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hmmm.....That's a tough one, DD. I am really not sure what to suggest. I did tell the wifey last night that I wanted a 6.5 'burb. She seemed open to it, not that we have the $$ for one of those.

My rig has 210K miles on it. As far as I know the IP has never been replaced. Not so much as a hint of issues with it. I also run 8 ounces of Power Service and a quart of 2-cycle engine oil with every tank to keep things nice and lubed up.

Slim, I PM'd you on the other site. Thanks a bunch, it's much appreciated.

I'm pretty sure that there are gaskets on the return from the head. That is where it broke. I already upgraded the clip fit a while ago. Unfortunately, all of my money is going to pay for my son's chemotherapy, so unless I find the dual thermostat crossover for like $20, I'm SOL.

I've been cursing like a sailor for the last half hour. So my rig developed a coolant leak in the last week. I traced it back to the passenger side of the thermostat crossover. No biggie, I'll pull it off, clean up the gasket material real good, slap some new gaskets on and be good to go...

Or you can to go Napa and buy a new cord. If it's the one that came with the truck. They're like $12.

I have no choice to run the engine for now. That was the reason I put it back together with the bad piston still in place. All things being equal, I would have replaced the piston when I had the head off. But, I couldn't get the front differential down, which means I couldn't get the oil pan...

Behind the bumper is the best place. As long as it is completely out of the engine compartment.

Oil Pressure has been fine, right where it should be at 40 lbs. You think it's a rod knock or spun bearing? When I drained the oil last (which I need to do an oil change again soon) there was no metal in it whatsoever. I even took a magnet to it. Of course, I didn't send any of it off to be...

OK, all, got a problem. I've done a TON of searching on the other place, but just need to bounce some ideas off of everyone. Long story short, my rig has a knock. It doesn't occur right away, usually after a few minutes of the engine running. It comes on gradually, starting with a single...

RE: Over-inflating tires: You will probably spend more money on new tires than you would save by the improved economy. Manufacturers design tires to run the most efficiently at a certain PSI, with just the right amount of rubber making contact with the road. Under or over inflating tires will...

Seems to me that the next step is to drop the tank and figure out where it's leaking from. The most likely culprit, if you replaced the FSU, is the rubber gasket that goes between the FSU and the fuel tank. I had a Burb come into my shop back in June, where a guy was up in Idaho and his FSU...

Why not just take a BFH to the 4" pipe. I'm sure you could get 'er to fit in there. :smile:

You will need to either unbolt the motor mounts and then lift the motor about 4 inches. Or you can drop you front differential. Hard? Hardly. Just time consuming, IMO.

I used a 30mm Axle nut socket...it worked like a champ.

I don't think you need the $400 assembly. I could be wrong, but unless you are putting in a CRI Cummins, you will probably have a mechanical IP and thus would need the cable type pedal.

I'm afraid to soak* my motor again....the last time I did, it didn't want to start for about 10 minutes.

Hey Bill...suggestion on your bumper...for those of us that don't need a winch, how about an application where we can put an I/C in the bumper, that's protected. You know? That would be sweet! :)

I'd love that Dually rig. And the engine compartments were SOOO clean! I wish mine were that clean!

Also, if you look at the stock "F" HP and Torque rating on the 6.5 compared to the 98.5 Cummins 24V motor...they are almost identical. As for referring to the 6.5 as a "pre-Duramax", that makes no sense whatsoever. They are two completely different class of engine: 6.5 is an IDI with rotary...