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Thread: Installing A Electrical Kit In A 4L80E

  1. #1
    6.5 nut job/addict
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    Thumbs up Installing A Electrical Kit In A 4L80E

    I bought the electrical kit mentioned and pictured in this thread:
    http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?29077-Electrical-kits-for-4L80E-s
    I finally got to putting it in today
    The kit is going in a 94 k3500 srw. This truck was throwing a 1-2 shift solenoid code. It wouldn't shift out of low gear. I figured as long as I had to go in there I would replace everything electrical since the truck is 17 years old and it has 150,000 miles on it.
    I had removed the front driveshaft when I was testing the wiring to the tranny.I unplugged the main connector then dropped the pan and filter. I got a bit of a surprise when I looked in the bottom of the pan Dark sludge in the bottom. Very little metalic look to it.

    IMG_2157_4.JPG IMG_2158_5.jpg




    IMG_2159_6.jpg IMG_2160_7.JPG

    The first thing after the pan and filter was removing the electrical connector from the tranny case. There is 4 hooks that need to be pushed down while holding pressure on the inside part of the connector.

    IMG_2161_8.JPG

    Next was the pressure regulator[force motor][drivers's side front of trans]. It is held in with 1- T25 head screw. A little prying with a slotted screwdriver popped it out.

    IMG_2165_12.JPG IMG_2166_13.JPG

    Next is the TCC[torque converter clutch] solenoid It is held in by a retaining clip in a slot of the valve body. A small slotted screwdriver in the slot will pry the retainer out.

    IMG_2167_14.JPG IMG_2168_15.jpg

    I started plugging the new internal wiring harness on as the new component is installed. All the connectors are different so they can't be plugged in the wrong place
    Next was the pressure switch. It's held on to the valve body with 8mm head bolts. As each component is removed tranny fluid comes out so the drain pan has to stay under while all the work is being done.

    IMG_2169_16.jpg IMG_2170_17.JPG


    IMG_2171_18.jpg

    The shift solenoids were next. They are not the same and will only work in the correct spot[dummy proof] Each one is held in with one t25 head screw

    IMG_2172_19.JPG IMG_2173_20.JPG


    IMG_2174_21.JPG


    Next i put the wiring harness in the retaining clip to hold it in place then smeared some atf on the o-ring of the main connector and slid it in the tranny case.
    Installed new filter seal and filter. Pan back on and fill with fluid.

    IMG_2175_22.jpg IMG_2176_23.JPG


    IMG_2177_24.JPG IMG_2178_25.JPG


    I had to clean the truck end of the main connector because the old tranny connector leaked atf into it. 3 or 4 rinses with wd40 and blow out with air hose got rid of the red atf bleeding out of the connector.

    Tools used: large medium and small slotted screwdrivers[to pry solenoids and main connector out],channelock pliers to pull the tcc solenoid out, 1/4" ratchet with T25 bit for solenoid hold dwn screws, 1/4" wobble extension and 10 mm socket for pan bolts, 8mm socket for pressure switch bolts, ball peen hammer to drive new filter seal in. I used a 3/8" ratchet and extension w/10mm socket for all but the rear pan bolts, a trouble light to see and lots of lint free shop towels.
    Barry



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  2. #2
    Registered User ak diesel driver's Avatar
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    did it help?
    96 gmc k2500 4" exhaust, marine inj, #9 resistor, GL4, turbomaster, duraterms,-1.94 TDCO,FTB, remote pmd, isspro pillar gauges, lift pump relay added ,141 block, 2 1000 w block heaters, 2 150w glue on oilpan heaters, 2 150w glue on transpan heaters, 97 K47 air filter , IP replaced at 229k ,gear drive set awaiting install, Parts for intercooler waiting to be installed

    94 k1500 excab sb 6.5 plow truck. Fisher plow w/engine driven pump, F intake, h/m turbomaster, plowing chip by Buddy, remote PMD w#9 resistor, Duraterms

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ak diesel driver View Post
    did it help?
    I don't know yet. It's up on the stands yet and is getting new oil cooler lines before it comes down. i'm optimistic that it will work[fingers crossed] With the sludge in the pan, I'm thinking of disconnecting the tranny cooler and pumping the dirty fluid out of the converter before driving. The fluid had been changed at least once because it didn't have the reuseable GM gasket on it. The truck had sat unused for 5 or 6 years before I bought it.
    Barry



    I am not on the Heath Bandwagon

  4. #4
    Lieutenant JiFaire's Avatar
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    Nice job, Barry... thanks for sharing and taking pics!

    Jim
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    1994 Silverado SLT c2500, 3.73 gears, "F" engine, 300 000 km, Snorkle-ectomy and Airbox mod, TCC mod, Mandrel-bent DP and crossover, 3" Duramax resonator, 4" constant-radius out the back.

