Search results

I've got an electrical gremlin in my 4WD...bought a new actuator to 'fix' it, plugged it in without installing it and it didn't engage. Unless I did it wrong. I even started the truck and put it in 4WD, it did not engage. Does anyone have a schematic of the 4WD electrical they can post for me?

God knows I hear you on this. We just hit the $200K mark. :mad2:

Do you have a block heater you can plug in? Just to rule out the cold as an issue. The only time my rig has had an issue starting was last week, it was right at 0*f and I had a loose connection on one of my batteries (ground). I tightened that back up, hooked up another truck and let her...

What *I* would do is run straight fusible link between the battery and the alternator. You *could* run then run a length of fusible link on each end of the connection between batteries, but that is probably not necessary. IIRC it will provide plenty of protection between the battery(ies) and...

Great writeup, Chris. This is exactly how I was planning to do mine. The ONLY thing I would want to do differently, which I am trying to figure out how to do, is to have a timer type switch (haven't been able to find one for 12v applications, so if anyone has any suggestions, that would be...

JMO, I wouldn't use a fuse, but rather a fusible link.

Actually, a layer on just the PMD is more than sufficient. It doesn't take much to effectively transfer the heat. But even coating is important.

A memory dump is usually (at least in this situation) a dump of whatever data you're seeing to a text file. You can get software such as SnagIt that will record whatever is on your screen and save it to a wmv file.

just make sure that you don't put any RTV between the PMD and the heatsink. Silicone doesn't conduct heat.

Deuce, I'm in the SLC area a lot (spending a lot of time at Primary Children's right now), so I'm more than happy to lend my help if you need it.

And put it on a relay. But that goes without saying, I think.

Woot! Glad to hear it. Maybe I'll do the same thing when I put together a new motor. I'll have to do some research into it.

Nah, third time's a charm. Take it to a machine shop and see what they can do for it. For all we know, the 2nd crank could have just been a fluke. Seriously, it might be worth it to see what they think. None of us can tell you whether or not your block is true. I'd consider taking it in and...

Rear outlets on both heads.

Find out what a machine shop would charge to fix the cracks using the Lock-'N-Stitch system. I know that Missy Goodwrench seems to have had good luck with them. Would probably be much cheaper than a new block or a new truck.

You did mount it to a heatsink, right? Dumb question, I know, but the mounting in the pic above is completely insufficient.

It's called after glow. It's just there to help make sure the cylinders are firing after the motor starts. AFAIK, our rigs are all or nothing with the GP's. They either all glow or none of them glow.

John, I remember Jim giving that suggestion as I was sitting here trying to figure out how to heat my truck up. Worked like a champ.

No gelling. Just the equation: Frigid air + Icy block = Not enough heat during compression to ignite fuel. See my 'Interesting' thread.

If the front differential is locked, that means that if there is something to drive them, they'll turn. The transfer case is only half of 4x4 equation. You also have to have locked hubs (meaning the axles are engaged) so that when the transfer case turns the drive shaft, the drive shaft can...