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I took mine to a local transmission shop where I have know the guy for 20 years and trust him without question. Including the M/A kit, new seal and flluid it ran me $700 total including labor. A little expensive but I just didn't have the time to do it myself.

I would change the rear seal and the gasket. Put the MA kit in also at about 85K, there was no wear on the inside at all. I'm sure if I didn't do the kit it would wear right out with my luck!

When I have seen the 2.5 gallon jugs at Wal-Mart, they are usually more expensive than buying the gallon jugs.

The town my sister-in-law lives is Bedford. She has Ponemah Veterinary Hospital in Amherst, New Hampshire. I buy the trans filters online from an Allison dealer and usually order 3 or 4 so it more likely I'll change them if I have them handy.

At $8. a filter I change them out every 10K or so. Where do you live in NH? Go up to Cannon twice a year and have a sister-in-law that lives by Manchester.

I think I will just change out the trans filter even though it only has about 1500 miles on it since the last change, but it will lower the level slightly. I have 3 filters on my shelf so what the heck. One filter off, swap over the magnet and one filter on without fluid.

When I tow my 26' fiver I see those temps on the trans when towing, but usually the outside temps are in the mid 90's.

It was driving in bumper to bumper traffic stop and go as there were 2 accidents and a car on fire in a 2 mile stretch of highway. When hot the fluid is at the high end of the full marks but not above it. Today again around 195F driving the back roads again with outside temps at around 100F.

In the summer my trans naturally runs warmer, but yestereday at 102F it was close to the 200F mark. I wasn't towing, wasn't alarmed, but don't remember seeing it that high before. Could be we don't normally see over 100F here that often. Have changed out the fluid this spring for the 3rd time...

The Shell Rotella brand is a good line of oils, many large trucking companys are using it. For the price, it is worth it. With the winter temps, I like to use a synthetic, but I have been thinking about going back to the Shell Rotella since it is so cost affordable.

Your rear diff. should have been changed out already. It reaches very high temps during initial breakin period. Get a good synthetic and change it out, a little under 4 quarts.

I have a spare WIF sensor. When I take a filter off I just screw in the new filter with the sensor already in it. It saves a little time of getting the old sensor off even though I have the sensor wrench. Then I take my time and clean off the senor that came off the old filter.

We have been using that model for a couple of years with the Boy Scout troop I camp with. It works fine, we make a couple of pots in the morning and 15-20 minutes tops. When camping with the family I use instant.

I use the big heavy duty freezer zip lock bag for the last 3 filter changes, no holes from sensor, no mess and wonder why I didn't use it the first time I saw a post on this suggestion a few years back. Also Hoot had something at one time where he change out the plastic fender locks for metal...

The shop that installed my "Merchant" pump rub fix told me I should get the Dex out ASAP, he also has a radiator shop and say's that the stuff is killing gaskets, and radiators.

That is the trade magazine I was given. Very interesting reading, almost entire issue devoted to how bad the Dex is.

If you tow a lot, the 75w-140 is what you would use. For towing only once in a while go with the 75w-90.

I always look at the jaws to make sure they shut. You can tell if you watch the handle go out and come back in, but I always look since I don't want to crush the bed of the truck.

I notice the same thing. Seems worse in the warm weather.

One important thing to know is draining the rear differential after you tow for the first time. Some change out at 500 miles, others go a little longer. During breakin, the rear gets really hot so it is recommended you drain and refill.