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Brake Drums and Axle Seals

buddy

buddy

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California, central coast
Hey all,

I have a blinking parking brake light, 4 short then 1 long, its constant from moment I turn key to on. Anyone have the definition for this?

I can't find the definition of this in my manuals, but discerned that typically a fluid pressure problem to front or back. Well discs and calipers all looked good and plenty of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.

I pulled rear wheels off and opened drums and on one side the cylinder has no seal left and is leaking, and other side looks to be leaking a little too. I haven't had to add fluid at all in the last 2.5 years, but imagine this has been this way a while since the cylinder seal is so far gone.

Is swapping the cylinders an easy task? It looks like not a big deal. The drum pads look fine too, probably because they havent had good pressure in a long time.

Also, someone that put my new tires on thought my axle seal was leaking. I dont think it is, because I havent seen a bit of fluid outside of the drum, and the wet brake dust in there could have just been from the brake cylinder leaking. I'm going to fix the brake fluid leak and clean up the area and monitor occasionally. Are the seals easy enough to replace if there is a leak? Get tapered repair bearings, new seals, pop open the differential to pull the axle out?

Thanks for any insight!
 
The brake pistons are easy to change, on the back side of the mounting plate there is 1 or 2 bolts holding it on, can't remember for sure. I've never had to do an axle seal but I'm sure it could be pried out after the axle is removed.
 
Yeah, its a 1/2 ton with 10-bolt differential 3.42 gears

I think there is a clip inside the differential that holds the axle on, and I'd have to pull axle out, pull off old bearing and seal, put new bearing and seal and slide axle back in, reclip it.
 
NVW said:
The brake pistons are easy to change, on the back side of the mounting plate there is 1 or 2 bolts holding it on, can't remember for sure. I've never had to do an axle seal but I'm sure it could be pried out after the axle is removed.
Click to expand...

I'm hoping its easy, so it doesnt eat up too much of the morning.

On Rockauto it has a few options for 10" or 11" drums, and the cylinder bore is different. Anyone know if I measure the inside of the spinning drum cover where the pads contact to slow down? I imagine having the same issue at the parts store with two options for C1500s.

I just wonder how I am not losing more fluid from the reservoir.
 
To pull the axle you will have to remove the rear cover and remove the axle "c" clip and the axle will slide right out. Don't forget a New Gasket and Axle Fluid. You will have to have the bearing pressed off and back on at a shop. Measure the inside of the drum straight across for shoe size. Removing the seal is easy with a seal puller bought or rented at any Auto Parts Store.
 
MAGNUM SERVICES said:
To pull the axle you will have to remove the rear cover and remove the axle "c" clip and the axle will slide right out. Don't forget a New Gasket and Axle Fluid. You will have to have the bearing pressed off and back on at a shop.
Click to expand...

Thanks, sounds like you have some experience with this.

Sounds very doable.
 
I just use red silicon for the gasket, it doesn't need to be the red but I always have a tube of it on hand.
 
DTC 41 Brake switch circuit fault. Circuit discription: The tcc normally closed brake switch supplies a B+ signal on circuit 420 to the PCM. The circuit is opened when the brakes are applied.
The stop lamp/cruise control normally open brake switch supplies a B+ signal on CKT 820 to the pcm when the brake is applied.
DTC 41 will set when:Switches disagree for more than 10 consecutive minutes OR TCC and cruise control switches are not toggling open and closed during 6 brake applications on same ignition cycle.
Action taken:[PCM will default to]:An incorrect brake signal can affect TCC, 4th gear operation, in hot mode and cruise control.

