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Hmm.. The long bolts that secure the mounts were kind of a PITA for me... between having to hold the nut with a wrench, and the rubber flashing on the threads preventing it from turning easily... made for a long slog. So I just pulled the three bolts that hold the bottom half of each motor...

Interesting... found a set of new military surplus .020 Clevite pistons on eB for ~$160 incl shipping. Sounds great compared to Northern Auto's price of ~$450. Except... seems NA's set includes rings, the HMMV set doesn't. Wanna guess how much a high quality ring set costs? Yep... ~$230...

A few years ago, I bought very cool 1990 4x4 3/4t diesel Sub. It had been a news van, had the side compartment for gennie or inverter/batteries, a full aluminum roof rack with diamond plate platform, and most of the wiring still in place from the removal of the microwave tower. The rack not...

Holy crap would that be a royal PITA. It's not much fun doing it when the motor is on a stand, let alone on your back underneath the beast. And if it's locked, you won't be able to get to at least two of the rod bolts, probably more. So you're still kinda screwed. If you're concerned about...

Mech vs Elect Not if you do it Banks-style, by drilling the mounting plate for a fitting. Right? Or am I overlooking something?

Given the casting date of Sept. 1982, it seems these would have been installed in 1983 model year trucks. Pretty sure that eliminates it from the "red-block program". The coarse injectors threw me for a sec, as I didn't recall that those extended into the 83 models as well. If so, I think...

Fencesitters Anonymous Welcome to the fence. I'm pretty certain my answer is going to be to add an electric pump, but leave the mech pump in place, cap the fittings to keep them clean, and hope that in the event of a lift pump failure, I can move the lines over to the mech pump to get home.

Huh? Really? I could swear I've read a couple of threads where people have done it. Though I think some have to be loosened, then removed with the head, and vice versa for installing. Seems like as long as you can loosen the stud with a double nut at the top, you should be able to remove...

HAR ! Biggest laugh I've had on this board in quite a while, and that's saying something !! Thanks Bison, hope you have a great day! And now to ask the obvious question... ummm, what do you have in mind for all those motors, bk95? Refurb and sale? BK's House O' Diesel? Free short...

Just stumbled across this thread, and thought I'd bring up the listing of the M1009 as a 3/4 ton vehicle. Has anyone measured the thickness of the steel frame to see if these Blazers really used a heavier frame than the civilian versions? The other potential advantage of the cucv's is that...

Studs Thanks so much for the information... much appreciated. A couple more q's? 1. Oil level rose? You noticed a high level before (or without) noticing any milkiness in the oil? Or only noticed in the CDR/tube, but not on the dipstick? 2. What DID you use to seal the studs...

Well yeah... at $200+ per wheel !! :eek:

Not bad.. 929 is pre-squirter and all 12mm main bolts, I believe? I bet if it's crack free and the crank is good, you could get a couple hundred bucks for it at least, whether on CL or by calling your local engine shops. Rebuildable 6.5 short blocks are not easy to come by for these guys...

Probably depends on which block it is. I know that a rebuildable short block goes for $500 from the recycler shops. If you can manage to find a 599 or late 506 from those guys, then it's a score. OTW, not worth the cost of shipping, imho. But then... the Page guy's 300hp half ton is running...

Hmm... like a rear tailgate window perhaps, Missy? ::22:

If they're plastic lenses try Meguire's Mirror Glaze #17 cleaner, followed by #10 polish. Use a slow speed drill with a buffing pad, don't let the plastic get hot. You won't believe they're the same lenses afterwards. Works really, really well. (Shake the bottles thoroughly before dispensing.)

Yep, that one grabbed my eye too. Really curious what drove that decision, and what they were measuring to evaluate the results.

Question ? VERY curious about the following quote: > Re-sealed leaky head studs in engine (these are miserable fasteners to seal). How did this problem make itself apparent, and how did you address it? And most importantly, did it work ????

For future reference, another longtime supplier of dually fenders here: http://www.arrowcraft.com/products.php#fenders They even make a set of fenders for converting your Suburban to a "Twister"-style dually. I was tempted... for a millisecond. Stay with the Sub, Aces. It'll treat you...

My understanding is that there are only two large-scale manufacturers of lead-acid automotive batteries left in the US. I need to look into this further to confirm, but if so, I wonder which supplier Sears is using? Fairly certain that Johnson Controls vacuumed up Delphi and Bosch, which...