Remote mount turbo thread.-progress and questions!

[turbovanman]

I am hopefully going to start it soon so I'll start the thread then you guys can help with questions I post.

First couple are, I am switching from an HX35 to an HY35, figure that will be a better match for the auto van and help reduce lag soooooo-

What to do about the EGT gauge? Where should I put the probe? At the header collector or one cylinder, at the turbo and if so, what should the maximum be?

Why only 10 psi? if you have the fuel why not higher? Is the 22:1 compression the only limiting factor? We run stupid boost on our stock Turbo Dodge motors, cast pistons and they survive with the right tune.

Should I put an IC on it? I plan on basically running 3 inch from the turbo, which will be mounted aprox halfway back, so that gives me 5-6 ft of pipe, and either coil it or route it around a bit then straight up the back of the engine trans to the intake.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Biggest limiting factor in boost is the headgaskets. Also your not worried about temps at the turbo your worried about them in the cyl so the closer the better. I'd watch your egt to decide if you need an IC. Do you tow with it?

 

[turbovanman]

Biggest limiting factor in boost is the headgaskets. Also your not worried about temps at the turbo your worried about them in the cyl so the closer the better. I'd watch your egt to decide if you need an IC. Do you tow with it?

Yep, that's the whole reason for turbocharging it, I have a 7x12 enclosed dual axle trailer for my race bike and gear etc, will be adding beds etc for my kids and me to sleep in.


Ok, thanks, good info.

 

[davo727]

OK post some pics when you get something going.
Im thinking new head gaskets and arp head studs would be good insurance. If egt gets to 1200 your probably starting to melt piston tops. Thermocouple in one of the manifold-header outlets is best.

My 86 K30 6.2 needs a turbo but that will be later, have hands full now with frame work, flatbed and 4 speed swap.

 

[turbovanman]

OK post some pics when you get something going.
Im thinking new head gaskets and arp head studs would be good insurance. If egt gets to 1200 your probably starting to melt piston tops. Thermocouple in one of the manifold-header outlets is best.

My 86 K30 6.2 needs a turbo but that will be later, have hands full now with frame work, flatbed and 4 speed swap.

I might do the ARP thing down the road but for now, I'll just take it easy. I can drop the engine out the bottom, and do the head gaskets that way, :thumbsup:

He's some starter pics-turbo will go right after the collector and I'll move the muffler rearward some more.

 

[davo727]

That looks really clean under there for an up north vehicle. Whats the barbell looking thing hanging off the back of the transmission?

 

[turbovanman]

That looks really clean under there for an up north vehicle. Whats the barbell looking thing hanging off the back of the transmission?

Funny thing is, this thing originally came from Alberta!!!!!!

That barbell thing is a weight GM used to try to cancel vibrations.

 

[davo727]

Well you have enough room under there for 20 turbos, do you have room for the air inlet tube from wherever you put the air cleaner and the compressor output tube to get back up to the intake manifold?

 

[turbovanman]

Well you have enough room under there for 20 turbos, do you have room for the air inlet tube from wherever you put the air cleaner and the compressor output tube to get back up to the intake manifold?

The piping for the intake is going straight forward and up the back to the intake, so much room its scary, :thumbsup:

I am just going to put a filter on the turbo for now and try that, if that becomes an issue, then I'll fab up some remote air cleaner setup.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Wouldn't the air filter get wet there?

 

[SmithvilleD]

There's a guy that fab'd & ran a remote mounted HX-35 on his 6.5 powered Camaro. It's fairly well documented on another 6.5 forum. He may have some insight on what the IAT numbers were for that setup.

 

[turbovanman]

Wouldn't the air filter get wet there?

Nah, I've seen other setups run it there, IE Camaro's run it at the back. Its high off the ground so unless I submerge it, not enough water to damage it will be able to reach it.

There's a guy that fab'd & ran a remote mounted HX-35 on his 6.5 powered Camaro. It's fairly well documented on another 6.5 forum. He may have some insight on what the IAT numbers were for that setup.

Yeah, I've seen it, guess I should go back thru his build, :thumbsup:

 

[Acesneights1]

Over 10 psi boost on a stock 6.2 is asking for problems. IN fact Peninsular diesel told me 7-8 is really all a stock 6.2 should see. The Cummins is a totally different animal plus those guys o ring the blocks and run fire rings.

 

[6.2 turbo]

That should flow better than the truck manifold set up, nice headers too.

 

[davo727]

Those are H1 military humvee headers.

Van man: What are you going to use for a scavenge sump and pump for the turbo oil return?

