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Searched a bit on the internet for info on this anyone know the low range ratio on this case? Also i seen a diagram on this case and it appears to be gear-driven anyone confirm this?

ok thanks a bunch

mod please delete the other threads, bad wi-fi connection screwed me up

I need some info please guys, I believe this transfer case was only available in the K3500 series of trucks, and I beleive it may only of been available in the duall rear wheel trucks. Anyway if any of you still have your factory service manuals, (i dont) could you tell me the required oil...

Yes they will

I told you, I'd give them to you, if you gave me your sisters phone number but you wouldnt budge):h

I plan on pulling it at 10-15 brush pulls a year around here, main goal to begin with is just get it driving and all the bugs worked out, I know where I want to end up with power which is about 600-650 on #2 with a single 2.6" turbo by the time I take it out of winter storage for next year...

One the best parts of all of this is going to be just proving all the people wrong around here that say it cant be done, or I cant do it. Well I told them they can all check out the Chevy Cummins at the Labor Day truck pulls up by us. I wish I wasnt 2.5 hours away from it so I could be working...

Just some pics of the trans out of the truck and a couple of the motor set in the engine bay, but as I stated before I couldnt get it where its final position will be due to the height and interference of the motor mounts.

3" body lift installed in the cab, 6.5 removal pics, and out of the truck, and front shot of the trans and tiny little 1-1/4" input shaft the new 1-3/8" input just dwarfs it in every dimension.

Had the last week off work, but spent most of the time in the hospital, with the old lady and my new born son Brayden, has all his toes and fingers, healthy, sleeps all day, eats all night, couldnt ask for much more, but I got a chance to work on it Friday and Saturday, made a good amount of...

Got a little progress done today, got the motor all prepped and ready to go in the truck minus blocking off the coolant lines that ran to the old transmission heat exchanger. Got the power steering pump removed and converted the it to a hydroboost system and got the KDP (killer dowel pin)...

Agreed Pro-comp sells a good tire, there prices seem to have gone up quite a bit in the last few years, but there no longer the "Off" brand they used to be. If you can catch them on a buy 3 get 1 free deal you can make off pretty good usually though. I got 4 Pro-Comp Extreme Mud-Terrains...

I'll find out today I'm gunna try 1 more time when I go back to work, Im off premium rest in an hour.

I would do it like that, it wont start now, its nots not getting fuel in the engine, but theres fuel up until the pump, the filter is good and no debris in the filter housing, it outta my control, without any tools or equpiment down here.

The truck had to be reliable for 2 more days, that's I had asked of it. Today on my way to leave work right before I get the gates that automatically open, the truck stalls, what the heck is going on, ok dont panic, shut it off and try to start it again. Fires right up great, 1 second later...

I'll have less than $6000 into my Cummins conversion when I'm done with it and it'll be around high 200's for now, I could have alot less into it, but my Clutch was $2300, I could of went cheaper on that route but It's gunna make some ponies, but I'll end up somewhere around #600 at the wheels...

I thought argon was for Aluminum welding, I dont know I've always just used 100% CO2, that really is true about buying more than you need cause I know I'll end up wanting or needing it later. Wish I could justify buying a TIG too though...lol money just flying out the door

I like my NV4500 only problem is the Chevy version has an internal Slave and if that craps out on you, you gotta drop the trans to replace it, and as of Friday mine started junking out and is getting air in the lines somewhere so I have to drive without a clutch or with barely a clutch, have to...

I've been look for a good MIG welder without breaking the bank as I've already done that on my truck so far this year, I've been debating between a 140, 180, and 210. And Hobart or Miller, i've ruled out Lincolns as junk and never really met anyone with a good one is Miller worth the price over...