@dbrannon79 Will a tech 2 scanner tell me that info?
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The dragging saga continues.
- Thread starter Stoney
- Start date
@jrsavoie the line didn't look collapsed but under pressure it may have . I noticed the big crack in it where I could see inside of it and didn't think to look any further. Me being stupid.... I didn't honestly think a whole lot of it because I figured it's just a return line to send fuel back to the tank. I'm going to look and see if the hose will is talking about is within my budget..I still have the truck running off a transfer tank remember, not a regular tank..
I Looked at some line last week that @Will L. had said to get to run from the tank to the engine, our local Napa did not have the r9 that he suggested all they had was r14 and it was seven bucks a foot. Needless to say I did not buy it.. to go to the engine and back would probably take 25 ft or more.
I Looked at some line last week that @Will L. had said to get to run from the tank to the engine, our local Napa did not have the r9 that he suggested all they had was r14 and it was seven bucks a foot. Needless to say I did not buy it.. to go to the engine and back would probably take 25 ft or more.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Honestly I don't know. I seem to recall someone here saying there is more to that selector switch on the trans shift shaft than it just telling the PCM what gear it's in and to not crank when in gear. I would need to look at the wire diagram for it to see what signals it gives. other electronic trans I have messed with (gassers) it only did just that so there really wasn't a wrong way to install.
I am still leaving my poker chips on the table with the LP not working like it should.
@dbrannon79 I've often thought that the lift pump was acting funny. Like perhaps it was not running at full power or maybe loosing power occasionally. But everytime I get under truck with it running I can feel the pump vibrating if I put my hand on it. But maybe that doesn't mean it's working at full power? I just run stock pump a/c Delco or Delphi which ever I can get at the time when it goes bad . I've changed it probably a half dozen times since the truck has had this problem so I don't think it would be the pump itself, maybe the wiring going to it? Or a switch or sensor that sends the right juice to it?
I gotta figure out how to put in a fuel pressure gauge and try to find one.. one of the local stores should sell them shouldn't they? Shouldn't be very expensive.
I gotta figure out how to put in a fuel pressure gauge and try to find one.. one of the local stores should sell them shouldn't they? Shouldn't be very expensive.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I'm still surprised nobody sells a fuel pressure gauge kit
Keep in mind, I'm still not 100 percent convinced that hose was the problem. The truck ran like a beast all day yesterday, but that has happened before.( although not usually as good as it was yesterday) i kept leaning towards a electrical issue because it usually seemed to run better more often when it's raining. So I thought maybe water was helping get a connection. ( That's just a theory) although that could coincide with what you're saying about the pump. Could possibly be that when it's raining the water helps it get a better ground or signal since water conducts electricity.
What would happen if I just unplugged the ip and ran a hot and ground wire straight to it with a toggle switch on it to turn it on and off?
What would happen if I just unplugged the ip and ran a hot and ground wire straight to it with a toggle switch on it to turn it on and off?
jrsavoie
Recruit
Yes. I was referring to an installation kit, with the T that goes at the Injection Pump.
Everything that's needed.
Search fuel pressure gauge.
There's been a few threads with info.
It's very possible that there's something better available than the search with yield.
Hopefully someone will chime in with good recommendations.
It needs to be a low pressure gauge. Maybe digital would be a good choice.
Last edited:
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Mechanical fuel pressure gauges are relatively cheap but the drawback is fuel in the cab if you mount it inside the cab. They do make an isolator for them but then it's as expensive as an electric one. The electric ones run about $250 last time I looked.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Check on ordering the R9 online. Maybe check other parts stores.
I'm not sure how cost effective it would be to run a piece of 3/8" steel tubing for as far as you can go. And just run hose on each end, to and from the tubing.
I never liked the idea of running rubber line that far.
It's definitely faster and a labor saver.
I've just had too many incidents with things that should never happen under a vehicle
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Fuel pressure gauge KIT doesn’t and won’t exist because all the parts are readily available and cost vs appearance is too much choice- vendors would have to stock up in thousands of dollars for people to occasionally buy one kit.
modmafia.com
Thats the adapter you need. They are buying it and putting a markup on it. They need to make money to be worth their time. You can go find it but it will take time to figure it out. When broke you have to become resourceful- people with more money than time simply buy it.
