Search results

I can't say for sure but I have read that. Might want to post something on it. If you keep them, instructions Here

If you look at my post (#42) you can see the oil cooler and the brake/power steering cooler. The oil cooler has the red and blue hose ends at the bottom. Just to the right is a tall and narrow cooler, that is for the power steering fluid. And yes, you probably do have a hydraboost power brake...

OK I see how they work now. You still may have to over or under tighten to get them clocked properly and then you can't easily move them once in place. Plus, you have the extra length with the extra fittings. Unless cost is an overriding factor, I would still recommend the ones with the AN...

It's awfully tight where the hoses exit the oil cooler, especially if you are using -10 hoses. I wouldn't recommend thread in 45 degree pipe adapters (if replacing the oil cooler with a pipe thread cooler) as clocking them at the correct angle is next to impossible. 45 degree hose ends will...

It did vibrate at idle, seems a bit better now. From what I read, the poly mounts transmit a fair amount of vibration into the truck, so I didn't want to use them. As you know, I don't have a diff in the front of the Suburban, but the Mini does!

Maybe, but the Mini engine compartment is pretty narrow. The Mini has the gearbox under the engine, so its not real wide. I have seen a 3 cylinder Daihatsu Diesel in a Mini, so its possible to fit one. Honda VTech conversions are very common. I'm sticking with the BL A Series engine on this...

I can say its a pig of a job. I did one side at a time. There is a bolt that runs front to rear through the mount and the plate that bolts to the engine and 3 bolts that attach the mount to the frame. I jacked up the engine using a large block of wood under the oil pan. Remove the long bolt...

Well, a little update on the AMG engine in the Suburban. If you don't remember, you can read all about the engine install HERE. First, its still running well, maybe better than ever. My wife drives it most days, cant really blame her. :) There have been a few problems, but fortunately...

There are two sizes for DB2 lines, one for 6.2 and one for 6.5. Its my understanding the 6.5 DB2 lines are the same as DS4, but I can't say for sure. $240 for adapters, you can get a used set of DB2 lines for less than that, in fact I think a new set of lines wouldn't be much more. They look...

I remote mounted my OPS. The constant engine shaking and high current load of the stock OPS are the double whammy as far as longevity is concerned. I have been using the Kennedy Lift Pump Control Harness for several years and I can report it works very well. Its a little pricey, but IMO worth...

You might want to look at the Hayden "Truck Fan Clutch". Its the heaviest duty fan clutch they make. Get the one for a Kodiak with a Duramax. I think it's what Heath sells in their kit. One other note, I have contacted Hayden's tech department and they assure me all their fan clutches that...

If you are buying a new overflow tank, there are two available. The later one is for the K47 airbox, it routes the smaller hose forward instead of up. It fits better around the K47 airbox. If buying new, I would pick the one that fits best around your air cleaner. This is the older...

I have used Buss Add-A-Fuse or Fuse Taps with very good results. It replaces the fuse and has a space for the original fuse and adds another fused wire. I'm sure there is a 12V switched fuse in the underhood fuse box...

On my 1995 Suburban - and I'm assuming all 88-99's are the same - I did not have to remove the hood. The hood can be opened almost straight up and I could get the engine in and out with plenty of clearance. First remove the wipers. Next, remove the two small covers at each end of the cowl...

I suggest you wash the studs until they are clean & oil free. Chase the threads in the block and clean. I used GM Pipe Sealant with PTFE to seal the studs into the block - hand tight only. The GM sealer is expensive ($20 tube) but seems to work well. Then use ARP lube on the nuts & washers.

I haven't doe one for anyone else. I'm pretty busy right now, so really don't have the time. Its really not that hard, if you can change a pump, you can do the conversion. Cost are outlined in the book, but are 2004 prices. But the part list is there, so you can calculate from that. Pump is...

I still get lots of inquiries on how to convert the electronic DS4 pump to a mechanical DB2 pump. As some of you know, I wrote a manual some years back detailing the conversion. Initially, this was sold as a printed booklet, but lately I have been sending it out as a pdf file. I have been...

Actually Total Seal sells a gapless top ring now. Don't know if they have it for the 6.5's. They have info on their website. I looked at them for my engine, but was quoted $100 per cylinder for just the rings, so I gave it a miss. I have a set of second rings for an engine I will be...

That is actually a 1.5% failure rate, but still not bad :):)

The kits are certainly the easiest way to go, probably cheaper unless you have a source for the hoses & ends as well. If you really want to make your own lines, buy a Tru-Cool oil cooler. It is the same cooler but with NPT threads. Then you can get an AN to NPT adapter for the cooler. Unless...