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I hope the 6.5L fleet does not revolt....

Well folks,

I called the seller, and inquired about the identically speced junker to see if I could buy the 6 speed manual, and he commented that he had not gotten a paid invoice yet, nor had they picked it up, so I called the auction company. The gal looked it up, and I could hear her murmur "no contact" so I guess no check has been received, no communication of any sort, etc.

Unfortunately I am bidder #4 (should have bumped it once or twice more so I could be backup bidder) so my chances are slim of aquiring it, but hopefully they run it through again and I can have a second chance. I was able to get her to tag my account and the item so that if the seller lets it go to bidder number 2, I can still inquire about the transmission.

SO, I ask you guys, what do you think this old gal is worth?

https://www.purplewave.com/auction/160428/item/L2182

In all reality, I would be smarter trying to buy it strictly for parts, mostly the 6 speed manual, as the reason it was parked and then attacked for parts was that the engine was having issues, trans is presumed good.

They needed brake parts off the rear axle, as well as leaf springs, and so with the rotor removal the hubs are MIA. I am confident the axle is OK, but to play it safe, I know the exact location of a 05 in a salvage yard not far from the Idaho farm, and I bet I could get the axle and springs for less than 750, hopefully less than 500. (obviously the 05 is also a chassis cab)

Then one has to deal with the weathering of the interior due to missing back window (who the heck hires a window guy to cut out the good used one I cant imagine they saved much $ doing that) and the missing drivers seat.

They did harm it a little moving it around with the wheel loader, all I can see is the trans crossmember, a couple dents on the cab, and maybe the fuel tank. one rear crossmember also was damaged, but I think the salvage 05 in Idaho would be fine. cut rivets, install with bolts. they might have even robbed the rear fuel tank too.

Also, the one bumper mounting tab on the frame rail is also broke off.

I could put a back window in it and then try to slowly fix it up, as long as the title was still clean, and worse case if I buy it right, the transmission and clutch and flywheel would hopefully be able to recoup any costs. The only reason I am considering is taht it comes from a warm, arid climate, so there is no rust on it at all.

Any idea on value would be welcome,

Thanks!
 
I wouldn't pay a $1000 for that heap of parts. With the known issue of finding ZF6 GM parts, thats a MIGHTY BIG gamble to take to buy a parts pile for one. I wouldn't even want a ZF6 trans truck just for the simple fact the truck could become a parts truck at anytime because of the trans, knowing they are known to go out at randomn, and if they go out forget finding parts for them. There really is little to no advantage of a ZF6 over an ALLISON. You MIGHT see a .5-1 MPG better towing empty, but towing the ALLISON normally does better if you leave it alone and let it do the shifting(leave it in D and don't interfere with it). Not to mention the DMF problems. And if the engine was suspected of having issues, all you're really buying is a trans and frame.
 
Yeah, that's not worth much at all. So you didn't end up getting the first truck?

Oh yeah, she is paid for. :)

Have to go get it Tuesday, soonest I could bum a ride down. :) gonna put it immediately to work, have a piece of equipment half way home that needs to come home.

@THEFERMANATOR have you heard any solid recommendations on what to run for transmission fluid?

GM has an offering, but I did a google search on it and it came back as transynd? it is 12378515.

I am allways chasing mpgs, and love shifting my own, so hence the choice. :) I think for the sake of the ZF, I will be staying at stock power and likely putting finned PTO covers on.
 
Haven't heard much about the ZF6 except the GM version had quite a few issues compared to the FORD version(primarily because the GM bean counters got involved and cut corners to save on initial cost). I did a search, and it seems it calls for DEX 3 type fluid, but GM reccomends synthetic oil for them due to the heat issues. So a TES-295 fluid is an EXCELLENT choice as it will resist heat better than most any other synthetic ATF out there(rated to 250 degrees for extended drain intervals in the ALLISON, and uses regular drain intervals for applications that see 280 degrees routinely). SYCRO MESH would also be another good alternative as it was what was used in applications that specced out ATF, but ATF couldn't handle the heat. DODGE used it in the front wheel drive cars of the 80's and 90's that were turbo'd, the NV3500, NV3550, and a few other high output applications(GM specced out ATF for the NV3500 for there applications because SURPRISE, they didn't want to spend the money for synthetic). It is also used in a few imports with high HP. You can find it at most auto parts stores, but it will run you close to $10-12 a quart. AMSOIL and ROYAL PURPLE both make a SYNCRO MESH fluid, and ROYAL PURPLES is also marketed for transfer cases that see extreme use. So you have options available, but the TES-295 is probably the cheapest of the high quality oils. and it says you will need 7 quarts.
 
@THEFERMANATOR have you heard any solid recommendations on what to run for transmission fluid?

In theory, the GM ZF does not need a fluid change (at least within the first 150K miles as that is all the higher the Owner's Service Manual goes). Yes, the GM variant uses synthetic to handle heat. Ford Spec'd regular trans fluid and the change interval is 50K (mostly from heat).

Am running Amsoil synthetic in my ZF with the square gears, have about 30K miles on it, and the only change I noticed when I switched it from dyno was an increase in mileage. Shifting remained the same.


I think for the sake of the ZF, I will be . . . likely putting finned PTO covers on.

Which ones? I looked into them for additional cooling and capacity, but last I searched (a few years ago) could only find ones for a Dodge.

Although, a PTO opening is a PTO opening . . .
 
In theory, the GM ZF does not need a fluid change (at least within the first 150K miles as that is all the higher the Owner's Service Manual goes). Yes, the GM variant uses synthetic to handle heat. Ford Spec'd regular trans fluid and the change interval is 50K (mostly from heat).

Am running Amsoil synthetic in my ZF with the square gears, have about 30K miles on it, and the only change I noticed when I switched it from dyno was an increase in mileage. Shifting remained the same.




Which ones? I looked into them for additional cooling and capacity, but last I searched (a few years ago) could only find ones for a Dodge.

Although, a PTO opening is a PTO opening . . .

Agree on PTO openings being universal as that's the point.

Got to sample the oil to see how it's doing. For example a NV5600 synchromesh used to be a lifetime fill. They switched that in the owner's manual to 50K mile changes later. Mainly because the oil was shearing down due to all the gears spinning all the time. From my NV5600 UOA I wouldn't run it more than 30K and that's with Amsoil shearing down! The first oil sample when I got it used had sheared from 30 wt to 10 wt! 20K miles on Amsoil was 20 weight.

Best I can tell the overdrive gear is the one that generates heat in the transmissions. So lugging or running OD when you should be in direct generates too much heat.

One PTO cover can be used for a Eaton Fuller string filter and the other for a cooler. The filters and kits can be hard to get now and then.
http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=acton&key=1000
 
@JayTheCPA ,are you holding out on us? :) what is the ZF in?

@THEFERMANATOR, I am frugal, but on the ZF, $ is no issue. With $ being a non-issue, would you run GM synchromesh or Castrol/ Allison Transynd?
I cant seem to find full synthetic Synchromesh, it all seems to be a semi-synthetic. Would that make the full synthetic Transynd a better choice from a heat tolerance and lubricant stability (wont break down as bad)?

Also, as far as you can tell, do you think the Gm 12378515 is just Transynd? If so, I will just skip it and get 2 gallons from our local Allison shop.
 
Weirdly ford still calls for the synthetic ATF in there's.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
From other dudes with many mikes, anything else seems to take out the synchros.
 
GM doesn't sell TRANSYND in any form that I'm aware of. There manual trans lubricant is just dexron 3, non synthetic I believe. I just did a search on that number, and its conflicting to say the least. GM specs it as a tes-295 fluid, but all the aftermarket oil companys cross it to there synthetic syncromesh type oils. I would say get 2 gallons of transynd from allison if it were mine.
 
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I cant seem to find full synthetic Synchromesh, it all seems to be a semi-synthetic.

One of the site vendors can hook you up. Contact them as they give you a better price than the website, well at least they did for me when I requested a quote.
http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/amsoil/

Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid 5W-30
AMSOIL Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid is a premium-quality synthetic lubricant designed to surpass the most demanding lubrication requirements of manual transmissions and transaxles where non-extreme-pressure fluids are used.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...omesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?code=MTFQT-EA
 
well, our local Allison shop is a bunch of lazy ****s. Supposed to be open to noon on Saturday (it is, after all, right on I70, and the only Allison shop for close to 200 miles...) and at 11:09, it was a ghost town. Not even sure if they opened that day at all.

If you google that location, it is full of bad reviews, most related to closing earlier than the stated time.

So next week I get Transynd...
 
Yup, run amsoil torque drive in my Allison's and tcases. Never had a problem with it on my 06 and I abused that bad boy to the point of my edge insite running the gm trans temp sensor out of spec I assume (hit 290 iirc and the temp started going all over the place until I got back on level ground and backed off then it dropped to 210-230 swings). I changed the spin on filter every oil change (10-15k) and did a pan drain every 25k. Changed all fluids yearly at roughly 50k.

I'd do amsoil, if you have a preferred account (which I think everyone should have).
 
I think the site vendor does better than the preferred account... :)
 
@JayTheCPA ,are you holding out on us? :) what is the ZF in?

Hehe . . . Yes, I have held back on that. But seeing as lately this group is less about other-brand bashing and more about sharing, the ZF sits in back of a 7.3 DI.


I am frugal, but on the ZF, $ is no issue. With $ being a non-issue, would you run GM synchromesh or Castrol/ Allison Transynd?

Without a TFT gauge, personally, I'd only run full synthetic fluid in the GM ZF. IIRC GM spec'd synthetic as they decided to eliminate the external cooling. In looking over a 2003 ZF service manual, it spec'd 6 Liters of "Castrol Transmax S (synthetic) Automatic Transmission Fluid, GM Part Number 12378515" for the fluid.

As an alternative . . . If you are considering rebuilding the ZF, I happen to know that it is theoretically possible to use the Ford gears in back of the GM housing (or more specifically to use the Ford 'back-half' of the tranny). Going this route will require installation of a trans cooler in front of the radiator.


Weirdly ford still calls for the synthetic ATF in there's.

Last I checked, Ferd called for *regular* ATF. And a 50K mile change interval.

Can easily state that the Ford ZF runs just fine on Amsoil's ATF :)
 
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Iirc, the diesels called for synthetic. Not the gassers though.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
Ford's spec was 5.5 Litres of "MERCON -R- ATF, Ford part number XT-2–QDX" (at least for the generation of ZF that I am most familiar with) for both the gassers and diesel. So if that is synthetic, then will stand corrected :) It is possible that one of the generations called for synthetic (ex: 6.X), but I am just not aware of it.

If the spec was changed, the notice never trickled out to me. In digging a bit, it looks like Ford dropped Mercon and is now recommending Mercon-V (Ford XT-5-QMC).


Interesting how the Ford fill quantity is less than the GM given that the Ford version has more plumbing to it.
 
Correct.
I was told later on the spec was changed to mercon v. To include the older trucks. I'll see if I can get ahold of any publications.
Which what I saw was the mercon v is supposed to be a synthetic. Can't confirm it though.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
Really starting to hate my local Allison shop. stopped in today, asked about why they were closed on Sat. "Oh, well, Saturdays are pretty hit or miss some days, and the other parts person was gone that day, so we didnt open." What I wanted to say and did not: "Saturdays would be alot more hit and alot less miss if you would actually stay open according to your hours.

Also, same idiot says the 40 dollar per gallon Mobil ATF "is actually Transynd, as Mobil bought the rights" yeah right buddy. Did not buy a damn thing there. :)
 
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