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97 3500 hd

D

drapermotorsports

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got the truck starter went bad took it to O'Reilly got a new one put it on lasted 2 months. Took it back got another one put it on lasted 3 back to back starts the problem I'm having is the starter is pushing away from the flywheel its got the front bracket new bolts etc it also has the nv4500 trans
 
pics or best is a video.
Without more to go on, Start by investing in new FACTORY bolts. The knurling wears and bolts stretch which allow for freeplay. #15549950 —$20 investment that no matter the issue is worth it.

You could have a few issues going on.
If the engine is locked. Get a flywheel turner/ prybar and rotate the flywheel 45° to ensure that isnt it.

Clutch flywheels don’t really have the issue But automatic trans- flexplate (which I call call flywheel also all the time) can get bent or cracked and will have issues.

The original direct drive starters used shims on the starter, and many people mistakenly install them on the gear reduction starters. Do not use the shims if there.

Examine the mounting ear carefully. People run without the front bracket which you have, but maybe they tried without it and cracked the ear. Also over tightening could strip the bolt holes and allow freeplay.

The starter to buy is the Powermaster 9052. More expensive but will outlast and will start the truck SO MUCH easier because of the faster rotation. As much as I wanted to jump out and say get this starter first, you need to ensure nothing else major is at fault.
 
It is unusual to see a person from Montana joining thetruckstop but, to see someone with the same last name, now that is highly unusual. LOL
Welcome to thetruckstop Drapermotorsports.
OH YEAH, I have no information to add in about starters. I do know that if and when the starter on My truck craps out, it will be the Power Master unit without a doubt.
I might however, get a cheaper brand to pack for a spare, kind of like PMDs. LOL
 
I would suggest if your plan is good- The first powermaster on my hummer got destroyed while offroading (The rebar that broke it would have destroyed a normal gm starter also).
But because I chose to put the powermaster on before my Delco starter completely died, I had a spare with me when it was needed.
Then running on the old starter again I had time to order it’s replacement.

This method does require shelving the old unit at home, or a box of extra parts in the rig all the time for such moments. How far you mind walking or getting towed becomes the decision maker.

What I would not say is wait until the old starter completely dies then switch it out unless you don’t need that rig daily.

There are 3 drawbacks to the powermaster.
More expensive than the basic units.
Not lifetime warranty (might outlast the engine rings though).
Unless you live near a hotrod shop, you have to order online which means waiting- and those of us who live in the USA, we are not good at waiting!
 
I would check the condition of the block and threads for the starter bolts really good. If you find no issues there I would try a different brand starter.

I stay far away from remanufactured starters and alternators (if you went that route). Way to many come backs, hell half the time I couldn't get it out of my bay. Started once to test it. Clean up go to start it to pull it out of the shop.... click. I ONLY sell new alternators and starters to my customers now.

When NAPA includes a few tow coupon in the remanufactured starter box... you know its going to leave you stranded😅
 
Thats the whole reason so many offer lifetime- they only last a year or two.
High quality, well built starters takes a decade to just get going.
 
Will L. said:
pics or best is a video.
Without more to go on, Start by investing in new FACTORY bolts. The knurling wears and bolts stretch which allow for freeplay. #15549950 —$20 investment that no matter the issue is worth it.

You could have a few issues going on.
If the engine is locked. Get a flywheel turner/ prybar and rotate the flywheel 45° to ensure that isnt it.

Clutch flywheels don’t really have the issue But automatic trans- flexplate (which I call call flywheel also all the time) can get bent or cracked and will have issues.

The original direct drive starters used shims on the starter, and many people mistakenly install them on the gear reduction starters. Do not use the shims if there.

Examine the mounting ear carefully. People run without the front bracket which you have, but maybe they tried without it and cracked the ear. Also over tightening could strip the bolt holes and allow freeplay.

The starter to buy is the Powermaster 9052. More expensive but will outlast and will start the truck SO MUCH easier because of the faster rotation. As much as I wanted to jump out and say get this starter first, you need to ensure nothing else major is at fault.
Click to expand...
I've figured out the problem the ear is busted on the side but I can stick a bolt and nut on it the inside bolt hole is fine... the last time I put one on
Will L. said:
Oh yeah, if someone replace the flywheel with a new one and got the wrong tooth count unit.

