I looked up the power master after I already bought this one. I saw someone else talking about it somewhere. It was like 300 dollars I think. Do they come with a nice warrenty?
I'm on to my next issue...haha. The oil pressure gauge needle is pointing all the way to to the right when I turn the truck on. I'm thinking the gauge itself is bad because it did the same thing on the last motor I had in the truck. I think it started doing it around the time motor started going...
Nope I'm wrong, the fins are aluminum. I was looking through a case that it fits in and the sides are copper or brass. And I bought it about 2 months ago.
It goes into the group of wires that go around the back of the motor, I'll have to check tommorrow when I got some light to see where it goes from there.
I found the culprit, ther'e 2 wires coming from the starter solenoid to a "junction post" on my firewall. The 2 wires go through a plastic piece (i think is a fusible link) and come out with 1 wire. The single wire was burnt out pretty bad. The alternators back at 12v and I have power again when...
I got a replacement rear heater core for my suburban from o reillys and it had copper fins.
As far as computers go, the copper heat sinks pull heat better but the aluminum heat sinks dissipate the heat faster. They've even got some with a copper base and aluminum fins. Don't know if that helps any.
I got the direct drive one just because that's what was originally on there. And ya that thing is a pita to hold like you said. Now that I've taken it on and off a few times I've gotten a routine for it...haha. I did almost drop it on my head the other day though, I thought the bolt was holding...
The fusible links looked good, just 26 years old.
Ok I will try those spots.
The wires that leave the alt don't go directly to the battery though, do I follow them till they end and check them the whole way?
And I forgot to mention that when we jumped the posts together on the glow solenoid...
We checked the fusible links, we found 3, but they looked alright. Is it possible for those to go bad and still look ok? And could that cause the alt to overcharge?
Just when I thought I had all the bugs worked, I forgot about the electrical part...haha.
My problem started the other day when I noticed the alternator gauge was showing very low voltage. I checked and the alt belt was broke off laying in the side by the wheel well. So I put the spare belt...
Cool, it definately got me out of a spot.
Anybody know the best of the best brands for starters? It seemed oreillys had other ones (I didn't know until I looked at their website). I only remember AC Delco and Ultima brands. Which I thought (not for certain) AC Delco was a good one.
I found one close by but it is at oreillys. I know I shouldn't have got it but it's got a lifetime (limited lifetime, whatever that is) warranty, and I got to get to work tommorrow. It's Ultima brand, anyone know if that's anygood or not?
I had my starter checked out and the guy said the armatures are bad. He said (his shop is on his farm so he's not a big buisness type) he couldn't get them from his supplier and that he would have to send it in to be re-wound wich would cost more than to buy a rebuilt one.
Also, gm wasn't...
Ok, should I take it off then and do that? The bolts that loosened are the bolts that actually hold the starter unit together. The bracket hasn't moved. Although the stud on the starter that goes through the bracket barely goes through it, I think the bracket is about 3/16 inch thick and the...