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  5. #5
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    Looks normal for the silver dark colored stuff on the bottom of the pan. Least my transmission looked like then when I did a 25K fluid change.
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

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  6. #6
    LeroyDiesel.com Burning oil's Avatar
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    My 2 cents:
    On the back of the main bulkhead connector If reusing it. Clean it real good with brake cleaner the apply a good coating of black RTV. I do it on new connectors also. Its very common for the pins to seep ATF otherwise.
    Leroy.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burning oil View Post
    My 2 cents:
    On the back of the main bulkhead connector If reusing it. Clean it real good with brake cleaner the apply a good coating of black RTV. I do it on new connectors also. Its very common for the pins to seep ATF otherwise.
    This is all new. I did think about using something extra to seal the wires but didn't. The old main connector was weeping badly. Most i've seen weep or leak.
    I started it up today with the top cooler line connected to a drain pan. I pumped about a gallon of fluid out of it untill it came out light pink. The old fluid was dark red.
    It does go forward and reverse Not shure yet about the rest of the shifting.
    Barry



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  8. #8
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    Thank you Barry.

    Great pics. This will be very helpful for me since I need to do something about my TC control.

    Leroy-- are you talking about the connector end that is inside the tranny?

    Don
    1983 Chev 1/2 ton 6.2 N/A, mileage unknown but obviously high, my "training wheels" for diesel, planned use was to make a trailer and possible heart transplant for my 1971 FJ40 Landcruiser

    1994 Chev K2500 4X4 6.5TD, extra cab, long bed, Turbomaster and snorkle removal by P.O. to my P.O., PMD relocated, LP relay mod and at same time added push button for fuel filter priming, 2.5" crossover, Diamond Eye 3" downpipe and 4" exhaust, all on headlights mod, boost fooler, gauges (EGT, boost, fuel pressure, H2O temp, tranny temp), homegrown version of Feed The Beast, TCC lockup mod, 9 blade DMax fan, HO balanced flow water pump, Heath's low temp fan clutch

  9. #9
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    Leroy's talking about sealing the inside, side of the big gray connector with the green o-ring. There is some type of seal to prevent oil from weeping into the outside of that connector. They almost always fail and fill the cavity between the truck and tranny connector. The tranny fluid can actually wick up the truck wiring harness inside the wire insulation.
    Barry



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  10. #10
    LeroyDiesel.com Burning oil's Avatar
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    Yep, on the inside where the wires go into the connector.
    Leroy.
    www.leroydiesel.com <<< CLICK
    We sell pmd extension cables and the FS PMD or the new Stanadyne PMD with available 7 year warranty.Turbo Boost Bolts and lots of 6.5 turbo diesel parts. Check out the web site.
    Be sure to update your signature with products you bought from me.
    1 ton, crew cab, 6.5 diesel w/DB2 4911 IP. srw.
    1994 2wd Suburban.
    I like it alot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH9t44iOiA4

  11. #11
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    Thanks Barry and Leroy. I thought that was where you meant, but I needed to be sure.

    Don
    1983 Chev 1/2 ton 6.2 N/A, mileage unknown but obviously high, my "training wheels" for diesel, planned use was to make a trailer and possible heart transplant for my 1971 FJ40 Landcruiser

    1994 Chev K2500 4X4 6.5TD, extra cab, long bed, Turbomaster and snorkle removal by P.O. to my P.O., PMD relocated, LP relay mod and at same time added push button for fuel filter priming, 2.5" crossover, Diamond Eye 3" downpipe and 4" exhaust, all on headlights mod, boost fooler, gauges (EGT, boost, fuel pressure, H2O temp, tranny temp), homegrown version of Feed The Beast, TCC lockup mod, 9 blade DMax fan, HO balanced flow water pump, Heath's low temp fan clutch

  12. #12

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    Any news on the shifting yet?
    1994 K2500 Suburban.....4L80E, 14 bolt rear with 3.73's, fresh rebuild 599 block with ARP studs, Military NA precups, PMD relocated to the skid plate, OPS relay mod, TCC mod, Boost and EGT gauges, GM-8 with a homemade turbo master, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust.

    New Bosch injectors, FTB 2.0, HO LP (12 psi 140 GPH), AC 60G glows, Manual glow plug override, HO water pump, severe duty fan clutch, 21" D-Max fan, Heath P-series chip, -10 oil cooler lines, and a S&B Intake.

    Everything else is stock for now.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief915 View Post
    Any news on the shifting yet?
    I hopefully will know later today. I just have to put new trailer wiring in yet before it comes down.
    Barry



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  14. #14
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    Still no shifting. Have to hook up scantech again and check all sensor outputs[mostly input and output speeds]
    On the bright side ,the electrical connector doesn't leak and the fluid and filter are changed.
    Barry



    I am not on the Heath Bandwagon

  15. #15
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    I finally got to figuring out why no shift today. It was throwing codes 81 and 83. I checked the wires from the tranny to the ecm and all were good
    Then checked the fuse that powers the transmission. The old solenoids must have blown it. New fuse and all is well. It works just like it is supposed to It is throwing another code but it doesn't effect the tranny at all.
    Barry



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