How are the teeth on the flywheel? If they are damaged it could stop engaging.
Click to expand...
I've figured out the problem the ear on the corner of the block is busted half the hole is there can take a bolt and put a nut on top the inside hole is in good condition i used a new bolt in the inside hole and used a bolt and nut on the outside hole trucks been starting fine since April 22 today it finally kicked away from the flywheel enough where the teeth don't catch. I'm wondering if I can put jb weld or something like that on the starter mounting surface and put my bolts in and let it dry if that will keep it from moving this truck is my main source of income so when its down I don't make money (tow truck) I was thinking once the steel weld or jb weld dries its no way it can move
 
I am not sure if anybody here can suggest anything to do that does not jeopardize the safety.
All I know is this starter is very heavy and it generates a lot of torque which is why there are 2 big bolts plus a bracket that should hold all the different kinetic energy generated.

You may want to check with JBWeld directly to see if what you want to do is within their spec limit to do it safely.
Otherwise, you may need to find a professional that can rebuild the ear and the bolt holes properly.

I know it is not good.
 
Yeah, if you don’t know how to weld really well, hire someone for this. The missing material can be built up, then cut/ ground into the proper shape to replace the missing material.

it will cost a few hundred dollars, there is a descent amount of hard work involved. But I say get the estimate and compare it to a replacement engine, understanding that many junkyard or used 6.5s are not worth more than a paperweight. Many people here have lost an engine and wish they could have saved a good engine for an $800 cost. And you cant just get a different good block and throw your parts in it and have it work. 3-400 is about the cheapest you get out of that deal IF you have a good block given to you free.

could you get lucky enough to jb weld or even muggy weld a stud in place of the bilt and have it workout long term? Yes. But I grew up in Vegas and understand odds. You are Doing same as wanting to come to Vegas with $250 and win $10,000.

If you have no money and no choice- all you can do is roll the dice. Just be prepared for one time in the very newr future to have the starer rip off instead of starting- and keep a pair of big wire cutters in the truck with a fire extinguisher Incase the starter causes and electrical fire when it breaks free.
 
You COULD possibly have that busted ear on the block welded up, but that is cast iron and damn difficult to work with. To do it properly, the area needs to be heated to about 400°F before welding begins so the cast iron doesn't crack. Then it needs to cool down SLOWLY, usually by packing it in sand and letting it sit for a day so that thermal shock doesn't crack it. All of this is best done with the block stripped bare and out of the vehicle and by someone who has a lot of experience with welding cast iron, too. Then you can grind down, drill and tap a new starter bolt hole in your rebuilt ear.

Even then, in a high-stress area like that, there is no guarantee that it won't fail on the first start try, or two months later 200 miles from home.

That's why a broken starter mounting ear on the block means time to find a good block and start swapping over parts 99% of the time.
 
Oh, and just about everybody on here will agree with this, do NOT get a "reman" starter or alternator (especially a starter) for the 6.5 from any of the major high volume-low quality parts outlets like Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, O'Reilly's, Pep Boys or even NAPA. Yes, they may have a "lifetime" warranty on them, but like you experienced yourself, @namdub, swapping out three starters in as many months "under warranty" is not cost/time effective nor very pleasurable. And when that positive battery cable lug that goes onto the starter breaks off from being R&R'd so much, well. . .

If you do go the route of not buying a new Powermaster starter, then I would suggest going to a local, reputable automotive electric repair place and have it rebuilt. The cost is about the same as a chain store reman, but you will have more than the "reman's" pop in a set of brushes, a new starter solenoid and maybe a new bushing out on the end of the bendix shaft. A good auto electric place will do things like turn the armature, install a heavier duty brush assembly/springs than stock, a better starter solenoid with heavier duty contacts, upgrade the stock bushings with either heavier duty oilite bushings or with bearings on both ends of the armature shaft and most likely replace the bendix assembly, too.
 
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