• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

@dbrannon79 just lift slightly to take the weight off the through bolts, pull both, and away you go! On reinstall, lower until a side lines up, put that one in, then check other side for down/up to align and put that one through, then follow the shop manual procedure for torquing them down!
 
I’ll have another go at it tomorrow. My daughter’s soon to be in-laws have a come a long That’s much safer than a ratchet strap lol.

thanks @Husker6.5. I’ll pull both through bolts out

I did go back out there and looked it over with my flashlight and noticed the bolts that holds the mounts to the frame are on a bracket not through the cross member so it should be a easy 2 hour job
 
Yeah that’s what I was using except I think this one is only rated for 3200lb. The homemade a-frame is an old swing frame with double 2x6’s across the top. Just high enough to fit over the engine with the hood up! Lol southern engineering to make junk useful 🤣
 
dbrannon79 said:
The end of down pipe and the one end of the intermediate pipe have what I call a ball flange. The rest are slip fit all the way to the end. It came like that from diamond eye

View attachment 67356
Click to expand...
Then I guess you can't have the Intermediate pipe in backwards in that case, just rotated wrong! My Heartthrob is swedged end slip fit all the way back. What was cool, is I could order and pay for it a piece at a time, as I couldn't afford the whole kit at the time. So I bought just the down, Intermediate, a 45 elbow and two 4" clamps for about $135 and because I live in Lincoln, they were able to ship via Speedee for like $15. A couple of years later I ordered the muffler, axle pipe, tailpipe two more 4" and a 5" pipe clamp (to make the muffler body hanger with), but haven't installed those for two reasons. One, the Burb isn't roadable and two, I like the sound of my straight-piped side-dump exhaust, you can hear the GM-8 spool nicely with the topless K-47 airbox on it!
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yeah that’s what I was using except I think this one is only rated for 3200lb. The homemade a-frame is an old swing frame with double 2x6’s across the top. Just high enough to fit over the engine with the hood up! Lol southern engineering to make junk useful 🤣
Click to expand...
What? No teeter-totter? Where's that old 12' 2x12"? I don't know how much to trust those old swingset A frames. When new, they were designed to support the swinging weight of three or four 120lb 8 year olds, not one 1000lb 22 year old 6.5! LOL 😧 🤣
 
Last edited:
Yup. It all went fairly smooth. I posted some photos on my thread Ended up having to shave some off the top side of the fan shroud but all is good 😌
 
There was one threaded metal tab for connecting the fan shroud halves missing, but I found that when I pulled the inner fender to work on resealing the lower radiator hose. I installed that today and the leak on the lower radiator hose seems to have stopped.

While inspecting the head light harnesses and relays, I noted that I failed to connect the negative lead from the All 4 On High relay to the battery. Now it's connected and everything works as it should. A big duh for me.
 
Husker6.5 said:
What's the First Commandment of 6.5s?
GROUNDS! GROUNDS! GROUNDS! 🤣 🤣🤣
Click to expand...

I f#%king know!

The problem is the main negative cable to the Driver’s side has a smaller lead with ring terminal coming off the back and it never gets connected. The negative lead from the All 4 on Hi relay looks the same. I was tired and missed it. At least I caught it before I threw parts at it. That was why I was inspecting it.
 
Big T said:
There was one threaded metal tab for connecting the fan shroud halves missing, but I found that when I pulled the inner fender to work on resealing the lower radiator hose. I installed that today and the leak on the lower radiator hose seems to have stopped.

While inspecting the head light harnesses and relays, I noted that I failed to connect the negative lead from the All 4 On High relay to the battery. Now it's connected and everything works as it should. A big duh for me.
Click to expand...
I tapped the laughy face cause I am not laughing at You, I am laughing with You. 😹
 
not on my truck, but yesterday the Jetta TDI blew out one of the CV shafts in the next town! had to go rent a tow dolly from u-haul to pull it back home. $58 for that was lots cheaper than a wrecker lol. towing it back home with my truck, boy I could tell my breaks didn't like the extra weight! cruising in at 55mph I just about had to stand on the pedal to stop short of the middle of an intersection.

I may have more work needed on my brakes if I plan on towing anything in the future lol.
 
You know it's bad when I get up early and fire up the truck for a short jaunt down to the East Side Highway just to see how good the All 4 on Hi lights up the road. I'll say it's good, VERY GOOD!

Next jobs (all at once): 1) Replace injectors and return lines, 2) address oil leak on passenger side valve cover, 3) address exhaust leak on exhaust side of ATT turbo, including bolt extraction.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top