I have the whole test procedure if needed.
 
buddy said:
Yeah, its a 1/2 ton with 10-bolt differential 3.42 gears

I think there is a clip inside the differential that holds the axle on, and I'd have to pull axle out, pull off old bearing and seal, put new bearing and seal and slide axle back in, reclip it.
Click to expand...
I thought the diesel 1/2 tons had the 9 1/2" 14 bolt semi-floating rear axle? Maybe it was just 4x4 that did?:confused:
 
bk95td said:
DTC 41 Brake switch circuit fault. Circuit discription: The tcc normally closed brake switch supplies a B+ signal on circuit 420 to the PCM. The circuit is opened when the brakes are applied.
The stop lamp/cruise control normally open brake switch supplies a B+ signal on CKT 820 to the pcm when the brake is applied.
DTC 41 will set when:Switches disagree for more than 10 consecutive minutes OR TCC and cruise control switches are not toggling open and closed during 6 brake applications on same ignition cycle.
Action taken:[PCM will default to]:An incorrect brake signal can affect TCC, 4th gear operation, in hot mode and cruise control.

I have the whole test procedure if needed.
Click to expand...

So the parking lamp works the same as the SES light? Thats interesting, although I didnt have to jumper anything and this is blinking the code all the time. Maybe because its a bit more of a safety hazard and if it was just lit it would make me think the parking brake switch is busted. And people usually ignore SES lights.

I have them procedure to, once you make that connection.
 
Most GM semi floating axles are removed by

1) remove diff cover

2) turn the carrier assembly and there will be a bolt that goes through a pin that goes right through the carrier.

3) once the bolt is out then the pin will slide out, this pin holds the end of the axles outwards, Once the pin is out you will be able to push the axles in and the "C" clips will fall out. Do not turn the axles or the spider gears that they go through will eventually come out as will the thrust washers behind them. Not the end of the world but will need some playing around the get them back in so they are exactly 180* opposite of each other.

4) now the axles will slide out, I used to use the axle end to pry the seal out.

5) the bearing remains in the axle tube, check the axle where the bearing rides (smooth machine surface) if it is worn and pitted both the axle bearing and axles will have to be replaced.

6) If the axle and bearings are good, I usually pack the inside of the axle seal with a white grease, other wise when you hammer the new seal in with a seal driver there is a small circle spring inside the seal which squeezes the rubber against the axle for a better seal and it will come off and you will have another axle seal leak.
 
bk95td said:
I thought the diesel 1/2 tons had the 9 1/2" 14 bolt semi-floating rear axle? Maybe it was just 4x4 that did?:confused:
Click to expand...

I dont know, but it is semi-floating still, just 10-bolt. Could be a 2WD thing I guess. I assume having the larger ring gear of the 14-bolt is better. It may have also depended on the wheel size when ordered, because this one came with little 15" with 235/75R15 tires.
 
The wheel cylinder are probably different from the 1500 series to the light duty 2500 series. They usually go by the drum size and will be stamped on the outside of the drum. Should be visible if you don't live in the rust belt.

When removing the wheel cylinders there are two bolts holding them to the backing plate, they are usually pretty easy to remove. Even if they break just need new bolts which sometimes are even provided with the new cylinders. I would replace them regardless.

The biggest problem is usually the brake line if real rusted they will break. Sometimes if not bad a little heat and penetrating oil will work. If they break, just get the length and get new ones. Parts places have the straight length ones that you can bend yourself, just don't kink them.

After they are in just fill the master cylinder and leave the bleeder valves open for a while until fluid comes out without bubbles. Then close them and pressure bleed manually.

Good luck
 
If you have a pump, you can hook it up to the bleeder and pump til you fill the reservior. It's still easier with 2 people or a long corded switch if you have an electric pump.
 
If the axle is rough where the bearing rides[providing it has flat roller bearing ] you can get a "axle Saver Bearing". The axle saver rides on a different place on the axle from the original. They are rather spendy compared to a regular bearing but much cheaper than new axles. I have these on both sides on my monte carlo SS 10 bolt.
 
Cool, I changed the drum cylinders and bled all the lines. I checked my differential gear oil, and it was still right at the bottom of the bolt hole with it level. And once I cleaned all the pad dust out of the drum and around the axle it didnt seem like there was any evidence of an axle seal leak. If it was leaking would differential fluid make it out or just all the bearing grease?

Maybe the shop just wanted more work to do. They were telling me I'd probably need two new axles, because the repair bearing usually dont work. Probably just being crooks.
 
I've had the axle saver bearings in my monte carlo for over 60,000miles. By the time I do need axles I won't be able to get them,if I could now.
 
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