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You can have some synthetics that will leak past older seals. If you swap to something like mobile 1 next oil change (it might take 2 changes before all the T6 is gone) it could clean up. With everything cleaned- can you see the source of the leak?

Use engine degreaser is fine, but it isn’t friendly to wiring harness. You’re better off using single fire rather than the three round burst mode here. With the air intake system both pre and post turbo having been a diy project- use caution on cleaner and especially water. Spraying off is...

No sir, No I can’t.

It depends on the type of break in oil used as to how long it stays in there. Over the years Ive seen 10 minute oil to 3,000 mile oil as break in oil, for a while there was synthetic break in oil. It just depends what that engineer was trying to accomplish, and many of them were only trying to...

Hey, there’s a friendly name! Good to heard from you.

Because of the potential added wear of the break in oil issue- I would pull an oil sample for the lab results if you haven’t already. Don’t run this oil the normal length. It’s always smart to fit in an extra oil change in the first 3,000 miles- people argue where it should be, but all results...

Has to be a leak somewhere. At this point I would break out the smoke machine. Drain the line and charge it with smoke to find it.

Did you check if the primer pump needs rebuilding? Thats most common error

Yeah- there is a difference in sealant and CRAP TONS OF SEALANT. How much to use- look at the cured sealant on headbolts. Note how far up the threads it goes and that it is not so thick as to cover the thread edges. All you do is fill the void. Unless someone jambs a bunch in the hole...

I put sealant on each bolt for the waterpump. It hurts nothing, keeps rotation force:torque equal on them. I actually asked a GM engineer about that in the 90’s, he said it’s a better practice but costs a couple pennies so they don’t do it. He said the right stuff was better than any of the...

It is not just the pump… how the heater hoses tie in affect it also. This is why there is all the warnings about bypassing a bad heater not just blocking the lines and why in Hummers they have to reroute one hose down into the lower hose. This is a big part of why I was talking about two...

That’s a good way to get all the life from a tire right there!

Big T has it right on start with alignment- it seems to me your backing plate isn’t quite right. Mass production has errors. And ANYTHING CAST that has flashing- always remove it. Anything that helps flow to the passenger side is ok. But remember, just like people trying to port heads make...

That orange one is the “flow kooler” brand. I caught them in lie about the volume it flows. Leroy accepted it was doing the volume the manufacturer says it does, like all their victims. Last I heard from that outfit they were going to go back to testing to get the volume up and verify it...

I have one for my current build. Used them on about half dozen 6.5’s in the past. The real question ones have the drawback of cost and filter replacement, but they work impeccably.

I didn’t notice the fan kicking in at the higher temps, nor when the clutch was kicked in.

So a world of difference in the cko vs real housing… The write ups that people did about them were saying they did ok- maybe the hey didn’t understand at all what the real ones did.

Yes the ignition is a possibility. So is shorted wires in the harness.

I can’t remember- did you ever get the actual provent filter or still the cko one?

Uh-oh! Here comes another work of art!