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Rings and bearings while I have the engine out?

Thanks, Will. The big question for me is whether it is necessary to place the engine before going for the final torque. It'll be a bear to try to get at the bolts and nuts in order to do that once the engine's in the bay.
 
mjmmjm said:
Thanks, Will. The big question for me is whether it is necessary to place the engine before going for the final torque. It'll be a bear to try to get at the bolts and nuts in order to do that once the engine's in the bay.
Click to expand...
Practice.
Drill several holes in a plate of steel. About 3/8ths inch thick should be good enough.
Figure the diameter of the bolts in question and the thread count.
Tap the holes. Use bolts of the same hardness as what the factory used.
Place a hard washer under the bolt head.
Torque the bolts to whats specified.
Now Use Your ratchet and put pressure on the bolts into a tightening fashion.
Get a feel for how much pressure you need to apply to get the socket/bolt to budge.
That should give You a pretty good feel for the required force it takes to turn that many Ft LBS of torque.
 
Good morning. I'm about to get my injectors back from the shop (new nozzles). The tech said they had a lot of water in them. I know my tank was leaking and am replacing it now - I'll flush the whole system. What's a good way to clean out the pump? I read somewhere that a gallon of ATF would do it? Any other ideas? What concentration?

Also, does anyone have a (conservative) maximum boost number I can set my DIY turbo master at? I don't think overboost was what caused the blown head gasket, but I want to make sure I stay out of the danger zone. Other than the turbo master, main studs, and out-of-tank fuel filter, this is a stock setup, including head bolts (maybe I should've paid the extra for studs).
 
Does anyone know where this ring terminal ground on the passenger side attaches? Of course I didn't take enough photos when I took the engine out.

PXL_20250727_220314799~2 (Large).jpg
 
That attached originally to the back of the cylinder head on the passenger side.
Uses a very short bolt.
I dont know the dimensions.
I do believe that @WarWagon used to post about adding grounds or not attaching grounding wires to the proper locations and how it could cause some type of an electrical phenomenon but I dont remember the details.
 
And never ever ever leave off that 23502557 bracket on the back of the starter.
Starter mounting bolt holes will bust out if ever that is left offt.
 
MrMarty51 said:
That attached originally to the back of the cylinder head on the passenger side.
Uses a very short bolt.
I dont know the dimensions.
I do believe that @WarWagon used to post about adding grounds or not attaching grounding wires to the proper locations and how it could cause some type of an electrical phenomenon but I dont remember the details.
Click to expand...
I added plenty of grounds and never experienced any issues
 
I got the engine in last night, but it's sitting about 1/4"-3/8" off the trans. It's resting on the new mounts fine, just not flush with the trans. The block alignment dowels are started in the holes on the bell housing, and the torque converter round center is started in the recess in the middle of the flex plate - just not flush. Maybe I nudged the whole driveline back a bit when I was getting the engine in?

Will the block-to-trans bolts drive it home, or would that be looking at stripped threads? Anybody else run into this?
 
It sounds like the torque converter isn’t all the way back on the shaft. You have to spin it while jiggling up and down slightly while pushing it in. 3 ledges will be felt during install, it sounds like yours is in only 2. Having done hundreds there is still the occasional one that will take 20 minutes of fighting under the truck.

A page that should be included in every manual:
IMG_4022.png
 
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