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Gettin' there Red!:thumbsup:
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red's 12 valve conversion
- Thread starter red
- Start date
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
little by little. figure it will take me 2 weeks to get it finished, mostly because i'll be out of town next week for vacation and will be waiting for some transmission parts such as the clutch fork and the shifter to arrive.
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
got the first test fit done!
looks like i'm going to have to move the crossmember either 1" forward or move it down some. going to try downwards first, should provide the most clearance with the firewall and the hydroboost system for when the motor moves. only other issue is the 4" exhaust downpipe is hitting the firewall, if moving the motor down doesnt fix it i might just get it turned tighter for clearance.
looks like i'm going to have to move the crossmember either 1" forward or move it down some. going to try downwards first, should provide the most clearance with the firewall and the hydroboost system for when the motor moves. only other issue is the 4" exhaust downpipe is hitting the firewall, if moving the motor down doesnt fix it i might just get it turned tighter for clearance.
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
hmm, not sure but i think there is a truck sitting in the shop.....
Ed HD
Formerly: Dad's 05 LLY
Looking good!!!
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Lookin' good!
If the down pipe is hitting firewall, is there any reason you can't flip the exhaust manifold and put the turbo on the bottom.
Not sure what you have in the way there......
If the down pipe is hitting firewall, is there any reason you can't flip the exhaust manifold and put the turbo on the bottom.
Not sure what you have in the way there......
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
got to working on the plumbing today and checking over everything that i'll need for the engine.
1. Exhaust downpipe bent steeper
2. radiator hoses
3. turbo oil drain tube
4. intercooler tubes
5. valve cover gaskets
6. air filter and intake tube
7. fuel lines
8. clutch line modified to use the dodge slave cylinder and the chevy master cylinder
9. hydroboost hose from pump to brake booster high pressure
10. flywheel bolts (flexplate bolts too short)
11. the engine wiring
12. fan pulley (mechanical fan clutch is stuck)
13. engine belt thats shorter since i'm not using the dodge ac compressor
14. speedo cable
the down pipe needs a slightly sharper bend to clear the firewall, figure a 2nd bend a few inches after the first turn should make enough clearance without affecting the flow much. never thought about flipping the manifold over, currently alot of empty space there.
1. Exhaust downpipe bent steeper
2. radiator hoses
3. turbo oil drain tube
4. intercooler tubes
5. valve cover gaskets
6. air filter and intake tube
7. fuel lines
8. clutch line modified to use the dodge slave cylinder and the chevy master cylinder
9. hydroboost hose from pump to brake booster high pressure
10. flywheel bolts (flexplate bolts too short)
11. the engine wiring
12. fan pulley (mechanical fan clutch is stuck)
13. engine belt thats shorter since i'm not using the dodge ac compressor
14. speedo cable
the down pipe needs a slightly sharper bend to clear the firewall, figure a 2nd bend a few inches after the first turn should make enough clearance without affecting the flow much. never thought about flipping the manifold over, currently alot of empty space there.
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Here's another with the old downpipe and elbow.
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
so obvious yet i completely overlooked it, your a genius sometimes.
gonna go try it out, see how well it works.
gonna go try it out, see how well it works.
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
well that didnt work, the turbo interferes with the heater core box when the manifold is mounted upside down because the manifold shifts it a little too far outwards from the motor. more willing to have the downpipe rebent a little steeper than to tear into the heater core box. when i go to compound turbos in about a year i wont have to worry about it.
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Ahhhh, that sucks.
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
yea, good attempt though. if i wasnt running ac i could use the heater only box which is skinnier which would take care of the issue and would make it perfect, but i want working ac in the tow rig lol.
Ed HD
Formerly: Dad's 05 LLY
Are you planning on running electric or a mechanical fan? Electric wouldn't be much more work, and you'll have more power, less drag and more efficient cooling if you make a simple shroud and attach a pair of fans and run a thermostatic setup. Just a thought. 
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Ed HD
Formerly: Dad's 05 LLY
I agree, A/C is not worth not having. I'll give up 50 HP for A/C, LOL.
Like my dad said, he'd take our 65 C60 Cross-country, except he'd put A/C in it first.
Like my dad said, he'd take our 65 C60 Cross-country, except he'd put A/C in it first.
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
ha, only the 2nd vehicle i've had with working ac, not for me its for whoever is riding with me on long trips lol. i'm just as comfy with the windows down.
planning on using an electric fan, little bit thinner so provides more clearance between the radiator and engine, doesnt require much more work agreed.
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Just watch it with the e-fans.
They're not rated for as many CFM as the engine fan is.
The normal engine fan is rated at approx 8000 CFM. The e-fans, like the Flex-A-Lite 264's that are on mine are rated at 5500 CFM and are not recommended if you gross over 18K lbs.
I really don't have that problem, but for some folks it is a consideration.
They're not rated for as many CFM as the engine fan is.
The normal engine fan is rated at approx 8000 CFM. The e-fans, like the Flex-A-Lite 264's that are on mine are rated at 5500 CFM and are not recommended if you gross over 18K lbs.
I really don't have that problem, but for some folks it is a consideration.
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
i'll go over that weight with towing, is there a way to counter that? pusher fan will be difficult since the intercooler takes up basicly all of the area behind the grill.
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
If you're going over that, I'd suggest staying with the mechanical fan.
Yeah, it eats up 25 - 30 HP if it's on at highway speeds, but......the alternative is overheating.
Now, I will say this.....the cooling system on these things is so overbuilt it's not even funny.
When I first put my truck back together, I ran it for 2 days with no fans at all. This was, what July / August here in Alabama and it never went over-temp. As soon as the the temp came up to normal and the t-stat opened, the temps stayed right in check.
My suggestion would be this.....
Run the mechanical fan first and see how it's doing. You already have it, so it's no skin off your back. If you decide to swap to e-fans later, you can drop the coin then. Just make sure you FULLY shroud the radiator.
Yeah, it eats up 25 - 30 HP if it's on at highway speeds, but......the alternative is overheating.
Now, I will say this.....the cooling system on these things is so overbuilt it's not even funny.
When I first put my truck back together, I ran it for 2 days with no fans at all. This was, what July / August here in Alabama and it never went over-temp. As soon as the the temp came up to normal and the t-stat opened, the temps stayed right in check.
My suggestion would be this.....
Run the mechanical fan first and see how it's doing. You already have it, so it's no skin off your back. If you decide to swap to e-fans later, you can drop the coin then. Just make sure you FULLY shroud the radiator.