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No Boost, no GP's. connected, or coincidence? 95 6.5L 5spd 2wd.

GM Guy

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
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Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Hey all, coming back from Idaho, I had glows to start in the yard, but I think since then I had none. slept for an hour too many and she wouldnt re-start in Wyoming, 36 degrees. luckily I didnt crank too long, so I used pliers to arc across and get GPs and got going. after doing it again in the yard today, I sat in cab and dad jumped across, I see the GP light does come on.

also, I had boost all from nebraska to delivery in Nevada, and had it most of the way to Idaho. I might have lost boost the final leg, or same time as GPs, IDK.

about a month ago, it wouldnt hot crank, just on one occasion, on a seperate trip to Oklahoma, but hasnt ever done that again. Since I have a 5 speed and can bump start, I didnt get too concerned.

do I have a broken wire in the main engine harness? I notcied when I swapped GP relay yesterday the harness did looked smooshed a tad, so that is a possibility. I do still have the original Keyswitch AFAIK, so could that be the root of all issues? It also seems to spin a turn or two more than the others when cranking, and slower. those two may be related, wore starter spinning slower, so takes longer for ignition. I am aware that cranking way longer is a possible CPS.

any input appreciated, thanks!
 
Sorry, 95 GMC C2500HD RCLB 6.5L 5spd 2wd. the title gets a guy close, but I guess there are still 3 rigs that fit that description.

thought this would be minor, but checked codes for S&Gs and got a few:

29
49
57 (boost related, wastegate isnt shutting, had 21 inches or mercury when I left, will re-check vac again.)
78

battery hasnt been un-hooked since february, so plenty of history. the firewall baro sensor was hooked up and vac pump changed prior to the last trip, but batteries not un-hooked for those repairs.

also, am I supposed to get a code 12? dont seem to get one.
 
I am sad to admit, rookie mistake folks. ENG-I 20 amp fuse was blown on the underhood electrical center.

but that still ponders the question, why did it blow?

will a failing boost solenoid or GP controller cause the fuse to blow, so a new (or in my case good lower miled newer takeoff from a blown motor) one wont pull as hard and shouldnt blow?

We shift gears from Diagnostic to forensic... :) (as long as the new fuse gets GPs and boost back)
 
ok, went for a test drive into town to the sunflower plant to use the scale after hours, she weighs 5120 lbs, so with less crap in the cab and a full tank of fuel, I hope still ender 5200 lbs race weight.

anyhow, turbo is back! :)

should I leave the sensors on, or swap back to original to use them up all the way? will a failing GP controller or wastegate switch pull more amps and pop the fuse?
 
x2. Fuse can go bad for no reason.

Well, the horn did not work.

Check the fuse, it was ok.
Replace it anyway, then the horn works.

Go figure.
So I toss out the one that did not work.
Not worth the 20 cents cost of a fuse to investigate. LOL!!!
 
well, I had never changed that fuse, so it may have been getting old and it was its time.

time to put the old stuff back on and use it up! :)
 
GM Guy said:
well, I had never changed that fuse, so it may have been getting old and it was its time.

time to put the old stuff back on and use it up! :)
Click to expand...

It ain't broke...Time to go fix it!!! :hihi:

The harness may have a intermittent short at the pinch point/damaged area. Otherwise keep the 'spare parts' with you. After a hot test they should be ok. (You would be tracking a wire short if the parts test good while hot and the fuse pops again.)
 
it reared its ugly head again this fall before I left Idaho.

turns out (help from barry (bk95td) indirectly, he told someone who told me!) the fuel heater is on the same circuit, and when it goes bad it tends to short out. unhooked the heater and it quit blowing fuses, and I had boost and GPs ever since.
 
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