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carcode ?s

hookedup50

hookedup50

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OK, I learned my lesson with snapon bricks and got my carcode cable today. I followed the procedures and get 12 degrees for actual and desired timing. My tdco is about +.09. How do you command it in the negative? I assume that moving the little red dot on the circle and up and down arrow do this. If this is correct and I can't get tdco in - spec I would imagine I need to move the pump. The how to instructions on here are pretty clear on the procedure, just no mention of how you actually command it. As usual thanks in advance. I have no codes and truck runs pretty good. Can't imagine how it will run when tuned better.
 
Yep, I used hat. It is not clear how to command + or - timing. It just says wait for desired timing and shut engine off.
 
You can't command a + or - value, you get what you get. You will have to move the IP to get a - value.
 
hit command several times (after waiting for a new TDCO #) and you'll see the range of numbers you can get. with a +.09 you'll probably need to move the IP to the drivers side
 
I'm real happy with carcode for the money. I got it set around -1.5 before the back pain got unbearable Sunday. I could'nt get out of bed Mon. except to drop off MRI reports to my GP. Seems I have a spinal infection that needs ruling out with blood test or antibiotics before discussion about herniated disks. I want to move the pump one more scribe line as I can get reading over 1.94 on relearn and already liking he quiet. Its gonna have to wait as the GF has told the neighbors to yell at me if working on truck.
 
As long as I does'nt throw a code. I got a code where pump is set. One of the #'s that shows up was-2.02. So I ran carcode again and lowest value I can get is-1.58 and left it there. It is staying there(pump) if it does not cause me troubles. It is way quieter now, and I feel better that reliable software set the timing. Hopefully I can recoup the mt2500 money off ebay where I got it, to pay for Tune for ATT.
 
hookedup50 said:
I could'nt get out of bed Mon. except to drop off MRI reports to my GP. Seems I have a spinal infection that needs ruling out with blood test or antibiotics before discussion about herniated disks.
Click to expand...

A spinal infection is not something to ignore. It's a very serious problem. A spinal staph infection is what very nearly did me in. By the grace of God I'm able to walk again. That event totally changed my life, and not for the good. Again, BE CAREFUL!!

Don
 
hookedup50 said:
As long as I does'nt throw a code. I got a code where pump is set. One of the #'s that shows up was-2.02. So I ran carcode again and lowest value I can get is-1.58 and left it there. It is staying there(pump) if it does not cause me troubles. It is way quieter now, and I feel better that reliable software set the timing. Hopefully I can recoup the mt2500 money off ebay where I got it, to pay for Tune for ATT.
Click to expand...

-1.58 will not generate a Diagnostic trouble code.

At least, it should not by OEM parameters.

It will start to sound louder as your ambient temperature drops (ie: winter) due to cold advance scheduling.

It will run the same, the rotating assembly and prechambers will just protest more on cold starts. Once warm it will sound as it does now.

As I mentioned in our correspondences, I run about -.75 to -.5 and my engine is quiet and runs well. Each 6.X I've run across seems to have it's own value it likes to run at where power and noise agree. Performance is better adjusted by adjusting the calibration files in the PCM than the pump position. that's the joy of having control over the calibration files.

If your back is troubling you, just leave it where it is until you're healthier. It will run fine at that value. If it's quiet enough for you as is, I would recommend you just leave it given your condition.

Then you can frig with it more later if you want.

Feel free to get in touch with me at the other place if you would like to discuss it further.

Best wishes that you mend quickly.
 
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