Grading

[Big T]

I need to grade a slope away from the house for code on drainage. I do not have an angle grader, but it would be impeded by AC and Water filters anyway. Suggestion was to screed it and roll it by hand. Also suggested that I install drain line first, then use the extra dirt to establish and screed the slope. Thought was to use 2x4 at the house to establish the height and another away from it to establish the bottom of the slope and use a board across the two to screed it. Then follow up with a hand pulled, water-filled drum to compact it. Once that is done, fencing can go in.

What do the pros here think?

 

[ak diesel driver]

Sounds like a lot of hand work for someone who has a box grader. Establish the grade where your tractor tires will run, either with dirt or 2xs and use the box blade. You can cut lower than the tractor tires if needed. All your establishing is the slope

 

[Big T]

Sounds like a lot of hand work for someone who has a box grader. Establish the grade where your tractor tires will run, either with dirt or 2xs and use the box blade. You can cut lower than the tractor tires if needed. All your establishing is the slope

Box grader has no angle adjustment to it. It sets a flat level grade.

 

[jrsavoie]

Box grader has no angle adjustment to it. It sets a flat level grade.

If you get the areas where the tires run set to slope. You can set the box and not worry about adjusting it.

 

[Big T]

If you get the areas where the tires run set to slope. You can set the box and not worry about adjusting it.

Yeah I can see that, but I need to go all the way next to the house, so there will be hand work.

 

[DieselAmateur]

does one of the vertical links on your 3pt hitch arms have a turnbuckle/ telescoping function? You can adjust the angle/ pitch of the box grader to a certain extent using that adjustment

 

[Big T]

does one of the vertical links on your 3pt hitch arms have a turnbuckle/ telescoping function? You can adjust the angle/ pitch of the box grader to a certain extent using that adjustment

Yes it does. I am new to this, so all of these are good suggestions. I still won’t be able to do this between the ac unit and the gate, and between the ac unit and the water filters. Will be able to do it outside them and the section below them. This should make it a lot easier.

 

[DieselAmateur]

another great technique for finishing grading is to back drag with the bucket using the float function. Are you familiar with this feature on your tractor? Being relatively "new" it should have it. With the loader all the way down you push the joystick up and it pops into position for the float function, it applies some downward pressure but moves up and down with the contour of the land so it doesn't dig in a ton. Putting a final finish on a grade/ landscape is infinitely easier back dragging and you cover your tire tracks too.

 

[MrMarty51]

With the bucket cutting edge pointed straight down, and, the arms in float position, then getting close to the end of the run, start tipping the bucket so it rides flat against the ground, like in load position.
That produces a nice smooth finish once a little practice has been accomplished.

 

[Big T]

another great technique for finishing grading is to back drag with the bucket using the float function. Are you familiar with this feature on your tractor? Being relatively "new" it should have it. With the loader all the way down you push the joystick up and it pops into position for the float function, it applies some downward pressure but moves up and down with the contour of the land so it doesn't dig in a ton. Putting a final finish on a grade/ landscape is infinitely easier back dragging and you cover your tire tracks too.

Not sure I have a float function. I have a 6-position lever to set the height and a locking stop to set the low position.

 

[ak diesel driver]

On my backhoe after you push the lever forward to lower the bucket you push a little harder and it'll detent into the float position. It will stay there until you pull it to raise the bucket . Depending on the shape of the bucket ( mine has sort of a squareish back ) you can play with the bucket curl and pull more or less material as you back up.

 

[Big T]

On my backhoe after you push the lever forward to lower the bucket you push a little harder and it'll detent into the float position. It will stay there until you pull it to raise the bucket . Depending on the shape of the bucket ( mine has sort of a squareish back ) you can play with the bucket curl and pull more or less material as you back up.

I pulled the backhoe off to install the box grader. Controls for the backhoe go with it.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I was doing a large garage and had to remove 2-3 feet of overburden and replace with gravel. About halfway through the dumptruck driver stopped and got out and came over to me and asked, Where's your dozer. Told him I didn't have one and he couldn't believe I was getting the pad leveled out that good without one. It's mostly about seat time and having an eye for grade.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I pulled the backhoe off to install the box grader. Controls for the backhoe go with it.

No I'm talking about the front bucket as was DA

 

[jrsavoie]

No I'm talking about the front bucket as was DA

The lever controller for the front bucket should also have a float position

 

[Big T]

The lever controller for the front bucket should also have a float position

I will check the manual, but I don’t believe it does.

 

[jrsavoie]

I will check the manual, but I don’t believe it does.

My Kubota does, but it's harder to feel for than other machines I've run

 

[schiker]

You should only have to meet minimum slope. 10% for 10’ I think is what they want here but as long as water doesn’t hold 10’ perimeter of wall and runs away many inspectors don’t notice here as they get mulch or bushes etc. I wouldn’t worry about getting it too accurate. A little more isn’t that bad if you can control erosion. What is your code?

And depends on amount of drainage coming your way. Almost looks like you need to re-establish some swell from neighbors slope? Where are yours and neighbors down spouts going? How big of drain area? How bad is rainfall or any current issues?

String and string level could probably get some points to measure. But best thing is to video a good rain if you have a runoff problem. A few stakes to keep reference can help.

Never tried a drum roller. Mostly seen them used to flatten sod (and it’s usually damp and squishy topsoil). Don’t know but don’t think they will really compact soil????. Probably need a hand tamp or compactor if you fill much? .

 

[Big T]

10% over 10’ would be 10” of drop. I am limited on the high side next to the house by the height of the foundations for the AC and Water Softener units. On the low side at the fence line I am limited by the neighbors slope to the fence line. I am not going to hog out more dirt along the fence line to achieve a 10” drop. Best I can do will be like 4” to 5”. Their code came after this property was developed.

Most of the water comes from the street. Plan is to stop it there with brick wall with wrought iron fencing along with raised (above the street level) aprons to keep the water from the street from going down our property:

A good rainfall happens like every 10 years when there’s an El Niño cycle in the Pacific like two years ago. That water used to go down our driveway to the east, but it broke through the swale at the water meter to the west.

This pic shows the same street water going down alongside the house during that same event:



I intend to address this through a combination of wall out front, grading and below surface pipe. All downspouts will be connected to this below surface pipe.

 

[ak diesel driver]

10% is alot same as a 10% grade on a mountain road. 10' in 100'. 2% is more normal