As stated, decent electric gauges price about $250. I have been considering buying a single wire oil pressure sensor and digital gauge to try it . They can be had for under $50.
Getting one that is accurate in the 0-15 psi range is the key.
Having it “work” versus having it work right is critical. Cheap gauges are often wrong.
Having a $100 gauge that is telling you pressure is ok when it is not does not save you money or time. It will cost much more money than saved long term.
Lift pump. Buying a Fass lift pump is a great solution. Leroy sells them for $450. Too much, right? You said changed 6 times. The AC Delco EP158 cheapest right now is around $60. 60x6=360 and the next one is 60x7=$420. In two years you’ll replace it again 60x8=$480.
I grew up removing rocker arms, lifters and push rods making 8 cylinders in 7 or 6 cylinder so I could drive it. I had a D50 truck where the radiator had to be in the bed because that where I could fit the only available free radiator and used old chain link fence posts to run the radiator hoses underneath the truck.
Different truck i had a 100 gallon water tank in back because the cracked head kept loosing coolant. So I drove and had to refill the water everywhere I went- 20 miles then add water. Up to speed the kill engine and coast as far as possible all the time. Thats a pain when the water tank is in the bed and thats where you sleep at night. So I get it.
But there comes a point when you have to make the investment or jump to a different rig. If you are not making your own fuel with this truck and can’t afford these repairs- you are in the wrong truck. Same truck but gasoline is far cheaper over a 5 year period if you are not towing 5,000 lbs trailer frequently. Side hustle somewhere has to happen to get out of it. Two full time jobs suck, but it fixes cash flow quicker. And if you can’t find two full time jobs to nail down for a 3-5 month period- sell that house as is and move because the area will not support you. Land is free in the sahara desert, but you will die there.
Fuel Pressure Gauge Adapter
A fuel pressure gauge is essential to monitoring the health of your fuel delivery system. Mod Mafia makes it easy to add this important gauge to your Hummer / H1…
modmafia.com
As stated, decent electric gauges price about $250. I have been considering buying a single wire oil pressure sensor and digital gauge to try it . They can be had for under $50.
Getting one that is accurate in the 0-15 psi range is the key.
Having it “work” versus having it work right is critical. Cheap gauges are often wrong.
Having a $100 gauge that is telling you pressure is ok when it is not does not save you money or time. It will cost much more money than saved long term.
Lift pump. Buying a Fass lift pump is a great solution. Leroy sells them for $450. Too much, right? You said changed 6 times. The AC Delco EP158 cheapest right now is around $60. 60x6=360 and the next one is 60x7=$420. In two years you’ll replace it again 60x8=$480.
I grew up removing rocker arms, lifters and push rods making 8 cylinders in 7 or 6 cylinder so I could drive it. I had a D50 truck where the radiator had to be in the bed because that where I could fit the only available free radiator and used old chain link fence posts to run the radiator hoses underneath the truck.
Different truck i had a 100 gallon water tank in back because the cracked head kept loosing coolant. So I drove and had to refill the water everywhere I went- 20 miles then add water. Up to speed the kill engine and coast as far as possible all the time. Thats a pain when the water tank is in the bed and thats where you sleep at night. So I get it.
But there comes a point when you have to make the investment or jump to a different rig. If you are not making your own fuel with this truck and can’t afford these repairs- you are in the wrong truck. Same truck but gasoline is far cheaper over a 5 year period if you are not towing 5,000 lbs trailer frequently. Side hustle somewhere has to happen to get out of it. Two full time jobs suck, but it fixes cash flow quicker. And if you can’t find two full time jobs to nail down for a 3-5 month period- sell that house as is and move because the area will not support you. Land is free in the sahara desert, but you will die there.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
if you don't want to spend much on one at the moment, Harbor Freight has a fuel pressure tester that comes with a Tee and a gauge. you could install this Tee and have the gauge run up under the hood to the windshield where you can see it, then go about your daily duties while watching it.
