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Help needed 98 Suburban - tryiing to change the CPS - fouled by the PS pump

C

curto

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Guys,

having some weird issues with my 98 suburban - have been through the whole new PMD/harness thing and no changes - no codes being thrown at this point.

I am set to change the CPS and then the OS if the problems do not resolve.

I have the CPS loosened and free in its hole but can not get it the last 10mm out to remove it as the PS pump is fouling it.

On the other forums i have been advised to loosen 3 bolts and the PS should come loose - i have done this (and found two more besides) and have a tiny amount of movement but nothing near what i need.

When looking at the casting that is bolted to the engine that supports the AC coompresser and the PS it looks like a bolt through job from the front and hence why i can not get much movement.

Does anyone know how to drop the PS pump out of one of these ?

Craig
 
You need a P/S pulley puller. Its a special puller. In the states most auto parts stores have the tool they will loan out.
After pulley is off its pretty straight forward as what to do next.

Welcome to TTS. Got any pics of your Burb?
 
OK thanks - can this be done with it in the car and the raditator/fan still in ?

Burning oil said:
You need a P/S pulley puller. Its a special puller. In the states most auto parts stores have the tool they will loan out.
After pulley is off its pretty straight forward as what to do next.

Welcome to TTS. Got any pics of your Burb?
Click to expand...

I will post up some pics of the car later today - it is an Aussie K2500 98 model - bit of a frankenstein that Australia had GM make in the Selinas plant in Mexico.

RHD - so we have the dash from a tahoe that is stretched to fit somehow.

Centre mount turbo like the vans etc.

Craig
 
Would still be cool to see some pictures. I think the dash is out of an S10 though right?
 
I've never had to move the power steering pump to pull the CPS. Try accessing it from underneath.
 
Big T said:
I've never had to move the power steering pump to pull the CPS. Try accessing it from underneath.
Click to expand...

Yep thats the way i am doing it - spent 1/2 the day under there yesterday trying to get it out - got most of the bolts on the PS loose but it will not budge (yes i have taken off the serpentine pulley).

I think i am going to have to remove the PS pump - but do not have the tool to take the pulley off to get it out

Craig
 
I've not had to remove pump either.

Anyway, Im confused now you said you have taken the serpantine pulley off, but then said you don't have the tool to remove it.
Got any pictures of the problem areas.
 
I loosened the entire bracket that holds the A/C compressor and the PS pump and removed the rear PS bracket to get enough clearance for CPS replacement.
I did not remove the PS pulley or loosen the bolts behind it.
 
Burning oil said:
I've not had to remove pump either.

Anyway, Im confused now you said you have taken the serpantine pulley off, but then said you don't have the tool to remove it.
Got any pictures of the problem areas.
Click to expand...

Sorry - i do not have the tool to remove the pulley from the pump - but i have loosened the whole serpentine belt so that it is not placing tension on the pump

I will get some pics later today


Craig
 
racer55 said:
I loosened the entire bracket that holds the A/C compressor and the PS pump and removed the rear PS bracket to get enough clearance for CPS replacement.
I did not remove the PS pulley or loosen the bolts behind it.
Click to expand...

Hey Racer,

Thanks for the update - you would not happen to have pics of where the bolts are for that bracket - when i look at mine it seems like they run right down the side of the engine block ?

Craig
 
Been raining solidly here for 3 days now - no chance to get out and work on the truck or get any pics - will get them ASAP

Craig
 
OK got the bastard out in the end - for any other aussies - this is not trivial

Need to get underneath - remove the bash plate and front diff plate.

Lie on your back just under the front of the car - look up and you will see the Power Steering pump - just towards the drivers side of that is the CPS - it has 3 wires going into it and a bolt that holds it in - 13mm iirc

Remove the bolt

Then slide further back and look up and the power steering pump

Behind the pulley wheel are two bolts - undo those with a ring spanner - long slow and fiddly - the bolts can not drop out so no need to worry here

A little further to the back of the PS pump - you will see a triangular black bracket - this holds the PS to the engine frame - it has 3 nuts that need to be removed - once you have this off you will be able to get a fair bit of movement with the PS pump and should be able to get the CPS out

Craig
 
So you moved the pump over to shift it out of the way to gain clearence so CPS could be removed, right??
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Glad you got it.....You still owe us some pics.:thumbsup:

What was the issue?........And did the CPS solve the problem?
Click to expand...

Its a long one and still ongoing - i originally raised it on the other forum (before i found you guys !) so have kept it running there.

Basically the car would not maintain idle - did the basic tests (2000 RPPM etc) and they all pointed to a faulty IP. But before biting the bullet on that (i am in Australia, and these cars are as rare as Rocking Horse Sh*T) i wanted to isolate everything else it could be, so i replaced

CPS - No Change
PMD - No change
PMD extension and harness on pump - no change

I had already done all the basic troubleshooting in terms of fuel lines, fuel delivery, air in the fuel lines, air in the return lines etc, checked and cleaned all grounds and the like

Once all of this was done the only way to get stable revs was to disconnect the OS - which obviously put the car into limp mode but let me drive it to the mechanics.

Got a new pump in from Kennedy Diesel and had the mechanic install that - following the steps given by others on here and the other forum - scribed marks lined up and all good - car fired up with only one injector cracked and ran fine for a 50KM drive.

I had not at this stage performed a TDCO as i was waiting for CarCode to arrive.

The next day the car would not start despite extended cranking - checked my code reader (Autel Maxitrip) and it gave me a CPS code - checked this and the cable was loose - looked like the mechanic had not locked it in well enough

Now it looks like the combination of the new pump and the CPS disconnected has forced a relearn on the TDCO - because the car was real hard to start and ran terribly - this is the day after it started beautifully.

So the next day my Carcode arrived, and i hooked it up, started the car (after much cranking) and attempted to work out how to use CarCode based on the HowTo Racer supplied - not real sucessful and along the way the pump went from having a value of +1.3 to +2.46 - as it was getting worse at that point and i could hardly keep it going - i shut it off and went looking for more help on the other forum in terms of how to use CarCode properly.

The car has not started again since that shutoff

I am no getting any fuel at the Injectors, but have verified fuel at the return on the pump and that the solenoid is operating OK

(i have been through all the diagnostics this week again - with replacing the PMD, moving it near the pump and bypassing my harness etc)

In the end i burnt out my starter and have just had to order a new one.

That will arrive on Monday.

Have just spoken to John Kennedy and he thinks it is unlikely the pump has failed this quickly

He thinks the pump is now refusing to pump fuel because it is timed so far out and suggests moving it 1mm to the right to try and get it back into a reasonable approximation for timing

So thats where i am at

And yep i do owe you some pictures !!!

I will post them up tomorrow

Craig
 
ak diesel driver said:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?9198-OBDII

this thread has a step by step instructions for doing TDCO with Carode
Click to expand...

Yep that is the one i followed - it is more the software is horrible - there are buttons and scrollbars that do not do anything.

As a newbie (to doing a TDCO) and using Carcode i found it scared me 1/2 to death !

Anyway Racer has turned this into a PDF and then one of the other guys has extended it with some more info on the other forum.

Once i have my truck running again i am going to try and enhance this write up a bit for someone new to the whole process.

Craig
 
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