Looking to get some grunt out of the old 6.5

[hookedup50]

XDP website. Fathers day thing.

 

[pacificdrumma]

Best CAI for the ATT?

 

[pacificdrumma]

Also, specs on the ATT?

 

[6.5L]

I still would go with an AFE Stage II. Not the best for cold air, but it is better than the stock panel and the whole setup is really easy to work with if swapping to an ATT, and especially if you are going to do the spool valve. I would not recommend any other product than the one from BD. It is well worth the money. Also, your CDR tube that gos to the intake will hit the hood if you use the the BD Valve. I cut the nipple off mine, plugged it, and routed my tube into the side of the AFE, using some pipe pieces and some spot welds. I recall mine being about $700+ when I got it. Make sure to get the T3-T4 mount, since the ATT can easily be drilled to accept the T4 mount and the manifold is T3. Works out perfect. With the right tools, we did the swap to the BD valve in about typical 8 hour day.

I was also thinking, with the spool valve, if you could find the right Holset, not only could you make the turbo into one fast spooling high performance turbo, but the bend for the downpipe wouldnt be so extreme either from the added lift from the BD valve, and would flow better in my opinion. just my thoughts.

 

[6.5L]

And the specs as far as I know are fairly guarded. All I know is that the large housing I am using currently is 18cm^2. I dont know what the standard housing or anything is.

 

[pacificdrumma]

Just curious what the compressor wheel size is, exhaust housing, etc. Just to compare to the HX40 and other turbos. I like the looks of the AFE intake more so than the S&B. I have my CDR dumping out into the air, not routed back into the filter. I think whatever intake I go with, I will keep a similar setup. I dont like the thought of dirty air going back into the engine.

 

[Burning oil]

Its 660.00

Thanks.

:idea: Time for a group buy to get the price down. Of course you would have to make a kit to relocate the accumulator or get it redesigned.

Wasint thinking of it. BUT! I'll see if I can do anything. I was just wondering how much just for my own rig.

Best CAI for the ATT?

For the money IMO get the K47


Just thinking out loud here: wonder if an exhaust brake could act like a QSV?.

 

[pacificdrumma]

Only reason I wouldnt do the K47 is because I dont want to relocate a battery. Ill keep it in mind though

 

[Burning oil]

That is a small issue if you want to "Ram Air it" but its still a great choice in the stock location too.

 

[WarWagon]

Only reason I wouldnt do the K47 is because I dont want to relocate a battery. Ill keep it in mind though

You don't have to move the battery for the K47 and ATT install. You do need a different side post arrangement for the HX40II.





Used Optima battery to clear the intake tube. (Optima batteries are trash nowadays.)

 

[pacificdrumma]

My only issue with the K47 setup is that the intake boots used are not round, more oblong, I would think using something with say a 4" pipe would be best. Thats why I like the AFE because there is no huge difference in the size of the boot. A friend of mine has a first gen 12v with a hybrid 35/40 turbo and he used 4" pipe on his intake and that thing moves a lot of air. Thats where I got the idea from.

 

[pacificdrumma]

Here's a picture of the truck, thought you guys might enjoy. She's my baby

 

[6.5L]

Looking very good!

 

[pacificdrumma]

Thanks! Pretty clean body, frame is pretty rusty but not rotted.

 

[Jorge6.5]

I used 4" silicone plumbing on my k47, I relocated it but it doesn't have to be

 

[Burning oil]

My only issue with the K47 setup is that the intake boots used are not round, more oblong, I would think using something with say a 4" pipe would be best. Thats why I like the AFE because there is no huge difference in the size of the boot. A friend of mine has a first gen 12v with a hybrid 35/40 turbo and he used 4" pipe on his intake and that thing moves a lot of air. Thats where I got the idea from.

Nice truck.

FWIW thought I'd mention it here then place an ad in classifieds.
I have found some more intake boots like I used on my K47. They will convert the odd shaped hole into a 4" round hole. Allowing 4" PVC or Exhaust pipe...ect
I only have 3 of them and am asking $24 ea + $9 shipping in USA.
Heres a pic.

 

[pacificdrumma]

Im not ready to start buying parts yet, but thanks for the offer!

Whats the best source for a 3 gauge setup? Im thinking boost pyro and trans temp, and so far glowshift is cheapest. Not gonna spend the money on Heath's setup and autometers. I have a grey interior, and would like to match it.

And whats a good way to run a fuel pressure gauge?

 

[Burning oil]

Check egauges . com
For Fuel PSI I'd recomend an electric gauge/sender. Main reason is if you run a manual gauge with a hose and get fuel inside the cab, it will stink forever after.

 

[pacificdrumma]

Also, I want to drop in the turbo and chip last, and do all the supporting stuff first. A friend of mine runs a raptor lift pump in his 6.5 and he uses 1/2" rubber line. Is it OKAY to run rubber line in place of steel? Winter??

 

[Turbine Doc]

Check egauges . com
For Fuel PSI I'd recomend an electric gauge/sender. Main reason is if you run a manual gauge with a hose and get fuel inside the cab, it will stink forever after.

That is why I used copper gauge line on mine much more durable than hose/nylon, yeah in might leak someday, but "I love smell of Diesel in the morning" used to "swim" in Diesel fuel back in my USN days as the ships "Fuel/Oil/Water King", I can cap the fitting if need be I've been mechanically gauged since 2004 no leaks yet, on my $10 gauge from autozone.