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Bought 2 cans of Sea Foam,,,

Pruittx2

Pruittx2

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I thought I'd warm up the truck, then remove fuel filter, suck out diesel, fill fuel manager with the SeaFoam, put lid back on, start truck, flip on the high idle switch, and let it run for about 5 minutes. then put filter back in and put the rest of the foam in the tank.
Any thoughts?
 
Why would you remove the filter then run it? Just put the sea foam in and run it but keep the filter
 
i have used it on the diesel rabbit and not had a prob. it has a lot of alcohol in it. i wouldn't run it straight but mixing shouldn't be a problem. i would worry about it drying out the rubber parts.
 
I read about it back at the place, it was used in the 6.5 to clean the OS. Never heard of any problems
 
I used it right after I bought my truck and thought it just had a bad injector. A diesel mechanic friend of mine suggested using sea foam. I removed the filter housing lid and sucked out the fuel with a large syringe, filled it with sea foam, put the lid back on and fired her up - ran fine, exhaust smelled funny....but it didn't fix my problem. Sea Foam is good stuff but unfortunately it couldn't replace the plastic guide button on one of the exhaust valve rocker arms......I wonder if sea foam knew it was on the turbo side....hmmmm :D
 
I've used sea foam as a fuel stabilizer for a few years. Works good.I also used it to clean the crankcase of gunk. I ran it for 30 min. before oil change. Worked good. I've never tried it for a fuel system cleaner on a diesel. Running anything through without a filter is a very bad idea ,in my opinion .
 
You are better off with B50 biodiesel - it will clean your system and plug a filter from all the dirt it gets free.

I would worry about high alcohol content and putting water into suspension rather than letting it drop out. Suspended water gets through the fuel filter. You don't want to go there - unless you need a new IP and injectors.
 
Well I run in the summer Up to B80 or so. I know of the effects of BioDiesel's cleaning abilities, but, Do you suppose it also keeps the injectors clean,, Also in Michigan, you won't be running any Bio for about 5 more months!
 
i am thinking of running seafoam in my 6.5 as well. going to try it out when my next oil change is due. only 2000km more to go. also i am thinking of using there trans tune in my 4l80. anyone have any thoughts on that?
 
jms said:
i am thinking of running seafoam in my 6.5 as well. going to try it out when my next oil change is due. only 2000km more to go. also i am thinking of using there trans tune in my 4l80. anyone have any thoughts on that?
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In the crankcase or in the fuel?
 
I'm running a can of Seafoam in my blazer right now to try and clean up a sticky lifter. The stuff does work. My lifter tick used to be loud and obnoxious but now it's probably 1/2 if not less than 1/2 the volume that it was and i've only put maybe 5-600 miles on it.

One guy on DP said he used it in his oil for a sticky lifter in a 6.2 and after 1200 miles the lifter tick was totally gone.
 
iamdave0887 said:
I'm running a can of Seafoam in my blazer right now to try and clean up a sticky lifter. The stuff does work. My lifter tick used to be loud and obnoxious but now it's probably 1/2 if not less than 1/2 the volume that it was and i've only put maybe 5-600 miles on it.

One guy on DP said he used it in his oil for a sticky lifter in a 6.2 and after 1200 miles the lifter tick was totally gone.
Click to expand...

I would be worried about Sea Foam drying out IP/Injectors and hurting the lubricating properties of diesel. Running in the oil for ~500 miles or so before an oil change doesn't sound that bad. That could clean up all kinds of things in these engines.
 
tanman_2006 said:
I would be worried about Sea Foam drying out IP/Injectors and hurting the lubricating properties of diesel. Running in the oil for ~500 miles or so before an oil change doesn't sound that bad. That could clean up all kinds of things in these engines.
Click to expand...

I'll be keeping it in for a little while longer(maybe another 500-700 miles or so) and then i'll be dumping the Rotella SAE30 that's in there now out and putting Rotella T 15w-40 in. I may dump another can of Seafoam in with that oil change since it seems to work very well.
 
My understanding is that Sea Foam and similar solvent-based quick-action cleaners might be dangerous. The concern is that if the engine has heavy varnish and carbon deposits, then the solvent will loosen them up immediately, placing the deposits in suspension in the oil. If the deposits are heavy, then they might stay 'thick and goopy', and clog oil passages, causing engine damage when used in the crankcase. This is also true when using in fuel in high concentrations, except there they would just clog the filter and stop the engine.

I have run hundreds of gallons of biodiesel through both my 6.5s. I did it in stages. Since B100 (100% biodiesel) is easily available to me (and has a very high solvent action), I started with a 20% mix with #2 petrodiesel for a couple of tanks. I then moved to B50, then B75, finally B100. It took me many tanks to get to B100, and I had to change the fuel filters a couple of times as they loaded up. And yes, they were loaded up for sure. Now, they seem to have very little deposits on them, especially when I am running B100 in the summers.

I am therefore pretty sure that my fuel system and intake systems are pretty clear and clean. The rigs certainly run well.

As far as the engine oil sump and internal deposits, I haven't done anything so far. I am considering using a slow-acting solvent that goes under the name of "AutoRX". It is supposed to SLOWLY remove the buildups over thousands of miles. The idea is that by removing them slowly, you can keep everything in suspension, and the oil filter will catch the dissolved crud. It's pretty expensive compared to Sea Foam, however.

I DID use Sea Foam in my wife's mini-van however. My reasoning there was that I've always used synthetic oil in it, and from what I could see, the build-up of deposits was quite minimal. I put Sea Foam in the crankcase and ran the car at high idle for 45 minutes. I can certainly say that the oil seemed darker than normal, so I am pretty sure I flushed some deposits out.

Anyway, I wanted to share the concerns I have with some of the 'quick' engine flush concepts. Putting Sea Foam into the fuel manager seems like a fine idea. Should help clear the injectors.

I'm probably going to pull an injector off the Tahoe and get it tested at some point, or just replace them all. I'm pretty sure they are the originals, with 185K on them. I wonder how much the B100 has cleared them. The truck certainly is running quite well.

-Rob :)
 
x2, SeaFoam is a very harsh solvent cleaner. Good but you don't want to use it as regular.

Generally, alcohol (naphta in SeaFoam) dry up the diesel fuel even more causing it to have less lubricity. It is working good in the gasser because that is what they put in the gasoline anyway (E10= 10% Alcohol). If you want to pass emission sniffer inspection, put a gallon of alcohol in an almost empty tank and you will pass it with flying color.

As far as using it in the crankcase, I have used Auto-RX with stellar results. It is slow. As a matter of fact, I am doing another treatment now in my Suburban since I am going to drive it for interstate trip totaling more than 2500 miles round trip. The cleaning and rinse phases of Auto-RX can total up to 6000 to 7500 miles with hot long distance driving. Auto-RX cleaning ability is better with hot long distance driving.

I have used it in 2 Diesel suburban and 3 gasser sedan (older Camry). All with good results. I did not do any compression or surgery to the engine, that is why I use it. So there is no scientific proof that it is working other than the trucks/cars have better pull after a stop.
 
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