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FTB ?

P

preachermic

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Bostic, NC
What fitting is used for the top of the IP. I had an old IP so I have already enlarged the holes under the filter screen inlet. I can't seem to find a fitting that is larger. What am I looking for. BTW I plan to use the Walbro FRB5-1 to complete the project. Thanks for any help!
 
I used an Earl's Plumbing #985064 AN PORT ADAPTER -6 TO 7/16-20 I had in my leftover AN fittings collection. Posting the description mostly so you've have the 7/16" - 20 size/thread pitch details.

Finding a steel fitting like the others have done might be best. After drilling out my aluminum fitting, I was rather cautious tightening the 180 degree hose end onto the fitting. A steel fitting would be stronger.
 
SmithvilleD said:
I used an Earl's Plumbing #985064 AN PORT ADAPTER -6 TO 7/16-20 I had in my leftover AN fittings collection. Posting the description mostly so you've have the 7/16" - 20 size/thread pitch details.

Finding a steel fitting like the others have done might be best. After drilling out my aluminum fitting, I was rather cautious tightening the 180 degree hose end onto the fitting. A steel fitting would be stronger.
Click to expand...

I was even afraid to use a 160-degree aluminum fitting to connect the fuel line. I couldn't find a steel one, and got tired of the truck being down, so I didn't do FTB. :sad: ...just replace the fuel lines. I've since had the intake off 3 times trying to get the rocker cover leak fixed, so yanking it one more time for FTB if I ever get a flashed ECM will be easy peasy.
 
Unless the lines put significant force on the hose end, I wouldn't worry about it failing. My concern was twisting too hard on a fitting I'd removed some material from drilling it out. Realistically, that fitting is O-ring sealed to the pump so it shouldn't have to be super tight to seal a max 10-15 psi.
 
rocker cover leak

On the valve cover leak, have you checked to see if the sealing surface is relatively flat across the bolt holes? Pretty common to see them deformed from getting tightened trying to stop a leak - then they get bent in to where that area of the cover rested on the head surface before it's put much clamp on the rest of the sealing surfaces.
 
Take the valve cover gasket and toss it. Get yourself a can of the RightStuff gasket maker, looks like cheese whiz can. Clean everything up good apply that stuff and you won't have another leak. You will need a hammer next time you have to get the valve covers off.
 
preachermic said:
SmithvilleD, is the 7/16 - 20 what the thread size is going into the IP fitting?
Click to expand...

Yes, I copied the description of the fitting I used directly from the catalog & that portion is the side of the fitting that screws into the IP.

If you're not familiar with the -06, it's AN (Army/Navy) sizing, which amounts to the plumbing's inside diameter. The AN numbers are over a denominator of 16. So -06/16 = 3/8", -10 = 5/8", etc.

x2 on the RightStuff gasket maker recommendation. In addition to being an excellent sealant, the pressurized can makes it easy to run a consistent sized bead.
 
packratt said:
Take the valve cover gasket and toss it. Get yourself a can of the RightStuff gasket maker, looks like cheese whiz can. Clean everything up good apply that stuff and you won't have another leak. You will need a hammer next time you have to get the valve covers off.
Click to expand...

No gaskets. When I put the cover on in the garage in February, I simply put Great Stuff on the valve cover along the outside edge. I didn't put it on wide enough, and there was a small area that didn't seal. It was 20-something degrees and the stuff would hardly come outta the can.

The second time I put the Great Stuff on with the engine in the truck. I put the Great Stuff on the valve cover in about a half-inch wide pattern. I got it all bolted down, and then noticed a big blob of it on the front fuel return line. I thought, well, there was a lot on there, so it'll seal. NOT.

This last time, I practiced putting the cover on and off several times until I had just the right approach. I put Great Stuff in a wide bead on the valve cover, and then I put it on the top of the head. ...sorta like wearing a belt and suspenders. Then I bolted it down. So far so good.

Great Stuff is great stuff! It took me 2 hours to clean it off the head and valve cover this time. I spent $45 on Great Stuff for one valve cover. That stuff ain't cheap, but I knew I didn't want to mess with the silly cork valve cover gaskets that came in the rebuild kit.

...interesting note of no importance whatsoever. Great Stuff smells like coal tar when wet, and a little like chocolate when dry, but only a week old. ...and you cannot wash it outta the cracks in your hands or the quicks of your nails. It scrapes off my arms pretty good, but stays on my hands for over a week.
 
Finished the FTB mod today. Truck seems to -pull longer and harder. Will not know until I hook up the fiver. Thanks for all the help! BTW- used HO lift pump rated for 10-14psi. Peace and Blessings - Mike
 
The aluminum fitting is more than adequete. They use them on race cars that have excess heat, vibration etc. Careful with using monkey snot on the valve covers or anything else for that matter. It works but just watch where the excess goes . I'm my years I have dropped more than one oil pan due to lost oil pressure only to find the screen clogged with snotballs.
 
The reason for mentioning caution on this specific adaptor fitting in Al was that it needs to be drilled out some to continue the FTB 3/8" ID upsized plumbing from the filter mgr to the IP.
 
I realize now the 5/32 holes are supposed to be in the IP from THIS POST

Although dont see it covered elesewhere really.

I'm gearing up to do FTB, ordered FRB5 last weekend but didnt get here yet.

Is there supposed to be a check valve on our fuel lines between the LP and the filter manager? I dont have one and I seen some for $75, are there some cheap ones?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's that last fitting going into the inj pump that adapts from the pump to -06 that isn't -06, 3/8" ID.

I haven't seen a drawing of the FRB-5 internals, but I expect it's like other solenoid type pumps. Essentially a spring pushing the diaphragm one direction & when the solenoid/electromagnet cycles on, it overcomes the spring pulling the diaphragm the other direction.

Then check valve(s) only let the fluid pass the one direction. So there already is at least one internal checkvalve - maybe 2?

The Walbro website shows an optional outlet fitting that incorporates a checkvalve & the spec says it increases the total number of inches it can lift/push fuel. So I'm guessing adding this fitting lessens how much fuel can leak back btwn pump strokes.

My Walbro lets pressure bleed down after shutoff in 5-10 seconds where the stock type pump would often still show pressure a few days later. Don't know that this really causes any problem as it starts fine w/ no symptoms of any air getting into the fuel system.

I've held off getting the optional outlet fitting checkvalve because their listing says it's 5/16", instead of my current 3/8" fittings.
 
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