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My stock return line is rubber in the tank. At this point that tank is staying up in there until I have a problem. If the rubber hose deteriorates, I'll change out the AN fitting and put a copper return in the tank too.

I figured since rubber return was good for stock, it would work as well for this. I guess copper would have worked. I could probably experiment with my stock sending unit and see if the pickup and return lines can be cut off and if there's enough room for AN fittings. If there is, you might...

The pickup tube is copper. The return is diesel rated hose that is slightly longer than the pickup tube. That is so when it hits the bottom of the tank is bends and fuel is dumped away from the pickup.

Well, it appears all is well. I just put 70 miles on with several start and stops. No hiccups or lack of fuel. In fact, going up hills now it doesn't seem to downshift as often or as early when it does. I think my fuel issues may be solved finally.

All buttoned up except the steel plate under the tank for now. I'm about to head outside and see if it starts. I wound up doing AN-8 from the sending unit dip tube all the way up to the pre-filter. I did AN-6 on the return line. I couldn't find the proper size hose barb for the vent tube, so...

Stopped by the local speed/diesel shop and ordered a BUNCH of AN fittings. This is not going to be cheap by any means, but it should be bulletproof and done better than GM ever did it. From what I can remember ordering, I have a 8AN and 6AN bulkhead fitting coming in, fittings for those to...

Gotcha. I guess I'll plan for a 8AN fitting for supply and 6AN for return then. I never thought I'd be getting this far into it but if I'm going this far, I might as well do it right. When all is said and done, I should be able to put whatever tune on it I want to now...

FTB mod?

I'm sure I could make one of those. Bulkhead fitting - that's what I was looking for. There's a local diesel/speed shop that has all sorts of AN fittings at competitive rates. I'm sure they'll have what I'm looking for. If they have braided lines too, that's what I'll go for. Leroy, are the...

No thanks Leroy. If I can avoid long runs of hose, I'd like to. The local parts store sells 3/8" brake line as well. What's an easy way to make a new pickup tube? I can't quite figure out how to seal the line as it passes through the plate.

I've got a roll of 5/16" already from when I ran new brake lines on my M35A2. I'm pretty sure stock lines are awfully close to 5/16".

No where local has a sending unit in stock to tear apart and use. Looks like I have to build my own. I'm considering replacing all of the fuel lines completely. Can I build them out of steel brake line and simply add the nuts from the stock lines where I need to tie into stock fittings?

I thought about modifying the old FSU plate thing but the pickup tube and return tube are "inset" into the plate for some odd reason.

At this point my next step is going to be to drop the tank and pull the sending unit out again. I'm considering making a whole new sending unit, basically. I figure I can cut a piece of sheet metal out in the same diameter and then make a new pickup tube and return hose in there. The vent...

1999 Burb with 24x,xxx miles on it. I recently was down on power so after replacing injectors and filters, I moved on to the lift pump. I installed Leroy's Walbro pump and pre-filter kit and got most of my power back buy suspected the tank sock to be a bit plugged up. No issues up to this...

I'm not incredibly worried about it. My tire shop lifts the axle instead of the frame and I never take my vehicles to a repair shop. The filter is mounted near the front of the rear doors, so it's in a horrible place to jack from anyways. It's the family vehicle so I don't go off-roading in...

If you use those Tees, they are "shorter" than the factory plastic Tees. The lower hoses probably won't have enough slack to connect without being stretched tight, but if you're replacing the quick disconnect anyways you're replacing that hose already. With enough KY and elbow grease, you can...

Two 5/16" bolts with lock washers through existing frame holes. One is tucked behind the filter and the other behind the pump. It's actually aluminum C channel and it bridges over the brake line and stock fuel lines.

I replaced the quick disconnect too. Wound up buying a short piece of 5x8" heater hose and a few feet of 3/4" heater hose. I used 1"x1"x1" PEX connector for the T's since they fit nicely inside of the 3/4" heater hose. I then used 3/4" to 1" PEX connectors to reduce the hose from 3/4" to 5/8"...

Here's some of the install pictures: Yes, the filter just barely touches the frame rail when spinning it on, but not once it's in place. The relay is sealed with silicone. The fuel hose doesn't stick any lower than the filter, which is about 1/2" lower than the frame rail.