@dbrannon79 . That is the kind of answer I was looking for.. and thankfully we have a harbor freight now so I can go there..
Where do I "t" it in on the fuel line?
Where do I "t" it in on the fuel line?
@Will L. You're my friend and I respect you. And I do appreciate to help you've given me over the years. But I'm going to respond to your comment with a real common sense..
As far as owning this truck, if somebody takes her for a test drive and it's acting up how much do you really think they're going to give me for it with 300,000 miles on it. 2000.00 maybe 3? But let's go beyond that, I live in the middle of the rust belt. What kind of vehicle do you think I'm going to buy with that little amount of money.. let alone I have to have the vehicle ready to buy the same day the truck sells. I'm going to get a rusted out piece of s*** that somebody has hub cobbed together. And they're not going to be honest with me about what's wrong with it because they want to sell it.. so I'm buying a vehicle I know nothing about that may end up needing a s*** ton of work.. no way around it I have to have a decent sized truck and it has to be a crew cab ,I have a family..
Trucks are a hot commodity right now as everybody on this app knows... They are not cheap unless they're ready for the boneyard.
And parts are expensive no matter what vehicle it is.
As for selling the house. What am I going to get out of it will $15,000 maybe 20. It's still has rotted out main center beam and floor joices under one area..so probably not even that much.. What do you think the odds are that once it sells I'm going to be able to find another place for that amount of money that I can pay cash for and not have any payments.. let alone moving costs to get to the new place and money to live on till I find a job there. I will NEVER rent a home again in my life.. there's no security if you don't own it outright.. your only a injury away from being homeless if you can't work for a few weeks or so... I have a 2year old, and a mentally disabled wife to think about.. I don't have room in my life to take risks..
I'm never looking for the BEST fix or the " you'll never have to replace it again" fix.. pulling together 60 bucks twice a year is alot easier than pulled together 4-5 hundred all at once.. but that's irrelevant because my lift pump (like a shit ton of other parts on this truck), are all under life time warranty. Oh except the brake calipers that came from rock auto that everyone said to get.. nope warranty on them already expired, so I just dropped another 130 on calipers because the ones from Ra started ****ing up. I probably could have argued with them and they would have replaced them but I would have still have to buy them again then send them back to the old ones. But no action I couldn't even argue with them because there's literally no way to talk to anybody that works there.. So what did I gain by buying "the good ones" from rock auto. My point is not all of us are making a shit ton of money.. I know you watch the news, statistically the average American right now could not pull together $1,000 for an emergency if they had to... This is 2023 it's not 2019 anymore... When people need to fix something they want to wait it'll work not a way that will empty their pocket.
Again I'm not trying to be a prick saying all this I'm just saying how it is..
As far as owning this truck, if somebody takes her for a test drive and it's acting up how much do you really think they're going to give me for it with 300,000 miles on it. 2000.00 maybe 3? But let's go beyond that, I live in the middle of the rust belt. What kind of vehicle do you think I'm going to buy with that little amount of money.. let alone I have to have the vehicle ready to buy the same day the truck sells. I'm going to get a rusted out piece of s*** that somebody has hub cobbed together. And they're not going to be honest with me about what's wrong with it because they want to sell it.. so I'm buying a vehicle I know nothing about that may end up needing a s*** ton of work.. no way around it I have to have a decent sized truck and it has to be a crew cab ,I have a family..
Trucks are a hot commodity right now as everybody on this app knows... They are not cheap unless they're ready for the boneyard.
And parts are expensive no matter what vehicle it is.
As for selling the house. What am I going to get out of it will $15,000 maybe 20. It's still has rotted out main center beam and floor joices under one area..so probably not even that much.. What do you think the odds are that once it sells I'm going to be able to find another place for that amount of money that I can pay cash for and not have any payments.. let alone moving costs to get to the new place and money to live on till I find a job there. I will NEVER rent a home again in my life.. there's no security if you don't own it outright.. your only a injury away from being homeless if you can't work for a few weeks or so... I have a 2year old, and a mentally disabled wife to think about.. I don't have room in my life to take risks..
