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5.7 diesel up and running

I think I have it figured out.Here’s how it sounds now.Its two videos in one basically.The first video shows no funnel in place for pouring in transmission fluid.Its also before I used the liquimoly diesel injector cleaner.The second video has the funnel in place and the liquimoly as been added to the tank with 5 gallons of fuel blended in.It seems to run smoother now.The injectors were given a clean bill of health a couple years ago but have been sitting until now.

 
Here are some additional details.A milodon stock capacity oil pan closed up the lower end with a trw standard volume oil pump.The crank is a .010/.010 with a new sealed power camshaft and nos ford 7.3 powerstroke lifters from 1994.They use the same lifters as the 6.2/6.5 diesels as well.Arp main studs,arp rod and head bolts were used also.New wolverine brand rockers and bridges are in place.

The machine shop bored it .030 over with zollner pistons,sealed power rings.Clevite rod bushings,All new valves and replaceable hardened valve seats.New valve guides were inserted also.A cloyes timing set finished things off with a gates standard rotation water pump.

The injection pump is a reman 3916 with all new pencil injectors.Bosch 80034 glow plugs were used with some brass T fittings I found on eBay for a Deere diesel tractor application.A new genuine gm vacuum pump was found on eBay along with a reman gear reduction starter.

The water pump pulley is from a Chevy 350 but the lower crank pulley is from a late 80s/early 90s 302 mustang engine.The fuel filters are a acdelco tp1069 which is the primary 14 micron and the secondary is a Napa 3472 and is a 4 or 5 micron going from memory.The filter housing is a genuine cav/delphi unit I bought from eBay I would say about 20yrs ago.It has the conversion adapters so I could use spin on fuel filters.I’ll try to find a few pictures so you guys can see it a little better.

The reason for the excess idler pulleys is because I wanted to keep using the standard rotation water pump since it has a much larger impeller vs the 4.3 diesel reverse rotation version.If I used the 4.3 water pump there would be much less idler pulleys present.I also wanted to get as much belt to pulley contact as I could to prevent slippage under load in regard to the water pump pulley and crank pulley.
 
Here are pictures showing the moroso oil filter adapter so I could use the oil cooler.The electric fan is also wired up now with a thermal switch upon the oil line.
 

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The issues of the 5.7 are known, so hopefully you can get a long life from this one. Is this the DX model?

I used to recommend the Bosch 80034 glow plugs for this and the 6.2/6.5. I stopped when a lot of issues started popping up, including when mine snapped an element off when running and destroyed my piston. Pics available if you want.
I would hate to see all your effort & $$ go away over a glow plug.
AC Delco 60G is the only one I recommend now- and ONLY from an Authorized Dealer. So many knock offs out there and the few dollars saved simply isn’t worth the risks.


The fuel filtration looks great and filter size should be quite some time between changes.
I would suggest putting in a FASS water separation filter as well. And be liberal with the fuel lube additive, that IP was more susceptible to damage that the later DB pump
 
The issues of the 5.7 are known, so hopefully you can get a long life from this one. Is this the DX model?

I used to recommend the Bosch 80034 glow plugs for this and the 6.2/6.5. I stopped when a lot of issues started popping up, including when mine snapped an element off when running and destroyed my piston. Pics available if you want.
I would hate to see all your effort & $$ go away over a glow plug.
AC Delco 60G is the only one I recommend now- and ONLY from an Authorized Dealer. So many knock offs out there and the few dollars saved simply isn’t worth the risks.


The fuel filtration looks great and filter size should be quite some time between changes.
I would suggest putting in a FASS water separation filter as well. And be liberal with the fuel lube additive, that IP was more susceptible to damage that the later DB pump
Thanks will.This engine is the DX block.It came out of a Cadillac Fleetwood.I think the filtration is pretty good like you said.The milodon oil pan also has a magnetic drain plug in it too.

The Bosch plugs I used are over 10yrs old that I got from eBay brand new.I checked the code on each box and went to the Bosch website and it says they are legitimate.I wouldn’t want for something to go wrong either.I have a lot of money into this.The injectors alone were $1500.And the list just keeps climbing.If I ever need to buy glow plugs again I’ll go with the 60G like you suggested.In another couple of years I bet no parts will be found for these.I’m told felpro has stopped making the intake manifold gaskets for these.Not sure how true it is but seems some gaskets are getting harder to find.

I had new hydraulic hoses made up a few weeks ago.I was going to use the ptfe hose with the an fittings but I didn’t trust it.I didn’t want to risk a oil line blowing off ruining what I have.

I’m hoping tomorrow to get the brake pedal connected to the hydro boost pushrod and get the brakes bled.
 
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I also used a milodon oil pump driveshaft as the stock shafts were known to round out.Milodon is pretty much the best in the business when it comes down to oil pump driveshafts and oil pans.I like the products they offer for Oldsmobile engines.
 
I’m heading to a local machine shop tomorrow to get an alignment washer made with a built in lip to be sure the 302 mustang crank pulley stays centered within the olds harmonic balancer.The mustang pulley has a larger hole than what the olds pulley had so I dont want the pulley to slip and go off center.
 
The pulley and balancer are now at the shop.I was quoted about $250 to make the alignment collar.I told the machinist to go ahead and do whatever needed to be done.Hoping to have it back sometime soon.
 
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