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Step 11. You can now get to the hvac box and replace the infamous part 52467204 with the two doors in it. I was able to see the problem right away. My defrost door fell out of the pivot hole, its rubber outer gasket is all melted, not a pretty sight: The door does not come by itself as a...

Step 9. Let's get the dash out of the way now. Dash rattle stop screws. There are three of those screws. They are right in the middle of the defroster vent. You can't possibly miss them. Take out all three. NOTE: "Walking J Designs" sells special tabs that go between these screws and the dash...

Step 4. Remove all steering column nuts. There are 4 of them, in two pairs. Upper (further away from the firewall): Lower (closer to the firewall): Step 5. Finish removing the steering column. Remove the air bag fuse (this should probably have been done way earlier). Disconnect...

Here is the step by step with pictures. Step 0. This is serious business :D. Get yourself some plastic trays (harbor freight sells them) for sorting and labeling all the screws, or do what I did and use the small clear plastic sandwich bags. Makes the assembly go _a_lot_ easier: Step...

When I bought this truck, the a/c itself was cold enough but the air was mainly blowing out of the defroster vents, onto the windshield. Everyone will first tell you to check the actuator motor, and you should. There are two plastic linkage arms that are flimsy and need to be set back into...

Well, I like that too, and it's always good to have options. Is this a vehicle-specific product?

My 95 k2500 has a crack in the dash, to the left of center. I am considering putting a 2 or 3 slot gauge pod like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Dual-2-Hole-52mm-Dash-Gauge-Pod-Mount-Holder-/390341629824?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae22c9780#ht_3193wt_948...

How about getting that gmtdscanxxx thing working with a cheap Android tab?

What's the source for replacement cable/winch, looks like my truck's PO had the same issue

Lol just spent a few $$$ on pmd relocation w/new pmd; what's the downside to the redneck method?

Got a 95 Sierra 2500 4wd with a 6.5 td motor. If you look at the truck straight from the back, the driver side sits lower. I heard tell that it's the fuel tank location that causes this after so many years... So, how can I correct this?

Oh yeah, new cap installed this weekend, too.

Havent driven it long enough to definitively say that there are no more leaks. So far so good, but need to go through at least one full tank of diesel to make sure the coolant level is not dropping.... I will post an update.

Found the leak, I hope its the last one. I pulled into a parking lot and saw a bunch of green pouring out. One of the heater hoses that I replaced last year was touching the bottom of the turbo. It would only leak when the engine was hot and NOT running -- my theory is, with the fluid not...

Yes, oil level does not seem to be climbing... using a little bit with every tank, maybe half a pint or so. Green, and when I bought it it had green.

Nah I wired it so that it (1) pumps when the glow plugs are on (2) when the oil pressure is present and (3) if I activate a switch under the hood, for priming. With two relays.

Today: 1) replaced the lift pump and added some creative circuitry that will run it when I turn the key instead of waiting till the oil pressure builds up 2) relocated PMD behind the license plate 3) put in the coolant tabs 4) drove it around for an hour and put it away Next project: driver...

Wow. That is the best explanation. Thanks, Wild Blonde. I am going to go and pick up the restricted one, from Napa. Best to have more flow to the radiator for better cooling performance.

I got the tabs; will stick them in this weekend. I read somewhere that the upper radiator hose is the place to put them.

What is the significance of restricting the orifice when replacing the quick-connect with a brass fitting, does anyone know