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opinions on steering parts

Brooklyn Tow said:
There's a Gun in that pic?
Click to expand...

haha - I didn't see the gun either. I actually scroll thru these threads rather quickly - especially with the women pictures because of the place that I work.

Anyhow - getting back on topic, HAHA, I'm not going to worry about the 1/8" of play on the wheels - I'm kind of thinking it might be ball joints anyways. I pulled my skid plate off for the first time - and it appeared that all the greasable fittings were shot/empty. I filled what I could but the tierod ball joints leaked out onto the inside of the wheel, and the lower ball joint, driver's side was split open and appeared to be completely empty. So, I'm thinking that I if I replace the tie-rods, upper & lower ball joints, that would be a good start - but since i'll need a realignment anyways, I'm thinking I should go ahead and get new pitman arms (since someone had mentioned they are known to get slop) and just replace everything but the wheel bearings. I'm running 265-75's so I shouldn't be putting too much wear in that form on them.

I assume that if I get a ball joint tool from harbor freight, and freeze my new ball joints and have a big hammer to remove the old ones, that it shouldn't be too difficult...right? (at least compared to a dodge solid axle)...or is IFS more difficult?
 
treegump said:
haha - I didn't see the gun either. I actually scroll thru these threads rather quickly - especially with the women pictures because of the place that I work.

Anyhow - getting back on topic, HAHA, I'm not going to worry about the 1/8" of play on the wheels - I'm kind of thinking it might be ball joints anyways. I pulled my skid plate off for the first time - and it appeared that all the greasable fittings were shot/empty. I filled what I could but the tierod ball joints leaked out onto the inside of the wheel, and the lower ball joint, driver's side was split open and appeared to be completely empty. So, I'm thinking that I if I replace the tie-rods, upper & lower ball joints, that would be a good start - but since i'll need a realignment anyways, I'm thinking I should go ahead and get new pitman arms (since someone had mentioned they are known to get slop) and just replace everything but the wheel bearings. I'm running 265-75's so I shouldn't be putting too much wear in that form on them.

I assume that if I get a ball joint tool from harbor freight, and freeze my new ball joints and have a big hammer to remove the old ones, that it shouldn't be too difficult...right? (at least compared to a dodge solid axle)...or is IFS more difficult?
Click to expand...

Everythign on that list is fairly easy to do BUT that pitman arm. However, its almost impossible to test your pitman arm with the rest junk.


Good time to replace your steering stabalizer shock, or add one if you don't have one. It makes a world of difference.
I would count threads, and buy new inner/outer tierods and NEW SLEEVES to make life easy. Compare them side by side, measure best you can. Then replace those and the ball joints. After reassembly then you can really get a good feel on your Idler/Pitman conditions.



Take it from there.

With the crappy parts out there lately, often times you're better off with your current stuff then trying to do the right thing and replacing thigs ahead of time, is what I'm learning.
 
when i replaced the tierods on the dodge i just measured the front side and rear side of the wheel. (or you know - as close as I could get). I noticed what appeared to be a "helper pitman arm" - I really need to find my chilton's manual - but I thought that was pretty convenient- extra support I suppose? Neither pitman arms had a grease nipple.
 
treegump said:
when i replaced the tierods on the dodge i just measured the front side and rear side of the wheel. (or you know - as close as I could get). I noticed what appeared to be a "helper pitman arm" - I really need to find my chilton's manual - but I thought that was pretty convenient- extra support I suppose? Neither pitman arms had a grease nipple.
Click to expand...

Thats the idler arm. Attaches to the frame and to the tierods.
 
I have to wait till Saturday to get to a NAPA parts store due to the hours I work and the drive that I have - does anyone have a Bumper to Bumper store and are those parts alright? Are their any other suggestions? Is Carquest comparable to NAPA premium? Or just order online somewheres?
 
treegump said:
I have to wait till Saturday to get to a NAPA parts store due to the hours I work and the drive that I have - does anyone have a Bumper to Bumper store and are those parts alright? Are their any other suggestions? Is Carquest comparable to NAPA premium? Or just order online somewheres?
Click to expand...

Try rockauto.com Very very good prices. This code here saves 5% too. PUt it where they say where did you here us from spot.

21627971806521

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1053425

Code curtesy of member 94K30 here. Saved me 15 bux yesterday.
 
So...i've decided i'm going with napa premium parts - $49/each for upper ball joints, $55/each for Lower ball joints, and inner tie rods are $24/each and outer are $58/each.

They did ask me if I had welded or forged arms??? as far as the lower ball joints go. How do I find this out?

Also, the chiltons repair manual keeps referring to a tool "J-36202" to increase tension on the adjusting arm when replacing the ball joints. What does this tool look like and what do I need to do instead of going out and buying a fancy/expensive tool?

(Just thought of something - since i'm replacing the tierods anyways - i could just remove those, replace the ball joints, and then reinstall the tierods...right? then i wouldn't have to worry about this fancy, smancy tool))
 
treegump said:
So...i've decided i'm going with napa premium parts - $49/each for upper ball joints, $55/each for Lower ball joints, and inner tie rods are $24/each and outer are $58/each.

They did ask me if I had welded or forged arms??? as far as the lower ball joints go. How do I find this out?

