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I always associated an NA diesel with being a 6.2 only... less fuel, less hp/torque... less fuel to burn, and 0-60 sometimes before AARP membership kicks in. How 'bout the 6.5 NA? Is it same for same on efficiency/mpg?

I'm of the camp of keeping it within the tolerances of designed "stresses". 12 psi is 'nuff for me...

Fixed it... wastegate was wired shut with no play in it.... however, it must have flexed under load... I did gain an extra second now from 0-60 (14 sec) and the SES light works for overboost. Whahoo.

PMD's are not the only reason for stalling.... could be ignition switch, fuel supply problems, etc etc etc. The PO may have given you those PMD's because that was the only thing he could think the problem may have been. Unless he was purchasing a bunch of used ones that were already kaput.

That was pulling off the turbo inlet hose to see if the blades were turning.

So Mr. Sooty is history... wow... that was one heck of a restriction. Took pics, will post later. So, with help of my son tonight, we castrated the exhaust. When it hit the ground I told him it was time for the celebratory "sing." Whenever the soot trap was off the Bus 1, it would whistle...

2WD...

So, the million dollar question for those who have scientifically recorded it... what's the improvement so far with a fresh set of STOCK injectors (Hi Pops too just out of curiosity)

Restrictor is needed for not over cooling engine in winter or too much flow through heater core in summer and not rejecting heat out the radiator?

What is that little do-dad that comes off the the thermostat housing and looks like some quick push in for coolant to go on to the back of the passenger side engine where the coolant line's Tee's are connected? Mine is leaking slowly...

That almost seems backwards... I would think that the 4.10's would be lower than your 3.73 rig....

I saw the last soot trap... can we say delta P across that? I does make a difference in the smell out the tail pipe. Diesels are immune to emissions here in DE, so soot trap delete isn't a problem.

First fill up at 200 miles... 16.1 mpg. Highway miles, holding steady to the speed limit (with a little fun in between). 3.73 "F" engine. What say ya'll? About average? Soot trap still intact with GM-8 turbo. No other fun stuff yet. Looking for efficiency and LONGEVITY... not...

Ah yes... boost gauge... like I was telling my kids tonight when they were complaining about their little reading lights not working in the back seat... "We've only had it for 72hours, can I get a chance to work on it?" That rough test of boost was under load. And I shouldn't say it didn't...

Since I now have a truck chassis... this is a whole different deal than the van (bus) from before. The sound of the engine is very different in the cab vs having just a dog house to dampen the noise. The wastegate was not operational at first, but now I have it locked shut for the moment...

It looks like you need that pulley to help fold back the belt to give more crank pulley coverage....

Well, the vacuum pump is no good in the burb. It has a little in and out pulsation on the vacuum line. Since it's an 'F' engine, I think we can do away with the extra stuff that is driven or fail at the worst possible moment. In reading about the vacuum pump delete, I take it that there...

Bus 2 has been a good ride... no problems with it... it's just impractical now. The Mrs doesn't drive it, so it sits a lot. The gas van has had about 1700 miles put on it in the last 2 months. 10 mpg hurts. I said to a co-worker last week in passing (after he just landed a gasser suburban...

Now ladies and gentlemen, proudly on display in the driveway... 97 2500 Suburban 6.5 TD.... 3.73. Gonna have to refreshen some of these old 6.5 skills pretty soon....

90 should be R12. That should be good'n cold. Define working better... like with how cold is your discharge air temperature, and if you are using MAX (recirculate) or Norm (outdoor air source). Norm at idle is not great. Max on the road is very cold. As long as your expectations are real...