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Winterizing my 1999 260DA

Yaz

Big Brother
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This is the notes I took with a experienced tech at my Searay dealer.

Lots of the same exact things are done for other boats and models. Be sure to check with your manufacturer first to see if these steps are right for your application. I or Dieseltowingresource take no responsibility for a cracked block, out drive or other problems you have following this right or wrong!.. Good luck and save yourself a some hard earned cash doing this yourself.

PS I looked all over for the pictures I took to go with this but I can't find them. If they turn up or you have some PM me and I'll add them. Thanks! Yaz
 
Winterizing Steps for SEARAY 260 DA 5.7 EFI

Fuel Conditioning

Starting with about ¾ fuel add the recommended amount of 2+4 fuel conditioner. I figured 50 gallons of fuel was in my tank so we added one big and one small bottle 24 oz total. Note: This is very messy stuff looks like florescent yellow and will stain seats or even the side of the fiberglass hull if it drips down so be careful!

If possible take the boat out for a short trip and shake it up in the fuel tank. If you can’t, run the engine for 10 min making sure the fuel conditioner gets into the fuel injection system.

Gray Water Preparations

Put in some extra gray water disinfectant in the head and flush a couple of times.

Completely pump out the gray water.

Fresh Water Preparations

Drain the fresh water completely buy first turning off pump switch at the helm.

Unscrew the sprayer handle off the ****pit sink hose and wrought the hose over the side. Note: There is a small gasket between them, so do not loose it!

Turn on the pump switch at the helm.

Open the rear water spigot in the trunk compartment at the stern.

Wait until water runs out and shut off pump switch at the helm.

Reinstall sprayer handle on to the ****pit sink hose, Note: don’t forget to install the gasket that was there.

Remove the small gray C clips off of the water heater inlet and exit hoses. Note: One hose is red and one is blue.

Remove the hoses off the heater buy first pushing the inside plastic ring away from the water heater taking place of where the c clip was and then pulling the bare hose out of that cup link.

Open spigot and pressure relief valve and angle the hot and cold cup links down to let the water drain out of the water heater. Note: Water will run down into the bilge below the engine and will run out later in this process.

Remove one elbow cup link off ether side of the heater buy first removing the c clip and moving the ring back into it’s place.

Use that elbow to connect the red and blue water hoses together and lock with the C clips.

Put the unused C clip back on the cup link that is still on the heater so you will not loose it.

Remove Clip off of the pump hose next to the filter on top of the Water Heater and remove hose.

Unscrew filter and check to see if it is full of sediment, if so, replace it.

Attach a 2’ hose with an attachment that fits directly to the pump.

Place the end of hose into a bottle of the non-toxic anti freeze. Note: Constantly check Anti freeze bottle in bilge and replace any time it runs out during this process.

Turn back on the pump switch at the helm.

Turn on the rear spigot in the trunk compartment until a strait mix of anti freeze comes out and close the spigot tight.

Squeeze the ****pit sink water handle and drain into sink until a strait mix of anti freeze comes out and stop.

Pour non-toxic antifreeze from the jug into ****pit sink until a strait mix comes out the side of the boat.

Pull out wastebasket and look down at pump box.

Open the hot water handle on the head sink until a strait mix of antifreeze comes out and close.

Open the cold-water handle on the head sink until a strait mix of antifreeze comes out and you see strait anti freeze coming out into the pump box.

Open the hot water handle on the galley sink until a strait mix of antifreeze comes out and close.

Open the cold water handle on the galley sink until a strait mix of anti freeze comes out for as long as it takes for the pump box to cycle three times with strait anti freeze.

Press and hold down the foot lever on the head for about 25 sec. after you see a strait flow of antifreeze and then flush.

Shut off Vacuum-flush key in head.

Wipe all sinks and around head with paper towels to eliminate staining from antifreeze.

Reconnect water filter and water inlet hose to water pump.

Winterizing Engine (Fogging)

Move boat onto trailer but leave in water because the engine will be running much after these steps.

Unclip the plastic fuel filter cover and fuel return hose located on the front stern side of the engine.

Unscrew the fuel filter with an oil filter wrench and dump out the gas inside it into a clean container, not overboard.

Fill the gas filter about half way up with 2cycle oil (about 8 oz.) And top back off with the gas you just poured into a container.

Re-attach the fuel filter and tighten back up with the oil filter wrench.

With the return line still off place a rag on top of it.

Push in the disable drive button on the shifter and rock the shifter a little forward; just enough to keep the button from popping back out.

Turn the key and start the engine, then rock the throttle ford a few times until you see the engine smoking and wanting to quit.

Shut off the ignition.

Re-install the return fuel line and tighten.

Raise outdrive all the way up by pushing the trailer switch on the shifter.

Pull the boat out of the water onto the inclined ramp.

Attach the trailer light wiring harness.

Unscrew Transom pet**** and place in a zip lock bag.

Winterizing Engine (Draining Water)

Drain the engine buy removing 6 blue water pet****s. Note: be careful not to loose the tiny O-Ring gaskets that attached to each one.

2 on the bottom of the block between the freeze plugs.
1 on the elbow fitting attached to the water circulator hose.
2 one on each exhaust manifold
1 on the cool fuel line down under a brass cup link, located on the port side down next to engine.

Note: Place all the pet****s and O-Rings in the zip lock bag with the transom pet**** on top off the intake manifold.

Winterizing Water Circulating Pump

Get a bucket and attach a 4-foot garden hose to a hole at the bottom of it and insert some type of shut off valve in it.

Attach the hose to a set off muffs and place over the out drive water input holes.

Fill the bucket with about 2 gallons of antifreeze.

Have someone try to start engine and turn on valve until antifreeze gets sucked in and starts to pour out the stern drain and a little from the prop, and shut down engine.

Remove keys.

Engine Water Heater

Remove top water hose to water heater off of engine.

Using your mouth blow air thru the hose.

Pour in antifreeze from bottle and blow it thru two or three times until strait antifreeze comes out.

Re-attach heater hose.



Outdrive Gear oil change

Level out drive.

Remove top and then bottom fill and vent screws with a pan under out drive.

Pressurize the top fitting to speed up draining if possible.

After it stops fill about 2 quarts of new outdrive oil from the bottom fitting with a special gear oil pump this way most of the unit gets filled and then install the plugs back in and tighten. Note: the gear oil will go down in the boat once you start to use it in the spring add it in the clear tank located on the engine.

Battery Storage

Raise the out drive back up before towing.

Top off the batteries with Distilled water.

Disconnect batteries buy just rotating the switch to off that is located in the stern battery compartment. Note: It is best once the boat is where you are going to store it, to lower the drive back down to take pressure off of the unit. And is better to take the batteries completely out of the boat, store them on a wood board (not a concrete floor) and overnight charge them at 2amp hours rate once a month over the winter.






Turn off batteries
 
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