I'm never looking for the BEST fix or the " you'll never have to replace it again" fix.. pulling together 60 bucks twice a year is alot easier than pulled together 4-5 hundred all at once.. but that's irrelevant because my lift pump (like a shit ton of other parts on this truck), are all under life time warranty. Oh except the brake calipers that came from rock auto that everyone said to get.. nope warranty on them already expired, so I just dropped another 130 on calipers because the ones from Ra started ****ing up. I probably could have argued with them and they would have replaced them but I would have still have to buy them again then send them back to the old ones. But no action I couldn't even argue with them because there's literally no way to talk to anybody that works there.. So what did I gain by buying "the good ones" from rock auto. My point is not all of us are making a shit ton of money.. I know you watch the news, statistically the average American right now could not pull together $1,000 for an emergency if they had to... This is 2023 it's not 2019 anymore... When people need to fix something they want to wait it'll work not a way that will empty their pocket.
Again I'm not trying to be a prick saying all this I'm just saying how it is..
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
The kit has the Tee and a couple of short stubby hoses so you can tee in at the IP inlet using one of those stubby hoses.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Just before the IP
Like old Patch ... you are working on THIS old worn out pickup past the point of ridiculousness. Except Patch wasn't a rust bucket. (It's too late and expensive to move to Phoenix, AZ now due to extreme housing costs.)
Some parts, even with a lifetime warranty, are just wore out, bent, or unfit for further use. Yet they get a coat of cheap black paint and shoved back in a box and re-sold as reman. Because cheap 6.2/6.5 engines are all gone now and my condition I had to give up on Patch.
It was just a pickup after all.
To move your family around a 4 door sedan would do. As they are not the popular 4 door 4 wheel drive "pickup" they don't get as much money. Even "GASP!" minivans are inexpensive. Bluntly @Stoney your situation demands something that "Runs and Drives!" that doesn't take all of your time income to keep it running and driving.
So quit looking at a replacement "pickup" and look for another inexpensive ride. You don't need to sell this pickup and maybe keep it as a beater for when you need a pickup. Or trade it for a flatbed trailer you can tow with your minivan/sedan. Hell even full size vans are unloved and cheap - for a reason though. Who wants to work on a cramped FN van?! You may need FWD with your bad weather vs full size 2WD van.
I don't see you doing hotshot anymore and IMO not profitably with this pickup.
Short of finding a place with better job prospects in this red hot economy a less expensive reliable vehicle is the best advice to be offered. I recall your situation. IMO you still need to find a place with better employment options for yourself and your 'new' family. Your situation does limit you from being an OTR long haul truck driver, but, ask yourself where the work is you can be hired to do and can you get there?
@WarWagon I get what your saying, I do..but it's not that I want a truck (although I do) I NEED a truck. I use it for work. As in hauling materials, hauling dirt, etc. Heck I had the suspension dang near flat Thursday because we had so much shingles on it.. honestly probably 80 percent of the driving I do with it is to make money using the truck. I do get what you're saying that there are other things that are more practical for family use. But if I put a second vehicle on the road that's two insurances 2 registrations 2 inspections every year... And honestly I don't even have any place to park a second vehicle.. code enforcement has already bitching at me for having two trailers in the driveway..lol. which if I sold the truck I would might as well sell them too. Because of minivan ain't pulling a dump trailer or a 28 ft enclosed trailer. Both of which I also used to make money with. I agree it's a precarious situation I'm in right now... But with the job I got now once I get a few things caught up I will actually have money to play with In like a month or two. I'm extremely grateful for the job and even more grateful for the generous pay that my boss is giving me. Even though I swore I would never work for another contractor, and I hate the fact that I'm not the boss, it's still a decent job.. to be honest if I get far enough ahead I'll probably go back into business for myself though..