 

[Rafedial1]

turbovanman, you current setup looks great and should perform well.

good choice on that flowmaster merge!

so its (2) 2.5" pipes going to one 3"?
how far from the manifolds will the turbo be?
I suggest using header wrap and wrap every square inch of the pipes. it will keep all the heat in and drastically improve spool time.

air filter. location is critical. get a K&N brand outerwear (common on atvs), and fabircate a shield or "box" to house the filter.
returning oil-I have a Mocal oil return pump that would be perfect for your setup. I'm not using it, so I could give ya a deal on it. lmk.
^the oil hose drainage is critical, you want at least 1/2 rubber hose to scavenge pump. otherwise you can have oil backup and if pressure builds in the center cartrige it will push out the oil seals in your turbo, not good.

also VERY critical, in the turbo oil pressure hose, you must use a "residual pressure" check valve. This valve ONLY opens when it sees above 2 psi of oil pressure. this prevents the oil from draining into turbo after car is shut off and cause smoke out your tailpipe. I have a part number for this from Mc-master Carr if you would like. my turbo oil pressure line was 1/4 rubber oil rated hose, but I suggest maybe one size smaller if you can find it(search AN hose sizes).

your cold side (to engine) should be 2.5"
IC is not required for remote mounted turbos, when running 12 psi. I had an intercooler on my remote setup though. your choice there.

I prob forgot some chit.

 

[turbovanman]

That should flow better than the truck manifold set up, nice headers too.

Thanks, Hummer headers, right side no modding needed, left side I had to reclock the outlet.

Those are H1 military humvee headers.

Van man: What are you going to use for a scavenge sump and pump for the turbo oil return?

I can't remember the brand as I bought it like 2 years ago.

turbovanman, you current setup looks great and should perform well.

good choice on that flowmaster merge!

so its (2) 2.5" pipes going to one 3"?
how far from the manifolds will the turbo be?
I suggest using header wrap and wrap every square inch of the pipes. it will keep all the heat in and drastically improve spool time.

air filter. location is critical. get a K&N brand outerwear (common on atvs), and fabircate a shield or "box" to house the filter.
returning oil-I have a Mocal oil return pump that would be perfect for your setup. I'm not using it, so I could give ya a deal on it. lmk.
^the oil hose drainage is critical, you want at least 1/2 rubber hose to scavenge pump. otherwise you can have oil backup and if pressure builds in the center cartrige it will push out the oil seals in your turbo, not good.

also VERY critical, in the turbo oil pressure hose, you must use a "residual pressure" check valve. This valve ONLY opens when it sees above 2 psi of oil pressure. this prevents the oil from draining into turbo after car is shut off and cause smoke out your tailpipe. I have a part number for this from Mc-master Carr if you would like. my turbo oil pressure line was 1/4 rubber oil rated hose, but I suggest maybe one size smaller if you can find it(search AN hose sizes).

your cold side (to engine) should be 2.5"
IC is not required for remote mounted turbos, when running 12 psi. I had an intercooler on my remote setup though. your choice there.

I prob forgot some chit.

Thanks, great info, :thumbsup:

Turbo is going right at the merge point, IE after the collector.

I won't wrap my headers due to the rapid rusting that will happen. I wrapped my DP on my turbo van and it was half gone after a year, :mad2:

Using a remote pump but forget the name.

I will be going 3" to the intake, making my own hat, I will just weld a 3" piece of pipe on a peace of flat metal and use a 90 deg silicone hose or should I use the Pennisular piece?

That part number would be great, thanks.

 

[Rafedial1]

Thanks, Hummer headers, right side no modding needed, left side I had to reclock the outlet.



I can't remember the brand as I bought it like 2 years ago.




Thanks, great info, :thumbsup:

Turbo is going right at the merge point, IE after the collector.

I won't wrap my headers due to the rapid rusting that will happen. I wrapped my DP on my turbo van and it was half gone after a year, :mad2:

Using a remote pump but forget the name.

I will be going 3" to the intake, making my own hat, I will just weld a 3" piece of pipe on a peace of flat metal and use a 90 deg silicone hose or should I use the Pennisular piece?

That part number would be great, thanks.

^residual pressure check valve (opens at 1 psi, 1/4" NPT) 7768K52

-keeping the turbo that close will really keep the extra turbo lag to a minimum. good choice.

find out what brand the scavenge pump is. If it's shur-flo, get rid of it, they are not rated for 180+deg oil temps. those who did use them, had them fail after 6 months to a year.

the trick for wrapping exhaust, is soak the wrap in warm water, then wrap as tightly as possible. when it dries it tightens up alot and should last much longer. Also, at each end, where you started/ended the wrap, use some hose clamps to prevent unraveling. I stricly use DEI products as they are located about 10 miles from my house (made in U.S.A.). I have also heard their titanium header wrap work even better than their standard wrap. wrapping pipes should not cause it to rust, at all.

your intake hat idea, 3 inch pipe (stood vertical) on a true flat piece of steel should work well, no need to shell out $65 for the Peninsular unit.
^might need to relocate your MAP and IAT sensors if your truck is electronic injection.

 

[davo727]

Do you all have an oil scavenge pump picked out?

 

[turbovanman]

I do, gotta go find it.

So far, nothing yet, haven't had chance to do it yet, just working out some advance mechanism bugs and need a couple of days to do it without being bugged, :mad2: