When are head studs necessary

[big blue dsl]

As the title implies at what levels are they nessicary ? My engine is an 18:1 engine with stock head bolts and about 30k on it. I'm planning to install a hx40wII and an ata in the grill where is the limit for the stock head gaskets and bolts?

I ask because I have been reading about problems getting them to seal once installed so my dilemma is am I going to be in the overkill with what I plan to run? I just don't want to drag the engine out and tear it apart for the sake of having them of I don't need them.

Is the turbonator's o ring method the best/ only way to get them to seal

Has anybody seen/ used the replacement bolts sold by cometic? In their catalog under part number com-0001 they state arp head bolts 190k psi and the part number works in summit racing but they are 100 more than the studs, called arp and they know nothing about them. Might be a custom set?

Just looking for advice from those that have run these turbos or similar ones
As I don't want to not do them if I need them but don't want to do them twice

 

[BigBearZach]

I just recently put a set of ARP head studs in my truck and if you do go with them you will need to order the 6.2 kit. now what is the limit im not to sure i put them in just to be safe. Now if you put them in it will only take about a day, now for the sealing i had some ac delco engine sealent i put on the threads going in to the water jacket and havent had any water leaks yet. so its no a hard job its just very tiring but well worth it to have that little bit of reassurence

 

[WarWagon]

I used both red and blue locktight on the ARP studs for 2 different engines. (One got red the other blue) No leaks as it is also a thread sealant. Locktight the studs, tightened them into the block, then gasket and head.
I have had the heads off 3-4 times on one engine so the studs have paid for themselves. If it was going to leak it would have on my engine with the beating I give it. 70K and 3 years on one, 30K 2 years on the other.

Lots of people appear to be running 18 PSI on larger turbo's with stock compression and bolts.

IMO there is no kill like overkill. Turbonator's o ring method is just that. Thread sealer or locktight will do the job just making sure the studs are tight into the block.

 

[tanman_2006]

The Cometic bolt are better quality than OEM, I know of 2 engines that are running them. Once again not reusable but they hold according to one guy I have talked to. He doesnt run stock 6.5's either.

Personally if they are going to be nearly the same price I will go with studs but I figure if I put either on I wont be pulling the heads unless something BAD happens.

Also, IMO there are only 2 reasons to install studs on any engine. Its out and convienent or it blew a gasket. If its holding the way it is dont mess with a good thing.

 

[big blue dsl]

Kinda figured that if I kept it at or below 20 psi it would be fine especially with the lower compression

 

[tanman_2006]

I dont see why not. I've ran 20psi on stock 200K mile engines, yes at a risk, and they still run fine. Plan to add an ATT and see how long they hold before I R&R the engine.

 

[WarWagon]

Kinda figured that if I kept it at or below 20 psi it would be fine especially with the lower compression

Depends on the turbo and backpressure. 20 PSI on the factory turbo is asking for trouble where the larger turbo's is isn't.

 

[big blue dsl]

I'm going to go with the hx40wII as it seems it will have the best of both worlds for me better mid range towing while retaining in town quick spooling

 

[6.5L]

I have run 22psi through a GM3 and it didn't shit a head gasket. Have run 21 psi through the ATT with no head gasket issues. Both on stock compression. With lowered I am sure you would be fine up through 25psi.