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Another BD Quick Spool Valve Install with A/C

Boost is all over the place and IMO overshoots the 18 PSI valve open setpoint. I have seen 21 PSI, but, the numbers are moving fast and the boost spikes during a shift.
The hot weather and underhood intake with AC on is not helping. I have not run it to 4th gear yet at freeway speed.

Video is in the works...
 
Interested to see this video. Unfortunately not many good-res ATT videos right now
 
With 2 drivers the impression in our hot weather of 116 degrees is as follows:
The engine runs smoother on acceleration. (There is no ATT light and launch feel as it is already lit.)
Has a lot more down low power.
Better down low power than the HX40II had. (Not a dyno peak number thing but rather the RPM the power comes on at.)
Smoke from hot dry weather clears up a lot faster. (Cooling fan and AC make for high loads from a stop.)

Engine is running 210 tops at idle in a parking lot with the AC on. This is hotter than it normally ran esp with all the cooling system trimmings. Low temp fan and t-stat etc. Minor observation as lots of things get hot at idle in AZ heat.

Recall I am running a 4" kitty and small precups that change the results over a normal 6.5.

I will dyno it again when the weather hits 66 degrees to compare to the other dyno runs. Hot weather kills too much power to compare.
 
6.5L said:
gotta swap them precups and ditch the cat. May not be possible there though
Click to expand...

Ditto on the precups. Get some 6.5 heads with diamond precups and make that engine right.

210 at idle is unacceptable regardless of where you're running it. I'm wondering whether it was due to the fail close BD Diverter Valve design, or the '93 radiator, or a combination of both. Regardless, that engine has no margin for error running like that.

As to the soot trap, punch out the honey comb and weld a 4" through pipe through it. I did that and simply remove my muffler and install the gutted soot trap for my CA smog test every two years. Passes every time with the ATT and no vac pump. No one ever checks the set-up. I wait for the day that I can roll coal into The face of Nancy Pelosi or Barbara Boxer.
 
6.5L said:
gotta swap them precups and ditch the cat. May not be possible there though
Click to expand...

The BD valve was the LAST step before pulling the engine. It has made enough of a difference that I can put off pulling the engine. I'll make it right one of these days. But it may be a year or two. At least I can serve as a bad example on precups and help spread the knowledge about going too small. Quite frankly no one on the forums knew and with success on the GM3 and 6.2 engine there wasn't any clues that small precups would be an issue. One member from the other forum had experience with the Banks sidewinder and 6.2's and said they smoke as well - after the fact. But that was useful in tracking the issue down, I'll give him credit for that.

Strangely enough the duramax cat is enjoyed for reducing the "damn smelly diesel" odor for other drivers of the 1995. If it is plugged it may get unplugged... I do roll coal through the cat. Not intentionally. The cat helps pass emissions. This thing has spectacularly failed more than it has passed...

I will be trying a tune from Dennis and see if it makes a difference.

The difference in the radiators is one has a fill cap. They are sized and built the same. I have had other vehicles in this 117 degree heat start to overheat at 30 min plus idle times. At least the temp rise stops at 210. Again this temp rise is an extended idle time while waiting for someone. A high idle switch may make a difference. (A project for the future.)
 
WarWagon said:
I have had other vehicles in this 117 degree heat start to overheat at 30 min plus idle times. At least the temp rise stops at 210. Again this temp rise is an extended idle time while waiting for someone. A high idle switch may make a difference. (A project for the future.)
Click to expand...

Same thing here. Some vehicles are just not engineered to operate in this heat. Many a trucks and cars get the a/c aux. fan wired so that as soon as the engine is running the fan comes on. Some for the engine heat others to pre-empt the a/c load rising temperature, start cooling before the heat load is applied.
 
Results of the first tank of fuel are 440 miles on 26.4 gal getting 16.66 MPG. Not bad for getting around 14 MPG prior to this.
 
WarWagon said:
Results of the first tank of fuel are 440 miles on 26.4 gal getting 16.66 MPG. Not bad for getting around 14 MPG prior to this.
Click to expand...
Those #s are after the QSV change only? if yes what was your MPG before ATT?
6.5L said:
Honestly I really didnt notice a change in fuel mileage with my BD valve
Click to expand...
For me personally I after MPG increases the extra power is just a bonus. I rarly tow anything. I want to build a combo that eaisly gets 25mpg and even close to 30!!

Kind of off the topic: but Im looking for an old Chevelle wagon or 1965-1967 Impala wagon to stick a 6.5 in. I think the MPGs can be had.
 
My MPG has been around and below 14 MPG with both the HX40II and ATT including on the 1993 pickup. Had one trip near 13 MPG with the HX40II all freeway. So this is a serious MPG improvement.

Videos posted here
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?39789-ATT-videos

And I find out the new radiator has a seriously defective trans oil cooler giving me blobs of red oil in the filler neck floating around in the coolant. I hate doing s#it over esp. in this heat!
 
13mpg highway?? with 3.73's??

I got 21 with 3.73's on a trip with stock fuel stock turbo. just a straight pipe.
 
pacificdrumma said:
13mpg highway?? with 3.73's??

I got 21 with 3.73's on a trip with stock fuel stock turbo. just a straight pipe.
Click to expand...

I get 20 MPG for sure or upwards of 23 MPG highway with 4:10's and the hx40 straight piped exhaust, etc, I do put it on the "economy" setting on my chip so truck is slow like and as little fueling.

But Your on the 93's with the mechanical pumps so that could be a reason on the difference perhaps? since its a fairly linear way it injects the fuel. It wont account for added boost or less boost etc, right?
 
Octane said:
I get 20 MPG for sure or upwards of 23 MPG highway with 4:10's and the hx40 straight piped exhaust, etc, I do put it on the "economy" setting on my chip so truck is slow like and as little fueling.
Click to expand...

Per US gallon?
 
Normal MPG for 6.5 turbo trucks is around 15 MPG. NA 6.2's get around 18-21. Mine are 4WD, it is out west with major grades (hills) around, and with AC on. I think my driveway is 7% alone. Also the speed limit is 75 with some places in Utah having 80 MPH.

Congrats if you are doing better.

The first drive on my stock 1993 was around 14 MPG. Towing it has seen 7. Bigger turbo's help with towing MPG.
 
Not sure on the us gallons, just used some sorta calculations off google. Its been a while since the truck seen any substantial drive or me having the money to keep toping it up to see what it really does get.

My trucks a 4x4 2500
 
I have seen 21mpg on my 1500 4x4 3.73s but 19ish is normal highway and 15-17 is normal day-to-day driving.

Your burb is probably heavier and terrain+driving style probably has something to do with your mpg too. You also said it takes boost to clear your smoke and boost takes fuel to make, precups might be biting you again.

All things considered I think your burb is normal and the 93 with 4.10's is about right Imo.

Sent from: Source Unknown
 
Sorry if it sounded like I was bragging or being rude, I was just surprised.

Last summer I did some MPG tests, both on a trip and around town. Around town yielded 15 and change, and 21 on the highway. That was with 285's and a straight pipe, just the stock exhaust with no soot trap and the muffler cut off. No turbo master, no cold air intake. My truck is 4x4, and its electronically injected, not mechanical.

I would imagine with the bigger turbo, and the engine making more power and theoretically having to work less hard, it would yield at least the same MPG as stock if not better.
 
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