• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

How to remove the blower on the 94 K3500?

J

jrsavoie

Recruit
Messages
10,969
Reaction score
10,842
Location
Rural Clifton, Illinois
Do you need to remove the PCM?
The glove box is out.
The books I have make it sound pretty simple like the old 89 I had. But there seems to be a little more to getting to this one.
What all do I have to take out of the way?
 
After my ugly repair I read a thread on the PCM mount/bracket. It appears fairly easy to unclip the PCM. Might try that to see how to get the back of the rubber cover off. IMO that was the hardest to getting the motor out. Then its just tight and some tedious positions to contort into in the floor to get comfortable to get at it. Really not that bad except for that rubber cover.
 
I pulled out the PCM and hung it out of the way. Removed the PCM mounting bracket.

Every screw for the whole job was 7mm hex.

I removed the lower dash light.

We broke the fan pulling it out requiring further disassembly of the dash to install the new fan.

We removed the first 2 screws from the door threshold, the dash pivot cover and removed the 13mm head bolt just above the pivot stud allowing us to pull the dash out enough to install the fan.

While I was there I added an additional 10 ga. ground wire with 5/16 eyelet going to the bolt we had removed. !0 ga. was overkill but it was within reach.

Specialty tools that made the job much easier:
1/4" Craftsman cordless/battery ratchet. Similar to this one only the switch on mine is less obtrusive - it's pretty much flush with just the switch sticking out. On mine the head swivels so you can have the switch where it doesn't bump and to improve access in a tight spot.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...+Compressors+&+Air+Tools&sName=Ratchets&mv=tr

$4 1/4" ratchet driver with 1/4" hex to square drive. Similar to this one. Mine is slightly smaller, has a very fine ratcheting action and has a reversing switch. It also came with more bits than this one.
http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CD8Q8wIwBA#
 
You have to turn the motor 'plate' a special way to squeeze the fan cage in and out and have the motor clear the dash. Most new motors have the cage included. The deep PCM tray bolt gets left out of reassembly...

Now is the time to vacuum dirt out the evaporator coil and wash it with a garden hose and scrubbing bubbles. Be careful not to overload the drain pan when spraying the evaporator with water.
 
You are absolutely correct. Except I forgot the part about rinsing the coil.

WarWagon said:
You have to turn the motor 'plate' a special way to squeeze the fan cage in and out and have the motor clear the dash. Most new motors have the cage included. The deep PCM tray bolt gets left out of reassembly...

Now is the time to vacuum dirt out the evaporator coil and wash it with a garden hose and scrubbing bubbles. Be careful not to overload the drain pan when spraying the evaporator with water.
Click to expand...
 
"added an additional 10 ga. ground wire "

This reminds me to look at and fix my HVAC supply connector above the blower motor. Mine, on the 1993, looked melted like the 1995's are known to do. I did not think the older years had this problem till I had the dash out of the 1993...
 
remove the PCM, PCM tray and that gives you access to the boot/cover top screws. Remove those, take it out and the whole fan motor comes right out after removing the mount screws for it. It's about a 15 minute job for the removal portion. I don't recall a need to squeeze the cage for removal or installation at all. Doing this could result in breaking the cage apart. No need to pivot the dash or anything of the sort.

It sounds like you went through a lot of extra work to get to that blower motor.
 
No extra work just did everything we had to do. The blower would not come out - no matter which side was up. We did have the inch and a quarter side up.

It says in the book to remove that bolt to remove the fan.

My 89 came apart as you described but it had no ECM or rubber cover.
 
I guess as long as it's done, that's the important part. I've done blower motors in my old '90 and in my wife's '94 Suburban and I recall them both being quite simple. My '95 with the new style dash was about equal, as well
 
When I've changed out those actuator door motors in the past, it's not been a bad job - just time consuming. Incidentally, I have an OEM motor if you're interested. I bought it for our GP, but ended up not needing it. I'd sell it for what I paid for it. Send me a PM if you're in need - not trying to hijack the thread, though...

I didn't find the blower motors to be a really bad job, myself. It sounds much worse than it really is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top