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Hey, there’s a friendly name! Good to heard from you.

Because of the potential added wear of the break in oil issue- I would pull an oil sample for the lab results if you haven’t already. Don’t run this oil the normal length. It’s always smart to fit in an extra oil change in the first 3,000 miles- people argue where it should be, but all results...

Has to be a leak somewhere. At this point I would break out the smoke machine. Drain the line and charge it with smoke to find it.

Did you check if the primer pump needs rebuilding? Thats most common error

Yeah- there is a difference in sealant and CRAP TONS OF SEALANT. How much to use- look at the cured sealant on headbolts. Note how far up the threads it goes and that it is not so thick as to cover the thread edges. All you do is fill the void. Unless someone jambs a bunch in the hole...

I put sealant on each bolt for the waterpump. It hurts nothing, keeps rotation force:torque equal on them. I actually asked a GM engineer about that in the 90’s, he said it’s a better practice but costs a couple pennies so they don’t do it. He said the right stuff was better than any of the...

It is not just the pump… how the heater hoses tie in affect it also. This is why there is all the warnings about bypassing a bad heater not just blocking the lines and why in Hummers they have to reroute one hose down into the lower hose. This is a big part of why I was talking about two...

That’s a good way to get all the life from a tire right there!

Big T has it right on start with alignment- it seems to me your backing plate isn’t quite right. Mass production has errors. And ANYTHING CAST that has flashing- always remove it. Anything that helps flow to the passenger side is ok. But remember, just like people trying to port heads make...

That orange one is the “flow kooler” brand. I caught them in lie about the volume it flows. Leroy accepted it was doing the volume the manufacturer says it does, like all their victims. Last I heard from that outfit they were going to go back to testing to get the volume up and verify it...

I have one for my current build. Used them on about half dozen 6.5’s in the past. The real question ones have the drawback of cost and filter replacement, but they work impeccably.

I didn’t notice the fan kicking in at the higher temps, nor when the clutch was kicked in.

So a world of difference in the cko vs real housing… The write ups that people did about them were saying they did ok- maybe the hey didn’t understand at all what the real ones did.

Yes the ignition is a possibility. So is shorted wires in the harness.

I can’t remember- did you ever get the actual provent filter or still the cko one?

Uh-oh! Here comes another work of art!

A service truck. I can’t remember what type starter it was, might have been a delco but idk. This was 20 years ago. Once removed, I hooked up a set of jumper cables to test the starter and it started cranking as soon ground as the main cable was hooked up.

I’ve seen it once on a 6.5. Something went crazy in The solenoid, it cranked until the side posts melted out of the batteries (never starting because the key was off). Two guys went through the harness independently then together- no issues were found. Stater was smoked obviously. New...

Welcome Billy. Tons to learn here that will keep it running well. Marty has the first two things correct for diagnosis.

Yeah, it’s a trade of convenience of use vs effort & cost. For a daily driver truck and a person in the land of ice& snow… might be worth it. A rig that gets occasional use and never in a hurry to get in and go fast- very hard to justify. Imo I would focus on the critical items, then a better...