Thats why I'm keeping my eyes open for used rears.(for now)
I don't mind em used, the new ones squeak too much, but keep an eye out for GENTLY used rears...
OH! Doorhandles!! Nevermind.....
My truck with GM-8, WMI, 3.73s, and Heath HP4 got 11 mpg towing a Case Construction King tractor on a triple axle flatbed at 65, and 7 at 70 mph.
I never bothered to check the weight. Just way glad TD recommended the Prodigy brake controller.
Yes, the one on the injection pump was the bad one on mine. You can check it with a volt meter at the PMD with pin leads. If the voltage is less than measured at the battery (mine was 1.24 volts lower), your stumble could be caused by grounds or your ignition switch.
I was like 15 minutes...
I'm telling ya.. it's ground or ignition switch related, check the voltage at the PMD. When ya hit that rpm range, I am betting that your ctime is long and just under setting a code.
GMCTD knows all.. and what he doesn't he can fake really well. :D
Can you hook up a scan tool or software and see if CTIME is getting above specifications when that lope happens? gmctd taught me that can be caused by a bad ignition switch or bad grounds.
Heya all,
This may be of no consequence to anyone who isn't a ham, but it could explain the wierd jumping the speedometer does when you start up in the morning.
The other day I was driving along listening to 6 meters, and discovered a very odd signal on 51.022 Mhz USB that was an odd...
Boot up with the cable connected a USB port. Use the same port every time.
When windows boots, go to control panel -> System and then Hardware tab and click Device Manager,
expand "Ports (COM & LPT)" It should show you which COM port the ALDL converter cable is. Set GMTDScan Tech to that...
That's because the 94's door locks are on a self-resetting circuit breaker. On my truck the same circuit runs the trailer brake controller.. REALLY exciting day when I learned that!