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the SES light is for the transmission. As sctrailrider said the ECM didn't start until '94 but you have a standalone controller. they ran from 91-93 for the 4l80E.

the only spots for oil to leak from is the timing cover or the front crank seal in the cover. If it's lower than that it may be the timing cover/oil pan seal. the fan makes it hard to find sometimes

the link for the the video is set on private.

the solenoids are easy thing to change. just drop the starter and solenoid is held on by 2 bolts. might need a quarter turn to disengage the 'tab' and install is just the reverse. last on cost me a whole $20.

for us, the desktop is on win7 but my laptop still runs XP. Haven't tried 8/8.1 yet but I'd keep xp over win 7 any day of the week. xp has little flash or fancy thing but that they way I like it. straight and to the point.

M8x1.25x18mm bolt. Starter Motor Bracket OEM - 14028931 Starter Motor Bracket OEM - 23502557 gotta love the tech library. lots of good info in there http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?629-Part-s-for-6-5 the 6.2 falls under...

the are 2 different bracket that I know of. the older 27mt( direct drive) or the 28mt(gear reduction). the older style bracket is longer than the new one. the technical library has both set of numbers. I can't tell ya which one is which.

could also be the supply line that runs from the mechanical lift pump. IIRC it ran up the front of the block and the under the intake.

might be on what level of options you got then. most of the ones I had/used have been the lower/work editions

a lot of the square bodies truck still used cable controls for the heater. the only spots you could direct it to was the defrost or the floor. J code 6.2's didn't have a vac pump.

For a tach signal use the oil pump drive as Will suggested. you'll find it from 91 up to 93 before the DB4 setup. it was used for the 4l80E.

yes

clockwise is to advance the timing. the width of the line is about 2 degrees adjustment. you only need a couple of degrees to make a big adjustment. most of us run it a degree or 2 ahead of the neutral line.

definitely a neat idea. a good double use. and you still have a full bed to work with.

ok so far I found their either concrete nippers or tile cutters. what I'm trying to figure out is who made them. time line is from 1950's though 70's. that's my best guess. http://i1349.photobucket.com/albums/p741/cghlndn/IMG_0008_zps5ba1a74f.jpg...

I need to replace the cord for the laptop due to the replacement one it came with was cheapy made in a alot of ways. I was looking at the lind. they seem to have a good reputation for durability. what I'm wondering are they worth the price tag that goes with them? the OE adapter runs about 50...

2.5" pipe will be fine. the highest rating was a 165hp and that was a j code setup(no egr). I'm not sure about the precup differences, but the fuel can be turned up at 1/8-1/4 max without any major issues. a little smoke on hard acceleration is OK but big black clouds is just wasted...

quick question. any idea how much a crew cab(the cab itself) weighs in at? looking at the amount of rust work needed it's starting to look cheaper/easier just to swap.

when you relocated to pickup sensor did you take into account the 2:1 difference is the speed. 2 rpm crank speed is only 1rpm for the cam shaft. that might be part of the problem.

they only nail you for rust if it bad enough for something to fall off or possible air leak into the cabin. mine has enough fresh air to make up for any possible leaks LOL