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Getting old burb back on the road. Looking for advise

Appaloosa

Appaloosa

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Location
Wisconsin
Hi All, I've been snooping around here for some time. I'm in the process of restoring my 95 burb. My first project is to re-do all fuel and brake lines.

Today I dropped the tank, which was somewhat rusty but salvageable I think. I plan to sand and re-paint it before it starts to leak. I ordered a Spectra premium FSU because the lines are very rusty on mine coming out of the tank. One side note, has any one re-built an FSU? ie. installed and bent new lines through the original cover? seems you could upgrade the size of the supply line this way. I assume one would have to solder or come up with a O ring bolt config to seal it. just wonder cause of the debates I've read here about fuel supply issues. seems this crinkle bent 3/8" pickup line would limit the flow rate on some of these FTB mods and larger fuel lines people recommend here? with so much money spend on fancy lift pumps, etc. Anyway I'm considering it. but don't think its worth the $75 I spent on getting the spectra, I assume these flow fine since I haven't read about anyone re-building/upgrading the FSU. I don't plan on making a drag racer, but would like to do some performance mods in the future. don't want the fuel to be an issue.

this leads me to my second question. What do you experts recommend for fuel line? I'm considering running 3/8" or 1/2" rubber, or stainless, or teflon. from FSU to a new pre-filter, to upgraded LP, to FM. then do FTB mod. I'm concerned about the longevity of all rubber lines, and the expense of protected wrap rubber/teflon.

Anyone now a good source for bulk fuel and brake line? I have not worked with Stainless yet but plan to get a Mastercool Flaring tool to have anyway. Maybe stainless is a waste of time/money? I just want to do this once and right.

Any thoughts on the best LP to get? walbro, raptor, twin stock in series?

Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse. I know a lot of this info is in many posts. I'm just trying to tie everything up and get stuff ordered and not overlook something/ waste money.

I also ordered a Diamond eye exhaust system today to go with my resto.

Thanks to anyone willing to help a newbie 6.5.
 

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I'm not a big fan of rubber lines other than to isolate vibrations. there are other options besides SS and Teflon. The the SS would be the hardest to work with. My local napa carries a line than has copper in it. it comes in quite a few sizes and I can buy it by the foot or roll.
Raptor is the best pump but like 3 times the money.
 
Brass, bronze, copper, lead, tin, and zinc all oxidize from biofuels and additives. Replace with stainless steel, carbon steel, aluminum, viton, or fuel line rated for bio fuel. Why the big deal about bio? Because by 2020 all diesel fuel in the US is going to be at least 5% bio.

My preference is aluminum, easier to work with and not too pricey. Like AK Driver, I would try to stay away from stainless for cost and hard to work with, as well as only enough rubber to work.
 
where did you guys get the SS brake line kit?

Do you think their is any issues using aluminum for fuel line as to how aluminum holds up to vibration?

Know of a good supplier for bulk SS or aluminum fuel line?
sctrailrider said:
I just received my new pre bent SS brake lines a few days ago, very very nice set... haven't installed them yet... 250$ shipped wasn't a bad deal...
Click to expand...
 
I got mine at inlinetube.com They had said they would make a engine oil cooler line kit - if I sent them my used lines and told them exactly what I wanted. So I would think they would make the fuel lines also
 
While working on the tank, consider removing the in-tank filter and installing a pre-LP filter. Only potential item with this solution is that it does not (currently) have a fuel heater solution at the pre-LP filters; but then the in-tank filter did not have a heater to it either.

For the FSU, check with Leroy to see if he is still making (or has) the MRFSU as a durability upgrade for the FSU.

Leroy can also help out with the LP and pre-LP filter.
 
How bad is the rust on the tank? I media blasted the tank on my pickup and used por15. It bought me about 5 years before pinholing. In hindsight, I would have replaced the tank back then if the budget allowed. I live in the rustbelt though. These trucks have a habit like all old vehicles, of nickel and diming you to death, so you have to pick and choose where to put the money now. I also got the Metrum Rod Sending unit from Leroy. I got sick of changing sending units. His is one and done. Good luck with your project
 
X3 or whatever on the modern bombproof fuel sensor Leroy sells. It will survive when the fuel turns bad and ruins the tank. The OEM sensor is a cheap obsolete design that fails often.

Yes just throw away the tank - have you seen how cheap the new ones are?

Yes, throw away the non-oem tank sock as the factory unit has a bypass valve in it for cold gelling mornings that the replacement doesn't. Yes, you will need a pre-filter for the lift pump noting the walbro does have a screen in the bottom pump bowl. Consider a water separator as a prefilter and add the heater to the prefilter setup.

