Engine in my truck has a terrible noise. Almost like the injectors but after it warms sort of goes away.
With the limited abilities of my ears, it sounds like from the RH side.
I did make an attempt at doing a retorque on the exhaust manifolds after the new engine was in and runn ing but is...
welcome aboard Cliff.
I’m thinking maybe @dbrannon79 has pretty much nailed it.
Block wheels so it can not roll.
Crawl under and look at position of shift arm on the transmixer.
Insert key in ignition and turn to run position, press hard on brake pedal, turn key to off, if it will, back under...
Oh yeah, also, I have the top side harness connectors and the bumper ends all three numbered, if one fails then I know which one it is and can then remove it without guessing.
Also, I have not had to replace a pump driver for l quite some time.
I no longer call them a PMD or pump mounted driver...
That sounds to me like the typical PMD failure.
On My truck I have three PMDs mounted on heat sinks with remote harnesses strung to each one.
One driver is a Dorman that I am currently running on and Oriellys life time warranties those, dont know if other parts stores does or dont.
The other...
Throw a new PMD at it and see what it does.
As @jrsavoie suggested, be sure it has a new resistor installed within the PMD plug too.
I was typing same time he was posting. 😹😹😹
I had the sending unit screwed into the fitting right at the IP.
Before I knew about the snubbers I was replacing sending units right regular.
I’d have to lift the upper intake to get enough swing on the wrench so after I got the snubbers I did the remote hose system but used 5/16ths 30R9 hose...
Might have to change backing plates and emergency brake cables for the emergency brakes.
The park brake cables could be different in lengths and styles.
I tried one of those after market variable valve elimination kits that many sites sells.
Dont waste Your time nor money, they dont fit. They are smaller fittings than what Our systems require.
I think they are made for gassers with vacuum boost and not for the hydro boost systems what must have...
Probably have to install a battery pack and an invertor so the block heater could function in tue dark.
For me it was always that morning start before the commute to work during the chill of the eastern Montana winters that the block heater was required.
On the 1993 gmc I had, in the fuse panel, it showed two fuses, one was ECM 1 and the other ECM 2. IIRC the 2 was for the in tank fuel pump, being it was a 5.7, 350 gas engine.
Upon finding which fuse powers the ECM and pulling that fues it should cut the draw some and if it does cut it some then...
I do believe that there is some sort of a signal from the alternator on a single alternator system that triggers the tachometer into thinking its reading actual engine RPMs.
The pulleys from the 6.5 alternator has to be exchanged with a store bought alternator or else the tach will read faster...
I’ll try to remember to watch the tach when I start my truck in the morning.
I do know that it shows the cranking speed of the engine when the ALDL connector is installed and active to the AUTEL app on my phone.