Recent content by ShawnR

This is more of an informational post instead of a question. I snapped my CV joint a couple of weeks back (passenger side) and went about replacing it. Popped off the tie rod end and the sway bar end link and replacing the halfshaft itself wasn't really a big job. I ended up cutting the sway...

I carefully looked at (& smelled) the exhaust today at idle and couldn't smell anything at all (diesel or oil) and there was no smoke to be seen. Coolant level was normal & oil was just a little lower than I remember, but still in the acceptable range on the dipstick. What color is the smoke...

That would probably explain why my fan pulley sticks out more than the other pulleys and I am eating belts. I'm not sure what to do about it either. I can also confirm that a 6.5 oil pan won't fit a 6.2 block. There was about a 1/4 inch gap between the pan & block at the rear main seal.

I recently bought one of those little laser / infared thermometers. I will try that to see if there is a difference. I have noticed a little white smoke at idle, but I haven't smelled it yet. It is never really bad, but it is there and it bothers me.

It is a fresh remanfactured engine so valves and rings should be good. I'm not losing any coolant or oil, so an bad injector is about the only option left. I am looking at plans to build a pop tester on google at the moment.

I am having an uncomfortable amount of white smoke even after fully warmed up. I was towing another truck today and was able to see it in the daylight against the black of the trailer. It had been starting a little hard and smoking more on startup than it should. All glows and wires have been...

If you pull the actuator out of the front housing and stick 12 volts to it, it should "extend" as the fluid inside it heats up. If it is bad, replace it with an updated one as indicated in the other threads. You won't regret it.

I don't ever remember it running with the glow plugs either, but mine doesn't even kick on when I am cranking until the oil pressure comes up. Tomorrow morning I am going to hotwire the LP on before I even try to start. I want to find out if it starts any better (or smokes less) if there is...

I put in a new relay and the LP still doesn't kick on with the glow plugs. So whatever is supposed to turn the relay on with the glow plugs isn't working. Anybody know where to start checking? Somewhere between the GP controller and the relay? I am going to replace the OPS too (with an AC...

I just went out and checked. PSI was back down to 0, no big shock there since I didn't have hose clamps on the gauge. I turn on the key, GP light comes on, no lift pump. I start cranking after GP light is out, no lift pump, fuel pressure pulling slight vacuum. Keep cranking (5-6...

I checked for voltage to the relay and these 2 contacts had power. I opened up the T- valve and fuel came squirting out while it was running. Huh? It didn't do that earlier in the day. So anyway, I have stuck a pressure gauge on it (reads 8psi at idle) and I am going to let it sit...

I think I have narrowed down my hard starting / smoking problem. Truck will start, but starts hard and smokes (white / blue) a lot for 2 - 3 minutes. All GP's are new and I have confirmed voltage to all plugs. The truck will finally start, run for a few seconds, then die. you can restart, it...

I played with the pump timing on my 93 today and it acted similiar when it was retarded. It would idle fine, but when I gave it any fuel, the white smike would puff out. I advanced it back (toward drivers side) until no more white smoke. It is still more retarded that it was before I started...

I was wondering this myself. Fuel injection line should be plenty tough enough and is a heck of a lot easier to work with.

The wiring book I have is just like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-CHEVROLET-TRUCK-ELECTRICAL-AND-WIRING-DIAGRAMS-_W0QQitemZ350169203422QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090221?IMSfp=TL0902211910009r109 As for your melted connector. I just checked mine and I am confident it is for the...