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Electric Fan clutch

Some data points that may be helpful.

I bought four different electro viscous fan clutches and tried them all out on my truck. This is what I found:

AC Delco 20788261 - Very good lock-up (best of all of the ones I tried), but takes a very long time to disengage, if ever.

Hayden 3222 - Rated for severe duty. Good lock-up, takes between 5 and 40 minutes to disengage.

Four Seasons 46115 - Rated for severe duty. Visually identical to the Hayden in all ways (including QC markings). Likely from the same manufacturing source as Hayden. Disengages within 1 minute (usually less than 30 seconds).

GMB 930-2630 - Leaked internal fluid on first use. No official rating on manufacturer site, but RockAuto and other parts supplier web sites says it is for standard duty. Visual inspection indicates it is not severe duty. It never locked up for me, probably due to the fluid leak.

Due to how quickly the Four Seasons version disengages, it's the one I'm leaving installed. I prefer the higher lock-up of the AC Delco, but the fact that it almost never disengages was unacceptable for my purposes.

I could find no visual differences between the Four Seasons and Hayden clutches. I believe that Four Seasons owns Hayden, so it would make sense that their clutches are identical. But, the two clutches performed differently. All I can guess is that their QC is poor, or I got really unlucky.

Comparison photos are attached.
 

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when I installed the GM electro clutch on my 95, I had to stop the engine and wrap something around the fan and start it holding the fan in place to break it loose. once I did that a couple times it began to lock and unlock like it should. once locked up they usually will take a good amount of resistance like revving up around 2k RPM to break loose same as a regular fan clutch. the only difference in these clutches is it has a heating element in front of the spring steel to lock it up on demand. it has to cool before it begins the unlock process.
 
So anyone have any feedback on what they feel is a good controller?
That Harris unit seems to function just phine so far.
The LED indicator lamp lets me know when it kicks in and I used the OBD2 reader temp. Sender when I did the initial adjust procedure.
Set mine to kick in at 198*F and its still spot on.
 
I've been running this one from Hayden since 2023 without any issues on my 95. Though I did drill and tap 1/8" threads in my crossover. it has a trigger wire that ties into the AC so the fan is on when the compressor is running. I have that wired into the fan pressure switch off the back of the compressor so it only turns on when the pressure is high.

1779971397041.png
 
I've been running this one from Hayden since 2023 without any issues on my 95. Though I did drill and tap 1/8" threads in my crossover. it has a trigger wire that ties into the AC so the fan is on when the compressor is running. I have that wired into the fan pressure switch off the back of the compressor so it only turns on when the pressure is high.

View attachment 99588
I think I made a mistake doing my post.
I think the controller on my system might be a Hayden.
I too drilled and tapped the thermostat cross over to have a port for the sensor.
 
@dbrannon79 which wire on the pressure switch for the a/c compressor did you splice into? I have an aftermarket pigtail for the purple pressure sensor and both wires are white. On the plug itself one terminal is "A" and the other is "B"

PXL_20260321_220658810.jpg

I have the Hayden controller but haven't installed it yet. Well it's threaded into the bock off plate in the #8 head but that's it so far. I'm attempting to fit the first gen Duramax CAC and rad in my k3500 and just found out the hard way that a 4 core radiator plus the CAC won't clear the electric fan clutch or the regular one. I ordered a 2 core and 3 core. The electric fan clutch is a full inch taller than the stock fan clutch. Still need to decide if I want to run the electric fan clutch and smaller radiator or a modified for earlier engagement stock fan clutch and a slightly thicker radiator

fan clearance.jpg
 
@dbrannon79 which wire on the pressure switch for the a/c compressor did you splice into? I have an aftermarket pigtail for the purple pressure sensor and both wires are white. On the plug itself one terminal is "A" and the other is "B"

View attachment 99590

I have the Hayden controller but haven't installed it yet. Well it's threaded into the bock off plate in the #8 head but that's it so far. I'm attempting to fit the first gen Duramax CAC and rad in my k3500 and just found out the hard way that a 4 core radiator plus the CAC won't clear the electric fan clutch or the regular one. I ordered a 2 core and 3 core. The electric fan clutch is a full inch taller than the stock fan clutch. Still need to decide if I want to run the electric fan clutch and smaller radiator or a modified for earlier engagement stock fan clutch and a slightly thicker radiator

View attachment 99593
I had to install new poly engine mounts to get the engine high enough for the fan to clear the lower fan shroud.
Even then I still used the die grinder and removed a slight amount of shroud to be on the safe side.
 
I had to install new poly engine mounts to get the engine high enough for the fan to clear the lower fan shroud.
Even then I still used the die grinder and removed a slight amount of shroud to be on the safe side.
I will have to look at it, from what I recall I powered the ac on and one side has power on the connector. connect the non-powered side to the controller.
 
Make sure you have the right pressure switch on the compressor. mine had a clutch cut out switch which I had to trade for the iirc purple connector switch that was for a 454 gasser truck with the electric condenser fan.
 
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