Motor on blocks

[cornemuse]

I have an '84 6.2 motor which has been sitting on blocks for about 8 years. It was a good running motor when I got it. What should be done before trying to start & run it?? Only issue is, I removed the glow plugs for use in another motor (a few years back) & didnt cover those holes. Any suggestions?? -corne-

 

[Burning oil]

I have an '84 6.2 motor which has been sitting on blocks for about 8 years. It was a good running motor when I got it. What should be done before trying to start & run it?? Only issue is, I removed the glow plugs for use in another motor (a few years back) & didnt cover those holes. Any suggestions?? -corne-

That might come back to hurt?
Change oil/filter, squirt some oil in GP holes, new GP's (not reused from the other truck:hihi.
Before you install new GPs try to turn engine by hand. If it turns then turn it a few times, add more oil to cylinder then turn it over with the starter a few times. Install GP's and see if it will fire.

Did I miss anything?

 

[bison]

Install a manual gauge in the OPS port,.Plug the oil cooler ports and spin the engine without the GP's with the starter till you get oil pressure.
That is if the engine is still on the blocks.

 

[WarWagon]

Keep in mine oil squirted in the GP holes will burn as soon as the compression comes up.
The GP holes are so small as to not be a concern.

From the low mile military engines I got:
(They run fine without the recommendations, but, it is easy to do while the engine is out.)
I would do an minor overhaul. Deglaze the cylinder walls and put in new rings. Check for cracks in the mains.
Rings will help with blowby.
Even better is gapless rings that will make near zero blowby and keep the oil way cleaner. Expensive but worth it.
You should not need bearings or need to remove the crankshaft to do this.

The cylinders that were left with a valve open tend to get a little rust. These are the ones that benefit the most from deglazing and new rings.

New seals for the crank, new HB unless you have a good one.

Replace the timing chain.

Head studs or new TTY head bolts.

Rocker arm buttons.

 

[turbovanman]

Keep in mine oil squirted in the GP holes will burn as soon as the compression comes up.
The GP holes are so small as to not be a concern.

From the low mile military engines I got:
(They run fine without the recommendations, but, it is easy to do while the engine is out.)
I would do an minor overhaul. Deglaze the cylinder walls and put in new rings. Check for cracks in the mains.
Rings will help with blowby.
Even better is gapless rings that will make near zero blowby and keep the oil way cleaner. Expensive but worth it.
You should not need bearings or need to remove the crankshaft to do this.

The cylinders that were left with a valve open tend to get a little rust. These are the ones that benefit the most from deglazing and new rings.

New seals for the crank, new HB unless you have a good one.

Replace the timing chain.

Head studs or new TTY head bolts.

Rocker arm buttons.

Have you used gapless rings? I have once in the past on my turbo Minivan and wasn't impressed but I think they sent me the wrong ones. How much are they and do you get them from Total Seal?

 

[WarWagon]

The results in the visibly cleaner engine oil tell the story alone. She still has cleaner engine oil then the 1995. More info in the link. They appear to be hard to find - but search and see if you can find a price and have them match it. These special 6.5 and 6.2 rings are made to order and never in stock.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?29135-Total-Seal-Gapless-rings

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

I had my rings machined by Total Seal, 10.00$ each ring, next day service & shipping back to me.... much cleaner oil and no blow by......

 

[turbovanman]

I had my rings machined by Total Seal, 10.00$ each ring, next day service & shipping back to me.... much cleaner oil and no blow by......

Hmmmmm, interesting ,thanks for both replies.