As an update I've been driving the truck for the past 4 hours and it has been running great... I haven't had not one dragging issue. I'm finding it really hard to believe that that return line being cracked open could cause the problem but I guess maybe I'm wrong.. maybe it's just that it sucks air in when you take your foot off the throttle and a injection pump isn't pushing so much. Either way I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the problem is finally solved. And if it is then God willing all of this back and forth about the truck is for nothing.
Trust me I would love to get out of New York, but that's not going to be an option until I can get this house done so I can get a good selling price out of it.. and again with the new income hopefully I'll be able to start making that happen sooner than later.
As an update I've been driving the truck for the past 4 hours and it has been running great... I haven't had not one dragging issue. I'm finding it really hard to believe that that return line being cracked open could cause the problem but I guess maybe I'm wrong.. maybe it's just that it sucks air in when you take your foot off the throttle and a injection pump isn't pushing so much. Either way I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the problem is finally solved. And if it is then God willing all of this back and forth about the truck is for nothing.
Trust me I would love to get out of New York, but that's not going to be an option until I can get this house done so I can get a good selling price out of it.. and again with the new income hopefully I'll be able to start making that happen sooner than later.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Hope you know I wasn’t trying to be a jerk- I get broke. I know what it is to sleep “outdoors”. Never said I was homeless, just saying my home was earth.
Maybe I am missing part of it and you are 35% way through house repairs- but if you aren’t at least 10% through the house by now, what you’re doing isn’t working. There comes a point to stop throwing good money after bad. Been there done that.
If your work is dependent upon the truck but the truck isn’t dependable- your income isn’t dependable. 2nd job at night flippin burgers or whatever. When snow aint on the ground- a moped delivering pizzas. Gotta figure some kind of change out because you been on here a long time and it doesn’t look like you’re making progress- except the leaky return line, that parts a win.
If ya see my old posts from years ago talking about reading fuel pressure, i mention and post pic of the harbor freight vacuum/ pressure gauge kit. It will work for a diagnostic test but doesn’t solve the problem of something happening a week later. That hose will not withstand the methanol and will be ruined within a month of constant use.
Steel line is ideal for the long run if using in a semi-permanent method. Then it’s just a couple short rubber pieces at each end.
Definitely want to tap it right at the ip inlet. I would still recommend the flared fitting and just a barbed fitting into it for the rubber hose. My guess it that fitting could be had for $10-$12, then the barbed fitting for around $4.
Here is the harbor freight one- they often offer 20-25% off deals to get you back as a customer - just ask them to offer that while there. Hopefully probably have the 1/8” barbed fitting there also.
This will work a short time- but the hose fails quickly and the gauge will fail by time the second hose needs replaced. I quit recommending it for a reason.
www.harborfreight.com
Maybe I am missing part of it and you are 35% way through house repairs- but if you aren’t at least 10% through the house by now, what you’re doing isn’t working. There comes a point to stop throwing good money after bad. Been there done that.
If your work is dependent upon the truck but the truck isn’t dependable- your income isn’t dependable. 2nd job at night flippin burgers or whatever. When snow aint on the ground- a moped delivering pizzas. Gotta figure some kind of change out because you been on here a long time and it doesn’t look like you’re making progress- except the leaky return line, that parts a win.
If ya see my old posts from years ago talking about reading fuel pressure, i mention and post pic of the harbor freight vacuum/ pressure gauge kit. It will work for a diagnostic test but doesn’t solve the problem of something happening a week later. That hose will not withstand the methanol and will be ruined within a month of constant use.
Steel line is ideal for the long run if using in a semi-permanent method. Then it’s just a couple short rubber pieces at each end.
Definitely want to tap it right at the ip inlet. I would still recommend the flared fitting and just a barbed fitting into it for the rubber hose. My guess it that fitting could be had for $10-$12, then the barbed fitting for around $4.
Here is the harbor freight one- they often offer 20-25% off deals to get you back as a customer - just ask them to offer that while there. Hopefully probably have the 1/8” barbed fitting there also.
This will work a short time- but the hose fails quickly and the gauge will fail by time the second hose needs replaced. I quit recommending it for a reason.
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