Thats exactly the kind of system i was thinking about for the intake heater, using the headlights to initialize then flip it over to the battery for the heavy current, just wasnt sure how to make it work, thanks for the excellent idea.
As for the winter front... if everything was working...
Since ive been having cooling/heating issues im not sure what "full temp" is, toss me out a number just so i know what normal actually is... also since you seem to have no summer/winter issues, what do you run for t-stats... 195 AC's?
JiFaire, i definitely noticed that people posting on this thread are ranging from Alaska to the northern states which makes sense for obvious reasons. As for hooking it up to the headlights, I agree, that could be a major issue, although when I had that brain wave, I was trying to think of...
Well that explains it, since im not exactly familiar with anything ford, would that relay only flip on for a certain ammount of time, or is it up to the user to flip that switch off after the start?
Ok, that answers my question, i wasnt sure whether those elements were on a switch, or hard wired to the ignition... we have an old case 400 that i'm not even sure has an intake heater, and if it does i have no idea where the switch is, same with our JD 4230 (new to the farm), 2- massy 90's...
That definitely isnt out of the question... but it being an old tractor intake element... did they actually have something that governed how long the element cylcled for? Or did it just stay on constantly... Because those old 60's tractors dont have glow plugs to even help out with the start...
Well ... thats a topic that could be debated... Dont quote me on my numbers, but it's something like 80% of engine wear happens from start up to normal opperating temperature... If the engine isnt able to build enough heat to obtain what would be considered normal operating termperature, then...
But first i'm going to get my ScanXL up and running so i can see the before and after AIT readings just to see what the difference is when the turbo is blowing cold air over it... Just to see if it can keep up or not.
I think if i end up doing it, i'll wire it to a switch in cab, but have the switch wired to my headlight circuit... or just straight to accessory (depends on if that works with my command start), because i know for sure my headlights come on when i hit the command start (Stupid Canadian day time...
Oh thats a deadly easy system... now how much heat will that little element offer? Compared to what i saw dodge using with the cummins, that's an awful small coil... looks can be decieving though...
During the summer or our hot fall, the truck would get hot idleing in traffic... By hot i mean touching 100 degrees C (straight up and down on the dash cluster)... I am in the process of getting ScanXL to hook into my OBD II port and get a better ECU reading, but there was a time this summer...
Sounds good, I'm here in saskatchewan, so anything alberta gets, we are near one in the same. Also, correct me if i'm wrong, but my 1998 should be running a dual thermostat set up... right?
This is my first winter with the truck, so i'll be honest, i dont know what the guy before me has in it. Ive got grill inserts to help it heat up but thats about it right now, havent changed the t-stat, but ill toss that on my list... what thermostat should i be running for the summer?
My thoughts started to outrun my progress... Is there any way that this heater could be set up to run off the intake temperature... for example, if the intake temperature is below 'x' degrees the intake heater runs, if not, it doesnt. Or are these intake air heaters only for assisting in...
Hi, i'm from up in Canada where it gets awful cold in the winter (-30 degrees celcius, or -25 degrees fahrenheit) depending on the day of course.
I was just wondering if anyone has adapted a cummins intake air heater or any other intake air heater for the 6.5L TD, suggestions, or any...