Advise on passenger side door window

[Dan Hunter]

I had the windows down and the keys in the ignition at the ranch (so I don't lose them or lock them in) and my wife slammed the door as usual. No trapped air; shattered window. Her penance occurred on the ride home...at night...32 degrees...one hour.

How hard are these to replace?

 

[mattthebrat]

There not too bad, I can do one in about 45 minutes, including R/I on the door panel.

Pull the door panel off
Reinstall the window switch(you'll need this later)
Your track should just slide right out since there is no glass anymore. There may be tabs on the end of the track that keep the rollers from sliding them out.
Position the new window in the slides (it helps to have someone to hold it for you)
Run the window motor so that that the rollers are positioned where they would be if the window was about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down.
Slide the window track over the rollers (IIRC the back has to go in first)
Then reinstall everything

I think that is everything.

 

[davo727]

After you get the interior panel off then pull the metal inner panel screws out so you can pull it out far enough to get the old window mount out and slide the new one in and get the rollers back in where they need to go.

 

[Dan Hunter]

I got the panel off without trashing everything and rotated bolts around on the inner metal panel to get the vacuum everywhere. I was working at night with a flashlight which seemed to make it easier to find all the glass inside the door. Getting the remaining parts of the old window out was easy enough.

I ordered my glass from cardoorglass.com for 77 bucks including 18 for shipping. It should arrive Thursday though I'm a little anxious. Fedex in Enid is manned by cavemen. They tossed my pizza stone over my entry gate. You know what happened.

So when I install the new window, Davo727, you're saying I insert the new window between the inner and outer metal panels. I'm assuming I need to run the window scissor actuator down and then fit it on the rollers but what about getting it in the front and back felt tracks? Anything resembling a checklist would be very helpful.

 

[mattthebrat]

After you get the interior panel off then pull the metal inner panel screws out so you can pull it out far enough to get the old window mount out and slide the new one in and get the rollers back in where they need to go.

Ah, forgot about that!

So when I install the new window, Davo727, you're saying I insert the new window between the inner and outer metal panels. I'm assuming I need to run the window scissor actuator down and then fit it on the rollers but what about getting it in the front and back felt tracks? Anything resembling a checklist would be very helpful.

There are two bolts that hold the front felt track, I believe one of them is shared with that metal panel. if you remove them then the front track will move freely, so that you can slide the window up in there. It is easiest to remove that whole inner metal panel, there are clips that hold the lock rods on, they just slide off then you can pop the rods out.

 

[Dan Hunter]

For us dummies, full instructions of what I did...or should have

To remove the door panel, start by getting your fingers behind the window/lock control panel and pull. It’s only attached by clips. Let it hang by the wiring harness; you don’t need to disconnect the switches. There are two screws (one in the finger hole for the handle and one just forward of the handle) and 10 push fasteners that hold the door panel in place. After removing the screws, pull the panel free starting from the bottom and working up on both sides. This will protect the two metal clips that hold the fiber based panel to the door at the sill and keeps it from flopping around. You need 10 new push fasteners that sell for a phenomenal 13 bucks per 10 pack. Remove the clear plastic liner. This part will annoy you a little. Run the window to what looks about 3/4 of the way down in preparation for installation. If it hangs up on glass shards, stop and address prior to installation and after you’ve cleaned up the glass shards.

Start removing the inner panel that the motor is attached to by unscrewing all but two of the bottom sheet metal screws. There will be one bolt near the hinge that holds the panel AND the bottom portion of the front track – remove both this bolt and the one above it. Let the track hang from it’s upper attachment whatever it is. Though it won’t likely move by itself, resist any urge to move it around as you’ll just have to line it back up on the re-install of the window.

Leaning the inner metal panel outward, you can now access the two clips on the rods and the additional push pin that attaches the door lockworks to the inner handle. Though you’ll still have the wiring harness connected, the panel should largely come free from the door after you remove the remaining sheet metal screws. This is also where you can easily remove the remaining broken glass assembly. Thoroughly inspect the hinges and tracks of the inner metal panel and remove the glass bits. Consider using a spray solvent on the single track that is greased and likely collect glass shards that won’t vacuum off and then relube. Run a screw driver down the felt tracks in the door then carefully run your finger along the groove to ensure there is no remaining glass in the felt track.

Vacuum thoroughly. There are supports to keep the outer door panel from buckling easily that will collect glass. I vacuumed at night using a flashlight to spot all the shards.

Time to install the glass. I used duct tape on the both sides of the window sill in case the window banged on it during installation. This is where you move the window track to 3/4 down if you haven’t already. With the metal panel out of the way, install the window from below moving up. Once glass is in the door panel, rest it on the rubber bump stop on the bottom of the door. This is where you call for help; get someone to stabilize the window holding it from the top. Move the inner metal panel in position and work the rollers onto the track that came attached to the window getting the back roller in the first using the room provided when you loosened the front track. Push the window firmly into the rear felt window track and then press the front track in place. Verify that the attachment threading on the front track bracket aligns with the proper top hole (that should have a wear ring in the paint to identify it). Re-install the two clips and the additional push pin that attaches the door lockworks to the inner handle and push the rods back into their white plastic guides.

Re-install the remaining panel sheet metal screws and the lower bolt on the front window track. If you didn’t savage the clear plastic sheet, re-attach it. Re-attach the door panel with fresh push fasteners by first fitting the window/lock control panel through the hole in the door panel then hanging the door panel by the two metal clips on the window sill and then work the push fasteners in from the top down. Re-install the two remaining screws that hold the door handle in place and push the window/lock control panel clips back in place.

Attached are photos of the bare inner metal door panel, the window/lock control panel, and the window rollers along with the bump stop just below the front(left) roller.