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1999 chevy suburban 6.5 turbo diesel

S

SUBURBAN99

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I did a complete frame off with new rebuilt motor & tranny . All new suspension everything new. Ran great put about 8,000 miles on with all the oil changes and filters. i has a the first PMD go out which was on the pump. The place that did my build said if I relocate the PMD it would cancel my warranty. after the original PMD failed I unpluged the PMD leaving the old one on the pump relocated it. Everything ran great. The other day I went back through all my grounds to make sure theu had metal to metal contact beacuse once in a while i would turn the key and nothing would happen. I replaced the ingition switch still the same situation. So after redoing the grounds the engine was running and then stop like turning of the key. it stated and then would turn off. now nothing the starter just cranks but it will not fire.plenty of fuel up to the high pressure pump. lossen one injector line at the injector no fuel dry as a bone. changed out three different PMD's that are brand new out of the box same situation. pulled the solenoid fuel shut of used anther one without the plunger no change. also plugged in the PMD right at the pump no change. any help be great. I'm thinking my high pressure pump has failed.
 

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Any codes?
Bad pin out from the IP Harness to the PMD is possible. Have you checked voltages at the harness?

Test to determine working PMD Harness
Pin outs on the PMD Harness
Pin Wire Color Voltage Source/Connection
A Light Green .05 VDC ECM
B Red 0 VDC Fuel Solenoid
C Black 0 VDC ECM
D Pink 12 VDC Underhood Fuse Fuel Sol Fuse (Connects to Shut Off)
E Red 5 VDC ECM
F Black 0 VDC Fuel Solenoid

Here's a couple of write ups from past trouble shooting articles that will help. Note: FSD and PMD are the same, article will explain it. I think TurbineDoc might have written at least one of them up.

With pressure at the IP inlet, the LP is working (I see the OPS extension in the picture). With three swapped PMD extension cables and rotating out PMDs, it certainly leans towards a possible IP replacement since there's a threat of voiding a warranty.
Whoever rebuilt the engine may need to be the ones to address about the issue no start / shut down issue, but at least you'll have a better idea of what's going on and just start shotgunning part at it.
 

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Thank you Im getting ready to pull the engine harness apart luckily I did a new engine harness from Leroy diesel so the harness on top. Easy to get to. I appreciate the information. I will keep you all posted
 
SUBURBAN99 said:
I DONT UNDERSTAND The Raptor series pumps are not 'flow on fail.
Click to expand...
The original lift pumps, if they failed, the injection pump is capable of pulling fuel through those pumps and continue running, thus, destroying the IP in the process.
Thats what was known as a flow on fail pump.
That is why it is suggested that there should be an electronical fuel pressure gauge sending unit mounted right at the inlet port of the injection pump and the gauge in a very visible position. It is also suggested to not run a live fuel pressure tube/hose into the cab. Its a fire safety thing. The fuel pressure sending unit will require a snubber so be sure to get that in the parts list too.
 
I see MrMarty51 already responded but, I'm too lazy to re-edit this a second time.

So, to reiterate OEM pumps, and some aftermarket lift pumps, should they fail will still allow the IP to draw fuel from the tank and, therefore, keep running. Hence, "Flow on Fail."

When a non-flow on fail pump dies, fuel flow STOPs at the LP.

Which is why one needs to / should have a fuel pressure gauge they can monitor. I've used ISSPRO in the past and currently Autometer gauges with electronic senders so there's no worries about a diesel bath.

When my DF-165 aftermarket pump failed, I noticed right away that my pressure had dropped to 0 but, since its a flow on fail, I was able to get home and affect repairs.
Not all aftermarket pumps will do this. Air Dog makes a couple series of pumps. The DF series are flow on fail, the Raptor's are not. The fact that you have pressure at the IP indicates to me that your Raptor is still functioning.
 
question on checking the follwing with a voltage meter. back pin it with the key on and use what as a ground?

Test to determine working PMD Harness
Pin outs on the PMD Harness
Pin Wire Color Voltage Source/Connection
A Light Green .05 VDC ECM
B Red 0 VDC Fuel Solenoid
C Black 0 VDC ECM
D Pink 12 VDC Underhood Fuse Fuel Sol Fuse (Connects to Shut Off)
E Red 5 VDC ECM
F Black 0 VDC Fuel Solenoid
 
Sounds like you're on point with the pressure.
For a ground, you can use anything convenient to the IP Harness... the intake manifold bolts will do. After checking the extended harness, if there's an anomaly, check the harness at the IP. That will confirm or deny the extended harness' reliability. Check pins/blades to ensure they're straight too. Easy to bend 'em, especially the aftermarket ones.
 
Paveltolz said:
I see MrMarty51 already responded but, I'm too lazy to re-edit this a second time.

So, to reiterate OEM pumps, and some aftermarket lift pumps, should they fail will still allow the IP to draw fuel from the tank and, therefore, keep running. Hence, "Flow on Fail."

When a non-flow on fail pump dies, fuel flow STOPs at the LP.

Which is why one needs to / should have a fuel pressure gauge they can monitor. I've used ISSPRO in the past and currently Autometer gauges with electronic senders so there's no worries about a diesel bath.

When my DF-165 aftermarket pump failed, I noticed right away that my pressure had dropped to 0 but, since its a flow on fail, I was able to get home and affect repairs.
Not all aftermarket pumps will do this. Air Dog makes a couple series of pumps. The DF series are flow on fail, the Raptor's are not. The fact that you have pressure at the IP indicates to me that your Raptor is still functioning.
Click to expand...
Would you post a link to the fuel pressure gauge You use?
 
jrsavoie said:
Would you post a link to the fuel pressure gauge You use?
Click to expand...
The AutoMeters are a bit pricy but, cheaper than cleaning up after a diesel bath.

I use the Cobalt Series, 0-30 PSI, Blue LED. Currently $245 from AutoMeter.
www.autometer.com

2-1/16" FUEL PRESSURE, 0-30 PSI, STEPPER MOTOR, COBALT

6161 Gauge, Fuel Pressure, 2 1/16", 30psi, Digital Stepper Motor, Cobalt
www.autometer.com www.autometer.com
You may be able to find them at another distributor such as Summit or Jegs for less.

They have many other offerings in 0-35 and 0-15 psi.

Gauges: Car, Truck, Digital, Racing & More | Auto Meter

Performance aftermarket gauges & kits for cars, trucks, & more. Shop our inventory of electric, mechanical, & digital gauges. Free shipping US orders +$99!
www.autometer.com www.autometer.com
 
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