts, out.

I've been on the Rotella T6 for almost two years. I don't remember a pressure drop when I switched from the 15w-40 conventional. If any it was minimal. Definitely better cold starts, and not having to switch viscosities between 5x-30 and 15w-40 is nice too. The impact of the three oil cooler...

Clean, flat sealing surface, RTV, no gasket. I used pematex ultra black the last time I had the valve covers off.

This morning was -5F with sub zero all night. After sitting in at least 8F or less for 12 hours, turn the key, wait to start goes out, hit the starter and rattle ... rattle ... rattle ... rattle. At least one cylinder was unhappy with the duration of unburnt fuel, but the truck turned over...

The 25 year machinist with plenty of 6.5 experience begged to differ when he surfaced my heads. He cleans up the head and precup's, then inserts them with sealant of some type to "glue" them in. If a razor blade catches the edge, the precup height is wrong. They have to be fully seated and...

I got mine rebuilt's from a local Diesel shop. Sent back my cores when I was done. If one's in your area, do you trust their work, is their cost reasonable?

The job can be done in the engine bay. The head will not clear with studs installed, they must be put in after head is set on the block. The firewall / hydro-boost interferes. While you have the heads off, take them to a shop and have the precups inspected, cleaned, reinstalled and then...

A fine compromise. Thanks Pepperidge.

Everyone should be exposed to a certifiable example occasionally. This is a fine specimen of wasted . . . . material.

:agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed: :agreed...

I usually won't plug in until 10 degrees or lower. Then only for 10 or 15 minutes, after it didn't start. Below zero, I will plug it in before trying to start.

Tell that to the Brother in law that has blown up dodge in his driveway. His latest service truck is a 6.5. The big cummins you have a point, no so much for the mini cummins.

That's salt on mine. The heat sinks are anodized = no corrosion. (unless you sand or file it)

Here's mine, in the bumper. With a bead of silicone around the PMD base and covering the screw heads.