Also, the chiltons repair manual keeps referring to a tool "J-36202" to increase tension on the adjusting arm when replacing the ball joints. What does this tool look like and what do I need to do instead of going out and buying a fancy/expensive tool?

(Just thought of something - since i'm replacing the tierods anyways - i could just remove those, replace the ball joints, and then reinstall the tierods...right? then i wouldn't have to worry about this fancy, smancy tool))
Click to expand...

I bought the tie-rod sleeves when I did mine, just makes life easier for a few bux to not have to undo that crap, plus you have the exact setup so you can count threads and measure side by side for almost perfect line up. Cheap.

I think they made the cast / stamped A-Arm change 96-97 I see it alot on my truck options too.

BTW, before the rockauto 5% discount, you could get AC_Delco balljoints for alot cheaper than napa. Wont have them for this weekend, but they ship lightning fast, usually 2-3 days to me.

Check out the link for balljoints.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1053425,parttype,10070

As for the Tie-rod's you could get Delco Tie-rods, for 20 dollars LESS than napa premium, or moog for even cheaper. Don't forget the 5% code too. Super cheap. Big savings. Tell napa to nevermind.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1053425,parttype,7428
 
Be careful counting threads on tierods. The replacements may not be the same overall length as the old ones. I don't recall which direction but my new ones were either 1/4" longer or 1/4" shorter than the old tie rod ends. If I had relied strictly on thread count I would have been way off on the toe in.
 
Matt Bachand said:
I bought the tie-rod sleeves when I did mine, just makes life easier for a few bux to not have to undo that crap, plus you have the exact setup so you can count threads and measure side by side for almost perfect line up. Cheap.

I think they made the cast / stamped A-Arm change 96-97 I see it alot on my truck options too.

BTW, before the rockauto 5% discount, you could get AC_Delco balljoints for alot cheaper than napa. Wont have them for this weekend, but they ship lightning fast, usually 2-3 days to me.

Check out the link for balljoints.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1053425,parttype,10070

As for the Tie-rod's you could get Delco Tie-rods, for 20 dollars LESS than napa premium, or moog for even cheaper. Don't forget the 5% code too. Super cheap. Big savings. Tell napa to nevermind.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1053425,parttype,7428
Click to expand...


I have to agree with Matt on this one. When I get new suspension parts, they will be Moog when possible.
 
Okay - How do I find if I have welded or forged arms??? as far as the lower ball joints go.

AND

Also, the chiltons repair manual keeps referring to a tool "J-36202" to increase tension on the adjusting arm when replacing the ball joints. What does this tool look like and what do I need to do instead of going out and buying a fancy/expensive tool?
 
packratt said:
Be careful counting threads on tierods. The replacements may not be the same overall length as the old ones. I don't recall which direction but my new ones were either 1/4" longer or 1/4" shorter than the old tie rod ends. If I had relied strictly on thread count I would have been way off on the toe in.
Click to expand...

Which is why I always buy inner, outer, and a new sleeve. Being in the rust belt its just easier anyhow, but then you can lay them down side by side and take your time and measure. And since both ends have to facedown, you are forced to be pretty damn close.

Alignment is always recommended, ... So are a lot of things.........
 
Well, because it was local and I don't think I've ever had any bad experiences with NAPA, I went ahead and purchased my tierods, ball joints, and steering stabilizer from them. Yes, it was pricey, but I feel it was worth it. I started taking the passenger side apart at 10am and still wasn't finished taking it apart when my buddy Chuck (who I'm still trying to get on this board) stopped by to help around 5pm (mainly because I left a message requesting/praying for help). When he stopped by at 5, I was on my last ball joint - the lower one and with the help of a sledge and ball joint remover we got 'er out. I forgot to follow my own advice and freeze the ball joints, so my passenger side lower ball joint didn't seat all the way at the time of setting it - but we got it close enough to get to the grease fitting. (We heated, hit it, and pressed it - trying to get it in...we stopped trying). Got the upper one in and started working on putting the shock on, the tierods on and the axle shaft when my buddy who already got the driver's side apart (in like 20 min!! :( ) told me my driver's side wheel bearing was bad. We called around and autozone had one for $213. So I took his chipped powerstroke (6 sp) into town (freakin awesome!!) and came back 40 min later to find the passenger side completely tightened up - ready for grease and the tire, and the other side completely taken apart. I start putting the driver's side back together when Chuck finds out the "new" wheel bearing was worse than the old one. We take that back and find out that since all the stores are closed (its 9:30 and autozone doesn't have any more) we wait till sunday and pick up a new one. The frozen lower ball joint presses right in that night and put the rest back together Sunday morning.

So - in summary - I suck and Chuck rocks. He said things just came right out where as I was beating and hammering and breaking stuff.

On Wednesday my truck went in to get the alignment and a new pitman arm. I got the bill for $391.58. 78 bucks for the alignment, 99 bucks for the pitman arm and 220 bucks for the labor. The mechanic broke a puller trying to get the pitman arm, so I suppose whatever.

Sorry for the spiel - but I was really frustrated that it took me that long to do all that crap and it took him no time at all. He of course has more experience with taking vehicles apart and putting them together.
 
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