The Walbro FRC 10 is a good pump vs. the OEM and will flow on fail. Anything else is wasted money that isn't flow on fail.

Add a relay kit for the OPS that runs the lift pump. A fuel pressure gauge is a good idea that reads vacuum as well as pressure.
 
Thanks for the tips. I'm currently debating which pre filter and LP to get. The Raptor seems aweful pricy and I probaby will never need that much pump. But I do like the life time warrentee. I have heard lots of people say the Walbro gets weak or fails over time? I don't like the idea of paying for two pumps so i can keep one in my glove box for a roadside repair. if the raptor will outlast everything else and has better flow i can see paying more for it.

Is the raptor 100 flow on fail?

If I were to run 1/2" fuel lines, modify Pick-up etc. all the way. would the Walbro be strong enough to draw that much fuel from the tank.

Maybe 1/2" fuel line is really a waste of time?

I'm at the crossroads of all in raptor 1/2" lines, or stay similar to stock and save money to put fuel in the tank. above all I need dependably.

I live in wisconsin, and plan to use this truck in the winter. currently its 5 degrees. Do you think by adding a filter pre LP I would need a fuel heater. is their a good heater /filter/ water separator in one unit anybody has had success with?

I spent a coupld hours last night sanding on my old tank. its obvoisly thin in some areas. I only found a couple of pin holes around the filler neck. I think I just prime it with rustoleum rusty metal primer and then top coat enamel. hopefully it will be a cheap fix ,last a while yet.

I plan to do OPS mod. I will check with Leroy about this FSU.
 

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I have a tank off a 1999 K1500 6.5 TD Suburban that I would sell for $300 a ton - you can check the weight of the tank to make me an offer if you are interested.

We would have to figure something out on shipping
 
I did SS brakes lines a while back from 'Inline Tube', they fit like a glove and price wise and time saving wise cannot be beat. Fuel Lines I got from 'Lines To Go' once again they fit like a glove, there was one incorrect bend that was at the end of the suction line which I have told them about and they are looking into but it was an easy fix though.

I went with a Spectra tank which has the baffle box in it and shelled out for a Delco FSU.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/suburban-replacement-fuel-tank-and-fuel-line-fyi.43609/

Cheers
Nobby
 
Yeah I know but to be honest despite that I figured the last set lasted 20 years so what the heck! Also I waxed the crap out of them after installing and will keep that up on a maintenance basis. I must say though it sure does make me smile when I get under the truck and see my brake lines as shiny as the day that I installed them! :)
 
Appaloosa said:
Thanks for the tips. I'm currently debating which pre filter and LP to get. The Raptor seems aweful pricy and I probaby will never need that much pump. But I do like the life time warrentee. See how far that gets you on the side of the road. I have heard lots of people say the Walbro gets weak or fails over time? They generally simply die sudden like and then the IP transfer pump gets you home. you can remove the screen and distroy it with bad fuel and grit like I did. I don't like the idea of paying for two pumps so i can keep one in my glove box for a roadside repair. Flow on fail doesn't require roadside repair. if the raptor will outlast everything else and has better flow i can see paying more for it. Lift pumps are a unreliable limited life PIA - get used to it.

Is the raptor 100 flow on fail? No.

If I were to run 1/2" fuel lines, modify Pick-up etc. all the way. would the Walbro be strong enough to draw that much fuel from the tank. Less resistance from larger lines would help - the pump doesn't care otherwise.

Maybe 1/2" fuel line is really a waste of time? Yes As you said it isn't a drag car build.

I'm at the crossroads of all in raptor 1/2" lines, or stay similar to stock and save money to put fuel in the tank. above all I need dependably.

I live in wisconsin, and plan to use this truck in the winter. currently its 5 degrees. Do you think by adding a filter pre LP I would need a fuel heater. is their a good heater /filter/ water separator in one unit anybody has had success with? Fuel heaters are a good thing in cold weather by filters. I would start by looking at CAT filter heads for optional fuel heater add ons.

I spent a coupld hours last night sanding on my old tank. its obvoisly thin in some areas. I only found a couple of pin holes around the filler neck. I think I just prime it with rustoleum rusty metal primer and then top coat enamel. hopefully it will be a cheap fix ,last a while yet. Water can get into rusted out tank tops. Water and injectors don't mix. A good water separator prefilter and this concern is less.

I plan to do OPS mod. I will check with Leroy about this FSU.
Click to expand...

See above.
 
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