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Long, slow build of my truck

FellowTraveler said:
There are only two (2) ways to burn all that fuel on the down low "a Detroit Diesel Blower or compounding turbocharging both of which will produce massive torque right from idle." There would be no need to run high boost either!

If you look at the cid, cfm to rpm tables I had posted the Detroit blower is sized by cid + 400 cid for the diesel "end result bigger air from idle" I suspect the smallest for that diesel would be a 4-71.
Click to expand...
I was never really interested in the complexity of a compound turbo system, but I'm starting to get a little interested. A supercharger is intriguing for the off-idle boost, but I'm not excited about the parasitic loss.

Ps. Sorry about the hijack, Hugh.
 
6.5L said:
A blow would be a lot of bottom end stress IMO. A spool valve with a large 21cm housing would be a pretty good deal.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, there is that option too. I forgot about that one. Certainly less complexity. Hmmm
 
I will tell you, the results I had with mine were unreal. It was one of the best mods I had done my truck, and I am kicking myself everyday for getting rid of it. A big housing and mechanical VGT made wonders out of the ol 6 nickle. Add that to your fueling capability, and you wouldn't be touched
 
6.5L said:
A blow would be a lot of bottom end stress IMO. A spool valve with a large 21cm housing would be a pretty good deal.
Click to expand...
Bottom end would be questionable on older blocks that's why I commented running low boost on the blower. If my old memory bank's are right 'down under they use a Eaton 122 cid blower on the 6.5td.'
 
n8in8or said:
I was never really interested in the complexity of a compound turbo system, but I'm starting to get a little interested. A supercharger is intriguing for the off-idle boost, but I'm not excited about the parasitic loss.

Ps. Sorry about the hijack, Hugh.
Click to expand...
Yea, sorry Hugh!
Parasitic loss with instant torque becomes a numbers game IMO considering the loss you have already de-fueling on the low not to blow un-burnt fuel.

With all that torque there is no need for high stall speed torque converter (drive train loss) and using the lowest stall speed you can find or have made will give you back some of that parasitic loss of any blower.
 
Good discussion guys. Looks like I have some reading to do, Nate! Never a bad thing.

Anyway, got another little thing done on the truck a couple weeks ago that I can post about.

One thing I think we all know is that in order to get any sort of noticeable power increase from a "big" mod such as a turbo, tune, etc., all the "little" mods need to be done and done properly. I consider this a little, or supporting mod. Back in March or so, I installed the Raptor 100 lift pump. I have about 15k on the pump with no complaints. Due to the quasi-emergency circumstances surrounding the install, the stock fuel lines were left in place. I did not have the other parts - or time for that matter - to convert the truck to 1/2" lines. Over the summer I ordered a FTB kit from WalkingJ, and had come up with a Cummins fuel filter base to use in place of the FFM. In all reality there is no need to delete the FFM. It works well, uses a good filter, even located fairly well. But let's face it - if a big bad Duramax with a full FASS system has spin-on filters, my 6.5 is gonna have spin-on filters too damnit lol. So I fabbed up a bracket to hold the filter housing to the upper rad hose support. Not the strongest piece of metal on the truck, but it works for now. The cool thing about this filter base is that it has incoming pressure and outgoing pressure ports. I have my gauge hooked up to the outgoing pressure currently.

As it sits, the truck is stock from the sending unit to the lift pump, 1/2" from the lift pump to the filter, and 3/8" from the filter to the IP. I have a tank sump to install, which will allow me to run 1/2" from the tank to the lift pump. Probably gonna pull the bed and install a new tank in the spring and do it then. Anyway, just an update from me since it feels like it's been forever.

b032a458e0aa67656d4a95abaee4f894.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
pacificdrumma said:
Good discussion guys. Looks like I have some reading to do, Nate! Never a bad thing.

Anyway, got another little thing done on the truck a couple weeks ago that I can post about.

One thing I think we all know is that in order to get any sort of noticeable power increase from a "big" mod such as a turbo, tune, etc., all the "little" mods need to be done and done properly. I consider this a little, or supporting mod. Back in March or so, I installed the Raptor 100 lift pump. I have about 15k on the pump with no complaints. Due to the quasi-emergency circumstances surrounding the install, the stock fuel lines were left in place. I did not have the other parts - or time for that matter - to convert the truck to 1/2" lines. Over the summer I ordered a FTB kit from WalkingJ, and had come up with a Cummins fuel filter base to use in place of the FFM. In all reality there is no need to delete the FFM. It works well, uses a good filter, even located fairly well. But let's face it - if a big bad Duramax with a full FASS system has spin-on filters, my 6.5 is gonna have spin-on filters too damnit lol. So I fabbed up a bracket to hold the filter housing to the upper rad hose support. Not the strongest piece of metal on the truck, but it works for now. The cool thing about this filter base is that it has incoming pressure and outgoing pressure ports. I have my gauge hooked up to the outgoing pressure currently.

As it sits, the truck is stock from the sending unit to the lift pump, 1/2" from the lift pump to the filter, and 3/8" from the filter to the IP. I have a tank sump to install, which will allow me to run 1/2" from the tank to the lift pump. Probably gonna pull the bed and install a new tank in the spring and do it then. Anyway, just an update from me since it feels like it's been forever.

b032a458e0aa67656d4a95abaee4f894.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
You can get fuel filters with water release valve attached to bottom to use on the bracket.
 
So a couple months ago I ordered a Heath cooling upgrade kit. I know I can build it myself for less blah blah blah.. anyways. I had debated putting it on my current engine because I have gotten this one up to 230 before, and I didn't want to use $750+ of parts on a beat engine. Well it looks like that's whats happening lol. Just got notice from work today that my vacation time in April to attend a tractor show in PA was approved. Guess when it was that I hit 230? On the way home from said tractor show, so in order to not let history repeat itself, its time to install the cooling upgrades.

My plan is to install the kit, which consists of H.O. water pump, 195 t-stats, 21" fan, and HD fan clutch, as well as the new radiator I picked up a little over a year ago. It is a Silla brand rad., I will be interested to see how it performs. I will also be replacing the rad hoses, and coolant overflow tank and cap. Basically all new parts in the cooling department.

In addition to that, I will be seeing what I can do with the 94-02 Dodge intercooler I picked up awhile back. A guy the next town over from me has a 97 CCLB with a 12v/NV4500 swap, and he runs an identical intercooler with the 6.5 rad. So it can definitely be done. But It will be interesting to see what mods are needed. I have some ideas already, but any input is appreciated.

Stay tuned, the old goat is gonna get some unexpected love.
 
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